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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/03/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Quick update on parts.. I found an image of the blades and from that, I found a site selling all genuine parts for this particular brand of mower. So far I have purchased the following: 8x blades, 4 left swing, 4 right swing, 6 are genuine blades, the other 2 are spurious. A complete toothed pulley to replace the half missing one on the drive shaft side. 4 new blade screws (the allen key heads are worn/damaged on the 4 I have). Warning stickers for curious fingers. A few unusual washers and some spacers. Hopefully will have the parts late next week or early the week after!
  2. 2 points
    Hi, I've been lurking on the site since about December, and on the "old" sit for just about a year now. Bought my first Honda last year, a 1986 TRX350 4x4 for $275 as a non runner. She's running great now, although she smokes a little, which I'll address at some point and tear down the top end and see whats going on in there. I've learned a lot about these old "tanks" from you kind folks. I've been riding and wrenching on quads and dirt bikes since I've been 12, now I'm 44. I've mostly worked on Kawasaki's and Suzuki's but I'm getting a little attached to my tank. Looking forward to possibly contributing, and trying to be a member of the community.
  3. 2 points
    Hello everyone. New member here... Menard LaPue from Nevada. Same guy as at the other forum... I have two honda quads that I work with, mostly looking at rocks. I either 4wd the truck to the mountain, take a quad, a horse, an electric bike, or walk. I often get 200 miles from any real support, including no phones, not becasuse I want to, but because that is where the particular rocks happen to be. How I get there just depends on how rugged and and what the travel restrictions are. My next trip is a get-outa-the-house campout, down southward to warmer weather towards Utah/Arizona. Probably some remote hot spring, quad camping, and finding new rocks. Lately I have been chasing shorelines from a million year old lake, but, whatever... Menard LaPue
  4. 2 points
    Anyone know how to photo shop , looking to change the word Chevy to ES on this cartoon , LOL
  5. 2 points
    Finished cleaning out the cases today and removing the old gaskets. Then I put everything back in and put the two cases together, not bolted in yet though. Next up is to clean out the side covers. Getting close to being done now 🙂
  6. 2 points
    That is the change clutch outer guide, it slides onto the mainshaft before you put the clutch basket and thrust washer on Page 10-17 and 10-18 of Honda Service manual for the 05-11 Foreman 500 -or you just slide it into rear of change clutch basket before you put it on Hope engine is not assembled at this time.....😃 Link to the Foreman 500 manuals, was not sure on your model or year but the Hondas are generally the same for that particular part https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1QvEKFzoIUuZ809T18CwVIDToUJfelcG-
  7. 2 points
    Finished building the frame /cooler /fan assembly , stuck the cover off my 450 on it for kicks and it fits , would like my buddy to build this cover a litle more stylish ---- on the light bar , I think I am going to get rid of them mounting brackets , use some longer bolts with pieces of pipe to mount the light bar to the plates on the bottom of the fan brackets and get that bar right over the top of the rack tube Shade , you are right about WD40 , I sprayed that front fender and rack down with it , wiped it off and it did a nice job cleaning it up
  8. 2 points
    I'm with Shade on that spot. I think given that there's a little lip there where you'll have contact, that some hondabond on that will seal it fine. If you want to do some epoxy there it certainly wouldn't hurt, but I think it would be ok without it.
  9. 2 points
    JB Weld epoxy stick for aluminum or Minute Mend would be my choice , I use JB Weld kind of like generic name
  10. 2 points
    haha..gotta keep him on his toes !!..rofl.
  11. 2 points
    LOL. Shade you sound like Rich450ES on the old foreman board. He walked me through my first rebuild. https://www.hondaforeman.com/threads/oil-cooler-flushing-splitting-cases-and-cleaning.89554/#post-738313 Cantankerous old goats!
  12. 1 point
    This is something like what I'm trying to achieve with the rear axle, but in a slightly different way.
  13. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum! Glad to see you made it over here, Lots of great people here and hands down the best information and subject matter experts for Honda ATVs and lots of other stuff too... See you around!
  14. 1 point
    Nice , you got it clean ...
  15. 1 point
    Turbo , it sure does look like a shaft , but what would turn that shaft ----that pick came from Honda Hoarders in Facebook , even though that looks like a Yamaha that deck is mounted on --- I thought you would like the hitch part
  16. 1 point
    I've been quite busy yesterday and today, I was trying to figure out the rear wheel setup and I mocked up what I think will work for me. As it's only a mock up nothing is permanent. The threaded bar will be replaced with an adjustable short top link with built in bearings, I had to figure out the clearances with the axle I made first. I will also use a top link on the drawbar to adjust the height of the deck front and back, this will attach to the top of the drawbar with a quick release pin and clip. I intend to make the hitch removable also. I spent a good few hours looking for parts last night and found out there are 3 different blade lengths for 4 different decks, a 36, 38, 40 and 42 inch deck. As it turns out, mine is the 38inch deck and it takes the 5.5 inch long blades. I dont have many photos of what I've done so far as I had the phone plugged into the radio most of the time. I have run out of etch primer and running low on steel, so I am going to order the few parts I CAN get, and put the project on hold until i can get the remaining gear to finish the project. I will have to get the engine before I do much more so I can make up brackets to sit it on and work the adjustable top links around it. I will have 3 hitch points for mowing, left, right and centre, depending on the run of the land. I will get some photos tomorrow of the painted items for your interest..
  17. 1 point
    Welcome slowingdown, been doing that for years.lol AKATV does great work. he made mine look like new.😀
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Welcome Salty, your problem should be easy to correct, do as fish seys. lol😃
  20. 1 point
    Welcome to the site , First thing I would check is that the brake lever , the arm where the cables attach , moves back and forth with out sticking and has a spring action to return , the arm gets corrosion on the cam which attaches to the lever and goes thru the brake backing plate , would bet that is where your problem is ----you might be able to spray penetrating oil around where it goes thru the brake backing plate while moving the lever back and forth and get it to free up , might have to start with a hammer to get it to move , it might have to come apart and be cleaned up , which we should be able to walk you thru if needed
  21. 1 point
    @Wheeler, well I was! Worked at a chevy dealership for about 10 years before we got shut down in '09 from all the cuts GM made.
  22. 1 point
    that is a nice looking sap set up, way better than my thrown together contraption. though this is/was my first year of sap production. this was my set up and 2 pans sat on the blocks with the fire underneath was rather rude and crude but got the job done. and I had all the material's on hand for this
  23. 1 point
    never mind on the back tire I'm out in the shop finshing my beer and I just heard a pop, and went and checked the beads in place on that tire now. took the PSI down to 5 on it and that'll be going on the ATV tomorrow. that is if I can get the tube in the front tire
  24. 1 point
    After some consultation with this 350 Guru guy I know them 4 little green o-rings off to the right in the bag are for the valve guides , don't think "you " will be changing them ------ That cracked off case should be ok , I might clean it up good and apply some JB Weld or similar putty , then file and sand it flat , even if the area of repair was a little wider , it wouldn't matter ---- You remind me of my wife , she will plan things to the extreme , I call her wishy washy , LOL -----
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    i think we're gonna put your butt in the time out corner ---->. what do you mean where does all those o-rings go ?..you taking some of fish's stupid pills ?..rofl. as for that busted spot ?, dab some yamabond over and under the gasket when you install it right there, should be fine, seeing how its not on the bottom area.
  27. 1 point
    Reading the updates on what fixed the problem is always a learning experience for me. THANKS for the info !
  28. 1 point
    Update on this; the winch had failed again in February. I had a hunch it was the switch... Removed it and the switch connectors had broken inside. Bought a new switch and its been working fine.
  29. 1 point
    mine was sold as a 'pistol brace' albeit Flux did not apply for, nor do they have "a letter".. I think there's only one manufacturer with one particular platform that does actually have a letter for their PDW model. Flux offers two formats..one they readily acknowledge as an SBR and sell it as such, the other, is a brace and it really comes down to the design of the end of the extension arm..the 'brace' is crafted /shaped in such a way that it implies a forearm wraparound..their SBR is more substantial in side, straight, and obviously meant to be shouldered...the rest of the platform kinda dances with the whole SBR characteristics..ie, the "not a foreend" grip...which like some other manufacturers is just there as a spare mag holder and is not straight up n down , like you would see for an add--on to an AR15pistol type platform. then length of the extendable stock, etc..there are a number of elements that comprise the Feds decision on SBR...and just to avoid confusion from an LEO who might want to detain and hold until ATF can clarify, i simply made a choice that this unit never leaves my property..just keeps things simpler...if we ever get to that zombie-pocyclypse..then it'll be good to have, but as I'm not in the professional protection biz, there's not a real reason to carry it...if I can't solve a personal defense situation on the street with my 7rds of 45 in a compact 1911, then it means I'm having a real bad day anyway.
  30. 1 point
    Com'on Man , you wasn't a kid once , you old floggy !!!! LOL ----- When I was a kid I had a mini bike , it got a new color every time I found a can of paint ----my grandfather and dad use to get mad at me , cause if there was a can of paint laying around , they better lock it up
  31. 1 point
    Well the end of the shift shaft is obviously ruined, and when i bought it the motor was out of the bike, top end off, and the rest of the machine had been spray painted grey, then red, then white, then blue, over the original green. Took me about 4-5 cans of aircraft stripper to get the plastics back to the original green color. Gotta love it when 13 year old kids get handed a wheeler with no supervision.
  32. 1 point
    This morning I got the transmission reinstalled, shift shaft in place, and got the center cases bolted back together Transmission laid out after a good bath in the parts washer. If you lift the gear assemblies out from the bottom you can clean them good while holding the assemblies together. Have to put these two side by side and lower them in at the same time. I little tricky but not bad. Make sure you get the thrust washer on the back of the left cluster, and there's another on top of the top gear on the right cluster (which is a new, updated 1st gear) How you have to pull first gear off the right cluster, to make room to put the idler gearset in place, Then replace first gear Rear shift fork goes straight up into the left cluster, the center and front forks go into the right cluster. Line the pegs up into the slots on the shift drum, and then slide the pin/shaft through the holes. Then I put in a new rear output and reverse seals, cleaned up the rear case covers, and installed the flywheel (shim and cage bearing on first, then the flywheel), reverse lockout, secondary gears (top has a spacer on the back, shim on the front), rear cover, starter gears (shim on the outside of the bottom gear), and then the stator cover. I spent about 20 minutes looking for the stator cover bolts, couldn't find them, so I robbed the ones off another motor that's waiting to be rebuilt. Later I realized that the 2007 bottom end that I did last week had been missing the stator cover when I got it. I had an extra cover and stator on hand, but I hadn't ever had the bolts to hold it on. Going to have to get some (4) 6mmx80 bolts for the rear cover. Odd size that i don't have in my shoebox full of 6mm Honda bolts.
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