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Yes. I intended to get a 4 stroke for my next boat but after reading up on the direct injection and control module on the Etec, I decided it should be as good or better. It's lighter, supposed to have more torque than a 4-stroke and has similar fuel efficiency too. I primarily fish for Walleye and Smallmouth now because of where I live but you name it and I've fished for it at one time or another. I make trips to NE Ontario once every few years for Walleye, Bass, Pike and Lake Trout. I go to Western Michigan to target Steelhead about as often. I'm planning to drive a couple hours West of me to fish Lake Norfork for Stipers next month. When I lived on the Little Red River (7 years) I took up fly fishing for Brown and Rainbow Trout. I live on a 20 acre lake now that has a ton of Crappie and Largemouth. When I vacation in Florida it's all about Snook and Redfish.

When I moved over to NE Arkansas I had to sell my old Bass Tracker with a 50hp propped motor because there's really no lakes to speak of nearby. I'm within 20 minutes of 4 great rivers though, Spring, Current, Eleven Point and Black. I've been doing what I can on them with my propped 15hp on a 1436 John boat. Not something I ever wanted to take people out on though. I've had my eye on the Blazer SS boats with a jet drive and finally pulled the trigger on one last night. It's an 1856 with an Evinrude Etec 60/40. Hugely popular boat around here, made a little north in Ellington, Missouri. Most people have them rigged out to party on the river, with bimini tops and stuff, but this one is designed primarily for fishing with casting decks and a rod box.

2 1/2 turns should work out fine. i'd rather them run rich than lean any day !.

That's normal to have to rotate it to line up the gears so it will shift.

Hunting season is over for me.....Finally got all the mess with the boat trailer taken care of.kansa does not tag,title boat trailers under 2500 lbs. so I never did it,well to register in La. Have to do both boat and trailer.Well I had to make a trip to Livonia police department to have chief inspect.I am now legal,so will be getting boat ready,to go after catfish with Rod & Reel and Yo Yo's,only have one pack of catfish left in freezer.Will try to stock freezer with about 100 before the Hot Hot weather of summer gets here.

I'd like see a close up view of the cutters sharpened by a grinder ...... I'm still dead set on free hand filling .... I don't see how one could get the gullet/hook right with a rotary disk ... I'd be all in if it works good .... And i deal mostly with green hard woods ......... Never had to touch my chain for a couple days of sawing, where as most around my area do.. and ask me what i do to keep a sharp edge ... One thing is, saw high with your good chain, and low stump with your back up worn chain... There's alot of old trees with grown in fence/steeples..... My last load was a bodark..... That type is hard on a chain cutter

Different brands have different numbers on the same size jet. The chart took a little confusion out of it when jetting for mods done to the machine.

I use to have the jet chart showing all the brands and which numbers equaled out to be the same size. I might have to try to find that again, it was kind of handy.

I lived in Roswell for a while in the early '80s. Spent quite a few weekends up in the canyon between Cloudcroft and Alamogordo rock climbing. On the other side of Cloudcroft in the foothills is a fast stretch of river where we used to camp and throw parties. The white water rapids there are so fast we used to ride them down on our backs while treading water just often enough to bob our heads up for short breaths of air. NM is gobs of fun in the summer!

Well the Duels were a lot better racing last night. Truck race is starting @7:30 should be exciting! But what about the 2020 Cup series Rookie class? It's going to be saying something to be rookie of the year this year. Christopher Bell Cole Custer John Hunter Nemechek Brennan Poole Tyler Reddick Quin Hoff All I can say is Wow, and wheres the list of retired drivers?

Cold again tonight

The OEM jets are usually in better condition than the carb casting is on most cleaning jobs anyway.... I never swap an OEM jet out if I can get them clean. Same goes for float valves, a clean OEM valve in good reconditioned condition is better than any new non-OEM valve, Shindy included. But if I gotta swap brass into a Keihin carb for any reason its either OEM or Shindy parts that go back in 'em. The rest of the kits on the market are useless china garbage. There are a lot of Shindy fakes for sale out there too.... its not illegal if/when a chinaman robs ya. But its your own fault when they do. :-)

@brantley, there ARE shindy fake kits being sold as the real kits on ebay and the web, some of these kits are made in china !. if it does not say '' made in japan '' on the package ?, i wont trust it !.

nah, i wont say every shindy kit is fool proof ?, i'm sure there will be a dud in one or two ?..lol. i just know, unless its a shindy fake kit ?, i have not had any issues with them in all my builds. its all good bro :-).

I've already got it on but I'll update you when I get it running. Float vent hose cracked. Also need to get an adjuster tool so I don't burn my fingers with the 1/4in socket and screwdriver bit. It's passed my return time, but I'll keep your words in mind, others have had 0 problems it'll be interesting to hear feedback.

I figured i would chime in on this since I just concurred a two year issue by getting a new carb. You can find the recently active thread on the old forum. What i learned: start with an OEM carb without any rebuild aftermarket parts. If you need new jets go with Kehin or Honda......*DO NOT USE AFTERMARKET*. My issue was lean condition at all throttle positions, running hot and backfiring too much. The culprit ended up being the carb and specifically the pilot jet. After talking with the two lead mechanics at Brookhaven Honda I learned that shindy and all other aftermarket jets are notorious for being too small and yielding lean results. Anyway, my encouragement to you @F250 guy buy OEM honda parts for your carb rebuild.

Got the pressure gauge plumbed up. Fit like it was made to go there. Just enough room to swing the 90 fitting and the gauge. Searched the net and found the specs for this Troy Built TB27LS and it says 3200 psi. It is dead heading ( stroked out ) at 2550 psi. Going leave it there till I find a log it won’t crack. cracked a few oak chunks and if never even went past 1,000 psi.

Hey guys so I need some help on a repair. Have not ever done much major repair work as I am not super mechanical but im thinking this shouldn't be too hard hopefully. I have a 07 rancher 420 4x4 manual ! and my dog chewed up the boot that covers where the brake wires (i think ) come into the left handle bar. Ive linked the part below. I can't seem to figure out how to take this apart to replace the boot and im a little worried about screwing with the brakes too much because having a limited knowledge and messing the brakes up could turn out bad. Has anyone replaced this and can give me some insight or have a video of how to break it down and put it back together? Thanks for any help https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/53177-HN5-M40

Found it. 3/16 drill bit, was looking for a bolt in my toolbox. Tested size with a heat shrink tubing kit, I don't have a bit Gage here at my house. I feel happy, like an idiot, very sorry for possibly bothering anybody. Thanks JD.

I'm on unemployment and 68.00 a week with my phone due next week, And they had 2 different sizes I'm assuming 7.62 will work I didn't get it cause I didn't have my phone to do the conversion chart. I'm stretched for $$ at this point for the month, lot of other stuff personally going on with family matters that are stressful. I'm not overthinking

There should be plenty of room to slide the cable off of the lever once it's rotated. It should be easier than trying to remove it from the rear of the motor to get enough slack in the cable. The only thing tricky would be the return spring for the brake lever if it's not broke already. A picture of that before removal should help put it back together though.

I would just remove the brake pivot bolt and you can then move the levers enough to slide the cables off. Then it's just slide the cables out of the bracket and replace the boot.

i see you found us ?, you should post in new member area , so we know more about ya. as for the boot repalcement ?, you will need to remove the brake cable, reverse cable from the levers, then slide them out of the rubber boot. you may find it easier to do this by unhooking these from the rear brake panel, as well as the revers lever at back, lower engine. once these are unhooked ?, it will be easier to pull the cables out of the boot at the bars .

no, you do not need to pull the whole engine to get to the reverse lever. you can just remove the rear engine cover ( drain the oil or raise the back up kinda high ), then you can see whats going on.

07-13 420 brakes bolt right up to a 350 Rancher 07-13 420 brakes bolt onto a 300 IF you grind out the upper a-arm to take the bigger upper ball joint. PITA, and with 420 components costing what they do now, better off with a @SuperATV conversion. 05-11 Foreman, 05-14 Rubicon, and 06-current Rincon brakes are all the same, and bolt onto the 450 Foremans, 01-04 Rubicons, and 03-05 650 Rincons. Pretty much if the ball joints are the same top and bottom, the knuckles and brakes will swap over.

well, i finally got caught back up on RL issues, and now its time to get back on this build !. stick around, i'll be posting progress pics here soon !.

Ahhh Shade , I always say " If God gives you lemons , then make lemon aid " , he placed me in the swamp , don't want to ride on my lawn , so I am going to " send it " ...... but all joking aside , since using a grease / mix , things have be good !!! Maybe if all the atv'ers out there would switch over , there wouldn't be a shortage of seals !!!

update: got my right side cover in today from goober ( thanks bro ! ), also got my swing arm bearings in, now I can get the front and rear swing arms installed. sheshh..i got so many parts to go through, get cleaned, painted, and back on this ole girl. I think waiting on parts is the hardest thing to do with this build !?!..lol.

well, hit another snag on front diff. seems all the diff oil seals are shot !, oil seal that sits inside the part of the knuckle that bolts to the ends of the front diff are worn too bad. as well as the oil seals that are just inside the ends of the front diff, after adding some gear oil, I could see them leaking. which would explain why there was water in the front diff when I tore it down. I could leave it like this, and not replace them ?, but thats not how I roll !. I located all my oil seals on ebay, as these seals are no longer around from honda. these are NOS seals from ebay, will take a few days to get here, in the mean time, I will rip the front diff back down, and have it ready for the new seals. I also had to locate two inner knuckle cv joint seals that install in the knuckle behind the knuckle wheel bearing, got them headed this way. this should ?????...lol, be every seal now replaced with new seals all the way around :-).

ok all you pic perv's, here's some honda porn for ya !. got the engine installed, rear diff installed, rear swing arm installed, done for the night, I'm tired.