Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/13/2021 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Hello everyone, Just recently got a Honda Foreman 450es, and discovered this site when I was looking at repairing the screen. Saw that AKATV does great work with the screen repairs so would like to get in contact with him. Looks like there is great info on this forum. Thanks for the add.
  2. 3 points
    Nice thread! Gives us newbies something to see and get inspired by!
  3. 3 points
    If anyone has a long driveway or road and has to take your garbage cans to the end of it you need this.
  4. 3 points
    The exact amount of factory lean they come right out of the box. Not 100% safe or perfect. But they want it that way so they dont last forever.
  5. 2 points
    Figured I'd change the plug out, it did come with 10 extra, how's the color look to everyone.
  6. 2 points
    I wanted to give a shout out to all and see if anyone has a trick to removing the red kill switch button I need to swap one out and tried for a minute or two to pry under it while poking/prying up in the small hole in bottom of button I seemed to think it just snapped on the switch stub over a small plastic bump that slips into a hole in button Felt like I was going to break it, so l left it for the time being
  7. 2 points
    @retro I will try this tomorrow, i just got done driving around, put another 5 miles on it with my son in the fields. Shifted great the whole time even stopped and shut the machine off a handful of time to build snowmen. I will let you know what I get when I do it. @Fishfiles glad to help I think #1, #2, I feel #3 was a big help, #4 I will reconnect tomorrow and see how it goes, #5 I did do a light sand on the cable ends and greased them as well, #6 always @retro again, I was getting to the point were I was going to drop it off at the dealer.
  8. 2 points
    The Pioneer of RAP:
  9. 2 points
    Here are a few more DIY mods : 1992 TRX300FW Southern Blue nicknamed ( Soc Ra Blue = Blue Balls ) 86 BigRed cam , chain and sprocket 88 exhaust pipe , High Performance muffler ported head , Wiseco 10.5/1 piston EBC clutch kit , 54% reduction Warn 424 1st gen kick out SuperATV disc brake conversion front , 250 Fourtrax master cylinder wheel spacers , 2" rear 1" front stick stoppers 2 cone shims added to front diff for traction hub paddles and longer wheel studs aluminum slots , 27 Outlaws floor boards , snorkeled 5 led lights = two rear , two front , one bar hand and foot shifter ( after video ) 3 inch swing arm stretch , rear brake delete rear 420 1st gen front shocks , 2 inch lift rear reverse lock out by-pass 250 Fourtrax front brake lever with adjustable cable end K+N air filter front and rear diff , transfer case all drilled , tap and run grease oil cooler in stock/option location 1000 watt 4 speaker sound , custom speaker mounts , water proof amp box Imitation Yeti with stainless turn bucket hold downs drink holder Super Winch , KFI solenoid dry box , machette holder Garmin GPS mount rear view mirror to monitor tail gaters LOL
  10. 2 points
    Hi jd450es Welcome to the forum! You are in the right place for keeping your 450ES in top running shape, don't forget to download the service manual here if you have not already https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/15eWwngQ5SdlsIfbgpm5ZJWJYBYx3vJ7s I can get your speedometer taken care of for sure, just let me know what you have going on and we can take it form there I will send you my contact info as well Talk with you soon AKATV
  11. 2 points
    Jemmons 467 , you take that garbage can hitch to the next level , and you can switch to a drop down or raise up trailer hitch or hook with the pull of a pin , weld a 1 1/4 inch receiver tube to the tongue of the hitch
  12. 2 points
    I could think of a few reason why Jeremy's ES just started shifting again , guess it would be impossible to single one out now , 1) the re-cleaning and greasing of the electrical connectors and controller 2) the moving around of wiring while cleaning all the plugs 3) the controller being put by the heater 4) the disconnecting of the winch cables 5) moving the battery terminals around while disconnecting the winch 6) coincidence
  13. 2 points
    This has been the best ES troubleshooting thread I think I ever read , hoping it turns out well ....
  14. 2 points
    Ok, I just opened the fuse box on my '00 Rancher 350 ES, started the cold motor (oil temp = 30 degrees F) and removed the 30 amp shift motor fuse. I switched my multimeter mode to Amps and set the Min/Max feature to capture Max current draw, then held the meter leads onto the two 30a motor fuse sockets and began to shift up/down through the gears using the buttons on the handlebar while the cold motor was idling. I shifted up & down several times all the way to 5th gear and back to reverse & neutral, perhaps a dozen iterations or so.... as you can see in the photo below the Maximum current the cold shift motor consumed was 5.992 Amps after a dozen or so shift cycles/iterations. The minimum current draw was 5.668 amps (occurred on the first upshift from neutral to 1st gear). The '00-'06 Rancher 350 shift motor is identical to the '98-'04 450 shift motors (all components the same), they just have different nose castings for attachment to their respective front engine covers, so their measured current consumption should be the same. My Rancher ES (and entire electrical system) was thoroughly prepped three years ago using NLGI #2 synthetic grease as per my ES preps tutorial and was reopened/inspected a year later so that I could gauge its effectiveness and condition after its first full year in service. So my 5.992 amps max current consumption should be considered to be a legitimate and ideal result. If your shift motor draws more than 10% more current than mine does, it should be replaced with a new OEM and prepped before installation. Excessive shift motor current consumption overstresses and can fry an ECM.... as listed in my tutorial, reducing friction to minimize current requirements is one of the main reasons why thorough ES preps are so important. Let us know what you learn about yours...
  15. 2 points
    ^^^ I agree with the experts above ^^^ Perfect factory tune.
  16. 2 points
    Air flow blockage might have some factor to it , the main reason to relocate the cooler is it gets clogged up with mud in front the engine and the fan spends a lot of time under the water The water keeps the engine cooler , but is a double edge sword from what I have read , if the motor is hot and you dunk it under , there is a quick change of temp and not good for the jug --- but , you got to pay to play ---- God gave me water so I am drinking the lemon-aid
  17. 2 points
    I got the center kick stand where it works , solid and the rear tire is an inch off the ground ( hard to see in that pic ) , so now it can be run on the kick stand , going to do one or the other , first cut off that corner of the plate under the frame , then bead blast the kick stand and paint it or just get a new one , they are pretty cheap about $15 with shipping , China special , LOL
  18. 2 points
    Look what’s here..... been watching more YouTube. For my bumper & racks I’m thinking rustoleum semi gloss mixed 3 parts paint, 1 part acetone, & lil shot hardener.. things are gonna happen while I’m home next 7 days!!
  19. 2 points
    Hi Pip, I don't know if you have discount tool places like Harbor Freight in the UK, but I have a cheap fuel pump pressure gauge I bought from them years ago for about $10.https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-62637.html I also thought my fuel pump on my 350 might be over pressuring the carb. I put a temporary "T" in between the pump and the carb and checked it. It was perfect. After much trial and error, I narrowed it down to the choke enrichment plunger. I had replaced the seal on it with one from my K&L carb kit, so I figured I was good. Turns out that the rubber seal at the bottom around the little pin was hardened and shrunk. I bit the bullet and bought the new OEM plunger assy and my carb problems were solved immediately. Do not underestimate the effect of an old plunger especially at idle. I would buy or borrow a fuel pump gauge instead of a Chinese fuel pump...
  20. 2 points
    Wilson and retro-Thanks! I was kind of trying to do that, but wasn't sure if there was kind of a hard plastic ramp on the stub and I needed pry the button over it or if it was different- I will take another poke at it I had a cracked left switch assembly parts unit that was in good shape otherwise, so I am going to swap the kill buttons out I will keep an eye out for one for you, if you still need a button
  21. 2 points
    Ok , I figured it out now ---- Shade' says my bumper on my red 95 300 up there ^^^ is blocking too much air with that bumper all closed off and I ought to put some openings for flow , might get my boy to plasma cut some slots in the center alum. checker plate section ---- but , I don't think I need them slots , I am running no inner fenders and I am in the process of re-re-rebuilding that 300 and this time round it has a double oil cooler/fan relocated to the front rack and a second fan on the engine ---- I need to finish that one up , been lazy lately
  22. 2 points
    thats was suppose to be @Fishfiles
  23. 2 points
    Hi James , you should have started a thread of your own , you still can , I am sure we can swop these couple of post to the new thread --- first thing I would do is check the fuses for power with a test light , then I would check electrical connection plugs for corrosion at the pins and sockets and check wiring for damaged spots from mice or melting
  24. 2 points
    Was back at hunting camp last weekend. Son and son-in-law were trapping beaver. I brushed a half mile of trail and did some carpentry work. Rode the wheeler and did more exploring. Headed back up tomorrow for 3 days of riding and ice fishing. Got a cell booster and had to make a temporary antenna mast.🙄
  25. 1 point
    Something seems wrong, I have a 2000 Foreman with 2100 miles and it starts right up even on the coldest days. You can intimidate an Outlander as long as you turn into them right off the line and keep pushing them into the woods.
  26. 1 point
    The rest of the story : Wilson Phillips The group is also known for being the offspring of prominent musicians; the Wilsons are the daughters of Brian Wilson of The Beach Boys and Marilyn Rovell of The Honeys, while Phillips is the daughter of John and Michelle Phillips of The Mamas & the Papas. Wilson Phillips released their debut album, Wilson Phillips, in 1990.
  27. 1 point
    ??? Both kick stands still work at this time , you can use one or the other , they both fold up out the way?? China parts is about all you can get for these bikes , so call me 88 my guy Karl got about 40 old bikes , had some nice ones , all very old and rustic and tires rotted off , $40-50 each , I was the first one to have a shot at the trailer load , some have tanks on them , lights , didn't see anything caught my eye , before I left 15 were sold , one guy bought 10
  28. 1 point
    The pics and linked thread is a shackle mount I made for giving an easy place on the front to hook to when using a snatch block, etc.:
  29. 1 point
    Hi Teufelsschlussel, Have you made any progess on this rebuild? I am in the proccess myselff of trying to salvage a rubicon with a bad hondamatic. Any updates would be appreciated. Thanks,
  30. 1 point
    Don't need a new ECM then huh. 🙂 Congrats man, I feel like you about to win!
  31. 1 point
    Well now the darn thing is shifting and running fine, well felt like it wanted to stall out when turning at slow speed
  32. 1 point
    Looks great to me! Slight black on outter ring, looks tan on electrode, & porcelain white so all looks healthy to me.
  33. 1 point
    Ok holy crap, so I went through every and I mean every connector I could find and cleaned them out, even if it didn't have to do with the esp. Used QD electronic cleaner and more dielectric grease. I also took out the ecm and put it against my space heater I have in my garage for a good while. I put everything back in and the wheeler is shifting fine. One thing though, I do not have my winch hooked up to the battery. Now last time, time before last it was acting up I did the same thing, this was when the old winch was in it and it drove fine for a bit. Do you think the winch might have anything to do with the shifting issue? This new one is brand new with all new wiring and relay switch. I think I am going to leave it disconnected for awhile and ride to see if it might be that or just coincidence. As always thank you all for the help
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    A dusting of snow yesterday temps are staying just around freezing. And it looks like its trying to snow again this morning
  36. 1 point
    no, i don't guess they would do any harm, just caught my eye is all... nothing wrong with extra protection.
  37. 1 point
    check this out, retro, some idiot put a hose clamp on my 97 before i got it, that just bothered me too much, so it had to go, thankfully that was the only issue it had when i got, well that and the font brakes, but she's been very faithful, no issues ..
  38. 1 point
    Jeremy , after conversing with you last night in chat you seem like a nice guy , thank you for your service again , you remind me of me , LOL I feel like trying to help you out some more , what's about you pay shipping via pay-pal before I send it , if it fixes your problem , then send me $40 for a couple of cases of Coors Lite Long Necks as I know your a beer guy also , LOL , if it doesn't fix your problem ship it back to me , for two reasons , it might not work for you as it wasn't your problem but might work for someone else , and it would prevent you from saying it didn't work and just keep it , not that I think you would do that , just protecting myself as I don't really know you ----- Retro has kind of scared me that it could be burnt up as soon as it is plugged in , shoot , I don't even know if it works and have no way to put it on a atv and test it ----- I do have a coupe of 450s , neither are ES , but I have seen the wiring harness rub on the bottom side of the frame under the seat area where the harness goes from the running on top the frame to the bottom of the frame on a sharp edge , it was hard to find that one , it would blow the fuse as soon as I engaged 4wd when I was still running the electric front diff , even though I doubt any of those wires would have an affect on the ES circuit would be in that area , just makes me think you could have a wiring problem , have seen some crazy things with wires , some times the wires will corrode inside of the outer covering and look good Maybe try the CDI oven baking method on your controller , it might have dampness inside
  39. 1 point
    thank you both! , retro that pic was just what i needed to see (saved) i looked and looked for a video, even talked to a few .... no one ever had even thought about that switch except the joke about having in it the off position .. and trying to start the bike... lol.
  40. 1 point
    You're welcome, hollar if I can help ya!
  41. 1 point
    When I tested it with the battery it would shift gears. I wouldn't want to put you out, plus I'd hate for it to get lost in the mail. Fish said he'd sell me one plus I have another guy that is getting back to me tomorrow. Thank you though.
  42. 1 point
    I'm not into the middle of that one, lol, but might i point out, most of your builds are reduction (low gear) so there's not going to be too much ram air to help cooling. i believe that's why the oil coolers, and fan relocates ?? i like the look of the checker plate just as is.
  43. 1 point
    I was thinking I might have been the selector switch itself but it tested fine.
  44. 1 point
    Take the rubber band retainer off of the outer boot and slide it back toward the center of the shaft Slide the rubber boot back toward the center of the shaft. Pull the old cup seal off of the shaft by pulling it out of its retainer groove and slide it over the splines. Clean all parts thoroughly with solvent and dry them completely. Slide the new cup seal over the splines and push it back toward the center of the shaft until it snaps into its retainer groove just beyond the splines. Coat the splines and the cup seal with MOS2 grease and pack a liberal amount of MOS2 grease in the depressed area between the lips of the cup seals. Slide the clean rubber boot back over the installed cup seal until it snaps into place in its' retainer groove. Roll the rubber band over the groove in the rubber boot carefully until the rubber band snaps into its groove around the circumference of the rubber boot. Use a finger to grease the female splines inside the pinion joint of the front diff and coat the smooth pinion joint bore with MOS2 grease. Use a finger to coat the splines & o-ring on the output shaft on the motor and the splines on the motor end of the shaft. Insert the driveshaft carefully into the pinion joint of the front diff. You'll need to push the shaft in straight while keeping it centered up with the pinion joint. Wiggle the shaft (and watch) as you push the shaft in to insure that the lip on the cup seal does not get snagged on the edge of the chamfer on the pinion joint bore and get turned inside out. Slide the front diff back toward the motor and stab the driveshaft onto the output shaft splines. Make sure the driveshaft is slid all the way onto the output shaft. The o-ring seal on the output shaft should not be visible when you are done. Put the front diff mounting bolts back in and tighten them up. Celebrate. 🙂
  45. 1 point
    Well, so far so good.Top end rebuilt and flushed. Valves adjusted. Compression checked at about 85 psi. Oil confirmed being pumped 'upstairs' and through the valve cover galley. Ran 3 carb-bowls full of fuel, then changed oil and filter. No metal found in filter upon examination. Put everything back together and filled with oil and new filter. Ran her around my yard for about 15-20 minutes. She sounds fine. Good power. Revs up normal. Nothing unusual. Tomorrow I plan on taking her to camp and running her for an hour or so, then change the oil and filter again and let her go. Fingers crossed. If my top-end rebuild and flush doesn't work, what do you think will be the first signs? Compression loss? Power loss? Noisy bottom end? Noisy top end? Hard shifting?
  46. 1 point
    I had to do this installing a satellite on a metal roof in the winter.... We used a big payloader to hold the ladder in place laying on the metal roof. OH&S approved back here....🤣🤣👍
  47. 1 point
    @Wheeler i figured I'd bump your thread up for the newer members, a couple bumpers are posted on the 1st page, but here's most all i have, @firsttimer built a homemade deal, i really like, but i can't locate the pic, but you also mentioned, your rear window could get busted out, so some of these might not work on those long camping trips y'all take ?? anyways here are deferent types some homemade, some not. credit goes to @Mac102004 @toodeep and downunder << (who's not in the forums yet) , Mac told me about the brute tube which is the last pic, toodeep posted is the 1st pic, and downunder is 3rd to that last pic. my favorite is the 4th pic, no idea who makes it, and I've never been able to locate ... that one or the brute bumper. (which i also like)
  48. 1 point
    2000 TRX450S 500 jug and custom piston 400 head HMF muffler Dyna-Jet carb kit snorkel 424 kick out double relocated oil cooler double fans extended swing arm 6 led lights , 7 inch head light lift winch 1000 w 4 speaker sound system wheel spacers 29.5 Outlaws disc conversion front and rear hydraulic brake conversion rear floor boards stick stoppers EBC clutch kit 34.5% reduction reverse lock out by-pass suicide hand shifter dual batteries Garmin Montana quick snap mount drink holder machette holder receiver hitch ( not shown in this pic)
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
×
×
  • Create New...