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This is our other ORV, a 2011 can-am commander. I got it in early '16. I had to fix several things on it when I got it, most notably and most expensively, I had to replace the gearbox. But it has been a solid machine since I did that and upgraded several thing. Most recently, I built some winter doors to work with the factory accessory pro armor doors. They're gull-wing style and as far as I can tell, unique. Here's a link to the build log for those doors: https://www.commanderforums.org/threads/upper-doors-for-oem-pro-armor-doors.64516/#post-885529 Here's a few pics of the machine:

Hey Outlaws i think i made a major find that early Foreman FCUs will work as a replacement FCU in TRX300 fan kits! Many of you familiar with the old TRX300 fan kits; problem occurs when you get a steady oil light or no oil light. Cant find replacement FCU for the optional kit. My old bad FCU doesn’t turn on the oil light momentarily unless it’s already warmed up I searched by Honda part number for two years and finally found a NOS on fleabay; never found another since. so I started searching by the Omron part number—nobody would ever list by that right? Until last week. That seller listed an FCU by the Omron part number and Honda part number — for late 90s Foreman. so i have a 98 400FW and an 00 450S. Well I swapped the FCU out of all of them and they all worked. my new FCU out of the 450S worked in the 300. My bad 300 FCU worked in my 98 Foreman and 450S but the oil light wouldn’t come on. But they all started but I didn’t do a sensor/fan check the Omron part numbers are different The TRX300 part number is the same as the one on fleabay. Ends in -2B. The one on my Foreman 450S ends in a -2D. i will check more closely on the 400 tomorrow

Hi! I never owned a VTT and I'm a Software Engineer with very basin knowledge in Mechanics. Last autumn, I got 2 Fourtrax (86' and 91') that have been stored for a few years for cheap, and one more for pieces. I already have a tread on another forum but @shadetree really really want me to post my projects here 😉 This thread is for the 86' restoration! Plastics are not in good shape, but I'll use it on my woodland so I don't care.. for now 🙂 First I changed battery, Spark plug, drained old gas / oil than used a bit of Sea Foam in gas tank and Marvel Mystery Oil inside the cylinder to make it start! Now the real fun start, engine doesn't sounds good when running and something continue spinning after stopping it: https://photos.app.goo.gl/7jEyWZkM99TYcr5u5 With the help of @shadetree I confirmed that Timing chain is dead, I can insert adjuster almost completely and after removing the cover, I saw damages caused by the chain probably hitting cover while running And the spinning sounds is caused by the from Centrifugal clutch one way bearing totally dead, and the linings are totally worn too. Hopefully, the Centrifugal clutch and Bearing on my "parts vtt" seems in good shape, si I will use this one. Now I'm waiting for a new chain, gasket, orings, sealing washers this week!

I think they are designed to break after a couple of years so they can sell you more

i just went through this with a brand spanking new washer and dryer set, G.E. , i took them back so fast..the paint ripped off of them in the back of my truck while in the box when i returned them to lowes !..lol. put my old kenmore and maytag back in, changed the belt on the dryer ( kenmore gas dryer )( belt still good, decided to change it anyway ), old set ( 30 yrs maybe ? ), and they are still kicking !!!. todays appliances SUCK !!!!.

No climate change except for natural cycles, thats a scam the royals and their puppet central bankers (who own & control all govcorp corporations on the planet and whom OWN you) are running on ya's, its just another naturally occurring stationary upper level high pressure ridge... a large mid and upper level dome near Alaska. We get about 7 of them setting up over the northeastern pacific per year on average, which causes troughing (trough = a vast area of mid/upper level low pressure, a depression) downstream from that upper high pressure ridge/dome. Cold arctic air is forced to flow around those high pressure domes near/over Alaska as flow becomes blocked because those high speed air streams cannot flow over the high altitude tops of those ridges. We live downstream inside that vast depression, directly in the path of that cold upper level air flowing around the southern edge of that high pressure ridge over the NE Pacific. So are butts are anchored within the middle of a cool, rainy weather pattern right now. Its explanation is as simple as that... and weather patterns are always explained as simple as that. By the way, those routine 7 NE pacific ridges that set up per year are influenced by the natural cycles of the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) and the Arctic Oscillation (AO) both of which are trending and holding Negative right now, which are the reason and direct cause why each of those 7 upper level NE pacific ridges form every year. Since the govcorps provide all of our schooling by "law", we are stuck with a global population of severely uneducated (retarded IMO) peoples who don't understand how things work, all of which are easily fooled by their owners lies. Almost everyone have seen a large rock sitting in the middle of a river or a fast flowing stream before. Flowing water builds up in front of that big rock and rises to flow over it, but if the rock is large enough the flow of water cannot quite reach the top of that rock to flow over it. As a result the bulging head of water is forced to flow around the rock. Flowing water speed must then increase above the speed of the current in that river (flow around is faster than the speed of the current, since there is a large volume of bulged up water behind the rock "dam" escaping) as it flows around each side of that rock. A large depression having an area much larger than the rock itself forms downstream of that rock as a result of water flowing past each side of the rock at a higher velocity (physics fact: as velocity of a mass increases, pressure within that mass decreases) than the current. Downstream of that rock the water is very shallow within an area much wider and much longer than the mass of the rock that caused that depression, because its mass has less pressure than the main river current. Weather patterns are driven by the same physics. It may help many folks to understand the physics by comparing the high speed upper level air flows of earths atmosphere, to large rivers.

these come in handy .... i use the short model ... but yes! still get sliced up pretty good ... lol

I've been using a razor blade. I'm usually bleeding pretty good by the time I get a gasket removed. LOL

Sucks that we toss entire appliances now because they cheapen them on the front end and make them where it's not cost effective to fix them.

I can tell you it 100% does. I physically couldnt run a 14/37 or 14/39. I set the chain on and turned the carrier a full 360. There was no where it would get tight unless i put a half link in. Brand new chain and brand new sprockets. And i know how to cut chains to the proper length. It was not possible. 14/38 fit perfect. 14/36. Same went for the 13 i was running when it was a 416. 13/38 didnt work. 13/39 worked. 13/37 worked. 13/36 did not. I tried every single one of these. I have 13 and 14 fronts. And everything from a 36 to a 41 rear. Tried many of combinations. Getting ready to add a 15 front to my collection.

So this morning it had stopped again. Gave the thermostat a good wack and it came on. Looks like I'm ordering that tonight! Thanks again for the help. Appliances are getting crappier all the time for what we pay for them.

Just a quick update got the new oem cdi box and it started up and ran without holding the start button in

Ok try this. Next time its shut off compressor and fan. And temps are to warm in fridge. Take your palm and smack the thermostat from the under side. If the compressor kicks on right then your t.stat is bad and sticking. I did just confirm with my dad and brother who did the majority of fridge repairs that the kenmore side by side with manual knobs for fridge and freezer would turn fan off if compressor was off(they cycle togeather). So we will be looking more into the t.stat direction or sealed system/compressor getting inefficient.

@Fishfiles I got all this for 118 that including the shipping which was around 25 to 30 bucks I feel like I did good with this but lol. Needs to be cleaned up and when my clutch kit comes in get it all in then install the gear reduction and clutch kit all at once.

Okay so first step is checking what the current bore is? I'll check it out when I get a minute. Cheers shade 🙂

I am the guy that repairs Hondamatics. I am in the Minneapolis area.

I will tell you. Im not scared of alot of things. But making a bearing carrier from scratch is just completely out of my ability. Im thinking they are cut on a cnc? I cant afford that. I could use my machine shop guys lathe. But these things are way out of my wheel house. 100 different angles. They have to fit the bearings in them that the axle spins on. That has to be a specific width. Depth. Circumfrence. And thats only one of the parts to it. I would imagine a block of billet to make one out of would be well out of my price range to just buy one. If i was buying a 1000 and making them to sell that would be a different story. I will never say anything is impossible. But for me to do this task would 100% be.

update: got the motor stabbed into the frame, got the top end together last night, decided to see if it would crank and run ?, i had no idea about the starter ??, or even if the cylinder had enough compression ?, if felt iffy too me ?. anyway, got fresh honda oil, honda oil filter, new c.d.i. installed, temp hooked it all up, put some fuel to my fresh rebuilt carb, choke enrichment valve is new honda as well. turned the key on, tested for spark with spark plug laying on top, got spark ! ( better have ! ), put the spark plug in, put fresh fuel to carb, slid the choke over, turned key back on, hit the start button, within 2 sec's....SHE'S ALIVE !!!.

And that's one reason I've always run Amsoil.

Don't use any china parts. Buy OEM. If you can't afford new OEM, buy used OEM from someone like Powersportsnation that is a reputable used parts seller.

@Fishfiles the circuit board is no longer a part of the wiring problem!! I rang the guy I got the mower from and he gave me a step by step guide of how to wire the key ignition back to the solenoid and battery. First turn of the key and the engine turned over. There is 1 small issue I have to fix tomorrow.. when I turn the key to the "pre start and on" position, the engine wants to start straight away, but you should have to turn the key further clockwise before the engine starts up, then the key should return to the on position. Dad reckons it's a quick fix by just switching a wire on the back of the ignition. Once I get that sorted I will start cleaning the engine, carb etc..I will order a new plug, replace the perished fuel pickup pipe, air filter and change the engine oil too, I think theres a small engine oil leak but it might be easier to find when the engine is running to thin the oil. Once I'm happy with the engine setup I will figure out a way to attach it to the mower deck.

The voltage shouldn't drop below 9 volts when spinning the engine over with the starter , if it goes below 9 volts you have a problem , bad starter , bad battery , bad cables or connections , tight motor ---

very well could be both jeep ?!. starter brushes wear over years ya know ?..lol. and the battery should be showing more than 12 volts ?, BUT !!!, batteries ARE NOT what cranks atvs, cars, trucks..everything ?, ITS CCA that does it ( cold cranking amps ), if the cca is bad ? ( from a bad battery ), it will turn over slow, or not at all..lol.

got my attention on this... can you post pics of the rear carrier ?

Thanks! I will check with them on my next order I like the bonus bucks, every now and then it pays for a gasket or seal that I need

i didn't mean to add more to your plate ...lol ..... mine like to have drove me crazy! but it was my fault, a week battery ended up killing the starter brushes .... a man can't always stay ontop of things...

It's a newer battery, but it did sit for several months without being used. On a 300 with none of the computer crap on them they can usually sit a long time without draining the battery though. I'll try swapping on another starter. Not like I don't have parts bikes everywhere!

AGEED^^ thank goodness Hondas haven't fallen into that category yet.... but finding oem parts for the old ones, sure is getting hard to come by...

Yep thats a cheap part though! Got lucky! Heck we were seeing compressers and sealed system issues in fridges 2 and 3 years old. This is the reason we are closing and im going to work in the hvac field. Appliance repair as a whole is dead. Throw away society.

adjust the clutch. no..thats not normal.

Hey all, I know I've been dark for awhile now, work was killing me. I hadn't touched my 4 wheeler since my last post, well I got busy this week with it. Had to get it running right for a ride next weekend. It was a mosquito spray bike before, so not having a job now and no extra cash to spend, i pulled the piston and head from the parts bike.. barely smoking now, fixed my fan to a toggle switch so I can kill it before getting into some water. I missed riding

nah..... we have a few more small winters due, were just now getting past blackberry winter .... here in the south. the climate mess is a money deal...and thats a fact, there's no such thing as global warming. those who believe in global warming should see >> inconsistent truth ive seen bad, and good years farming, bumper crops, of hay, corn,beans,wheat, alfalfa ... then years when nothing produced .... even roled bean fields and cornstalks as filler ... this is a draw back of the goverment regulating farming methods .. AND, no tilling.... just try and plant your garden without adding broken up top soil, or tilling the ground up.

I soak the gasket with a little carb cleaner —loosens it up. Then i use a plastic decal scraper. I haven’t removed a lotta gaskets but i hate scratching the case and carb metals.

No problem! Glad to help!

Make sure the timing on the throttle is correct. The butterfly valve should just start to open and the throttle slide starts to rise. The adjustment arm is known to break on them and put the throttle timing out of sequence.

dont need to soak anything on the centrifugal clutch if its used ?, new..yes..old..no. same goes for the friction disk in the change clutch. no, do not use loctite on the change clutch bolts, i dont anyway. for removing gaskets ?, i use a utility knife blade, pocket knife, scrape most off, then i use my bench grinder that has a wire wheel on it to remove the remaining gasket, if you do it this way ?, try not to hold it in one spot very long !, you do not want to make the sealing surface uneven !.

No they only came with a blue fan wire i think. Mac or Jeep sent me the instructions. I’ll post em up you’re supposed to remove the alarm unit, remove a plug from the 4p? connector and install the blue fan power wire in that socket. Then install the FCU. Ground the fan to the back of the coil.

Did 300s with fans have a sub wiring harness ?

Another happy Honda owner.....

And I already have a Question, what do you recommend to cleanup my crankcase / cover, remove the old gasket and prepare surface for new one ? Think to use a wood chisel very gently to remove old gasket and I have 600 grit Emery Cloth but I'm pretty sure it's a band idea to use that 🙂 So what do you recommend?

Here is the Centrifugal clutch from my "parts vtt". On the side by side picture, the old one is on the left and the "new old one" on the right. Arms are worn too but it seems impossible to find Aftermarket so I hope it will do the job

rocky mountain atv has just as good prices, they will ( or used to ? ) price match partzilla. plus they have a lower price limit to get free shipping, and you earn bonus bucks on current purchases to use towards the next purchase.

I've learned that lesson before. The dangers of drinking and internet shopping... the quad boss kit even came with a sleeve for the pinion incase it was worn. Mine was so this kit is going to do a much better job. Have the pinion gear getting machined to fit the sleeve and I'll finally be ready to put it all back together

Last few days I’ve been fiddling around with wiring and plastics, mocking things up to appreciate my progress, noticing something and stripping down again. Did all the ball joints, washed the plastics, tried my hand at drilling out broken bolts then using a reverse thread extractor. I think I’ve been successful 1 out of the 5 times I’ve used extractors. Break them all the time. Not sure what I’m doing wrong. Wired in the front led pods to the rear tail light. I’ll get pics of that. Been working too fast, forgetting to take pics. was too lazy to go to the garage to borrow a wrench for the rear axle nuts, I used something I bet no one here has done, a c-clamp! Well, The last piece of the puzzle arrived in the mail today, the disc brake conversion kit. Time to get to work and finish up this beast!!!!!!!!!!!

Beautiful morning here, we have had a few days of awesome weather here, snow is going quick, I'll be back in the Bush on the quad in no time......