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Made it home from our trip, don't think we had temps above 53 the whole time gone. We drove 2961 miles from the time we left and arrived home on the firdt day of spring to blustery 34 degrees. The things we saw were amazing and even though temps were cool had a great time. My wife is standing at the base of the one tree, pretty large old growth trees. O ft. at sea level to a 6870 ft. pass in Montana on the way home. Was great to go and as always time goes waaaaay too fast.

Just spent the day taking down a 20x32 above ground pool so I am too tired to read the whole thread haha. Yes I did figure out me electrical issue for shifting. It ended up being the large fuse right off the battery, it would get hot, expand and not work. I replaced the fuse and it has been shifting great since. Currently sitting on jackstands due to a flat but still shifts haha.

Calling @freebo86 , How did that test ride go yesterday ?

i believe @Jemmons467 but it was a es shifting problem, but still electrical, looks to me like it would act up hot or cold if it was a fuse, or fuse holder, he ended up getting it fixed, but to test before the repair he pulled the fuse and put in back in, and it started shifting again, turns out it was a bad fuse holder.

Thanks for the talk on this. I really appreciate it. I've taken a little break while I wait for a few seals to come in. But I will check the drum and shoes more closely. The reason I took it out was to replace the ES gear switch and the clutch adjustment screw was seized in the case. The clutch never slipped, but I couldn't adjust it. I haven't had it that long, but the motor and trans were shifting well. I was trouble-shooting the ES and determined at least one problem was the gear position switch. To test the transmission I installed a "Momentary-on / off / Monetary-on" 30amp/12V toggle on the handlebars that has a cross-over wired in to allow reverse polarity between the up position and the down position. Basically, I unplugged the motor and connected the toggle switch and drove it all over shifting it up and down with the toggle. It rode great. So I was feeling pretty confident about big moving parts... 🙂

You will be remembered come Father's Day.

Hope he's not stranded in the woods. Or maybe he impressed that lady friend with his badass 4 wheeler and, well, otherwise engaged this morning 😆

Ol Mistah Jingles like to chew dem wires.

Yeah, if something needs wrenched on or lifted or paid for...

so it's back up running again, good deal.

From what I been reading on the situation of icing , it is not so much how extreme cold the temp is , it is the combination of cold with high humidity which makes it occur

junk yards here will take almost any metal except copper, and catalytic converters I'm the curious type i would have taken it apart, would havent taken much time just see where the freeze was swopping into the oil, or vice verse, i would say a blown head gasket, but i don't know those engines very well, just that most times when a iron block with aluminum heads, have a habit of popping gaskets when over heated. over, and over again. (been there) could have also been the antifreeze mixing with the oil that helped cause the failure being the coolant system is normally pressurized, so it's more likely freeze got in the oil before oil got in the coolant system. even after breaking it down, could have slapped the heads back on, and they would still take for a core, but it wouldn't really matter, it's a junk engine now.

If you have the time and place, tearing down the old engine with the boys might be some valuable time spent with them. I don't know any kid that doesn't enjoy tearing something apart.

It came apart. The outboard end was not removable. Changed both boots and slammed it back together.

its heated treated from the factory, there's another post in the forums asking about the same question, (shadetree answered it) it would be hard to slip an es model, but not a foot shift, if your running wet clutch approved oil, your clutch shouldnt slip unless it's needs adjusting, but you said it's not slipping, i must have missed why the engine was broken into ... what shape was the motor in when you drained it, have any odd smell ?

Bit of a long winded article: https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraft-building/BuilderResources/while-youre-building/building-articles/metal/rivet-gun-notes-and-riveting-tips "Selecting Your Rivet Gun If you don't already own a suitable rivet gun and are in the market for one, check around with other builders before you buy. Be sure you get the type of gun you need. Don't goof and be fooled into buying an air hammer or air chisel just because the price is enticing. Although the thing might look like a rivet gun, and sound much like one, too, a rivet gun it ain't. The problem with an air hammer is that it simply hits too hard and too fast. If you try using it as a rivet gun, you will stand a good chance of denting and damaging the soft aluminum skin around the rivet you are attempting to drive (set). A rivet gun's blows, on the other hand, are typically slower and you can exercise far better trigger control over its impact rate."

I've the motor out on a recently purchased 2002 Rancher 350 (TRX350EF) to replace the gear switch on the rear cover and the clutch adjustment bolt on the front cover. While the motor is on the bench I'd like to replace a few oil seals. The one I'm having trouble with is the rear output shaft seal. I'm using Partzilla and looking at their diagrams. I found the part number for the front output shaft seal. Looking for the rear seal, I'm using the diagram for "rear crankcase cover." I do see the flywheel seal in the rear case and I'm ordering that as well. But, I can't find a part number for the rear seal. Is it on a different diagram or not available? Also, any chance the front and rear output shaft seals are the same and I can just order two of the front seals? I won't yank them out until I have the new ones in hand. The engine otherwise runs fine. Anything I should do while I have the front and rear case covers off? I don't intend to split the main case open or remove the head. I can do that in the future if need be. It only took me about 2-3 hrs to put the motor on the bench and that was an old guy working slow, pausing to drink, and turning the music up. 🙂 Also, I'd like an opinion on the heat-generated discoloration (blue color) on outside of the centrifugal clutch housing. Perhaps this is normal? Please see photo if it attaches.... Many thanks in advance.

This rivet gun is used to install aluminum solid rivets in aircraft structure. With a die in the gun you place it firmly on the head then a bucking bar on the tail. Tap the head and the bucking bar smashes the tail. This fastens sheets of metal together. The gun is adjustable so you can vary the force. More for larger diameter rivets. Less for smaller. I'm an airplane mechanic and started my professional life pounding rivets. I believe an air hammer is not adjustable but has more punch. Never used one because I've always had this. What you have pictured is a blind rivet puller. They can also be pneumatic.

Mistah Jingles was the mouse in the movie The Green Mile ....

Thank you.

Bons temps, mon ami; AaaahhEee!! that IQF is great sometimes they use liquid nitrogen; flash freeze keeps the ice crystals tiny—large crystals from slow freezing bursts the cells makes the meat mushy

Yesterday was a shrimp boil , these shrimp are something different for me , they are Texas deep water brown shrimp , and they came out really good , peeled perfect and great taste , got them for $4.00 a pound , pretty good deal as Louisiana's inshore shrimp season is closed ---- they were IQF'ed which scared me , but my buddy who owns the seafood shop assured me they were good eating as he gave me some samples to try of his boil , he uses these now as his house boiled shrimp as the Bayou LaBatture , Alabama shrimp are hard to get right now Son in Law was in a poker run in his classic car ( 70 Cutlass 442/ 455 clone ) and his crew made a pit stop at the house , so we had about 25 people over , we had hamburgers and some sides , and still had 5 pounds left out of 25 pounds , shrimp salad today , shrimp go a long way unlike crayfish that were $3.75 this week for premiums , maybe after Easter the price on crayfish will get right and we'll boil some

I think you are looking for the #9 seal in this pic , the print is title final shaft , #9 91203-HN5-671 OIL SEAL (24X34X5.5)

That's what I call a air hammer , this is what I call a rivet gun

beautiful pics, looks like y'all had a great trip.

It ran out of oil. My son was driving it, he'd get the light then it would go out. My fault for not checking it regularly. I actually think it was rather rapid. I found oil in the coolant so believe a water jacket was breached

Oh yeah, can't forget the loose front left wheel that I thought would be a bad bearing, it's much worse than that. Upper ball joint to knuckle is knackered!

Well, the Grizzly nightmare continues! Brake pads worn through, not just metal to metal but now it's only got one side left - caliper piston onto disc should work, eh?

I agree, that 300 inline is one tough engine, toombs brothers dairy has an 85 ford pickup 2wd lwb 3/4 4 speed, 300, use that truck all the time, never had any bad engine trouble, other than just a water pump, and alternator every now and again, they got in a pinch one day, when a tracter they rake hay with gave out, with storms moving in, they hooked the rake up, and sent on raking hay, no telling how hot the engine got, we were just a field away doing hay ourselves, and they had sopped, and pulled the hood off, lol, and she still runs great to this very day, i drove it a few times myself talk about a solid truck as a person would would want, not a power house, but super dependable! I'd purchase if they ever would choose to put up, but they never will. we had a 63 n series with a gravity flow hydraulic driven auger hopper bed had a 4+2 speed, and a 240 inline 6 industrail ford plant (pic) we sold the gravity hopper bed, and shortened the frame , put a steel flat bed on and used to Pull our goose neck cattle /flat bed trailers for hauling square / round bales / equitment, hay rollers and planters to distant farms, one thing i didn't like was ... i wanted to keep the transmission driven hydraulic pump, to use it to make the truck into a dump bed, but my pop sold it with the hydraulic driven auger hopper bed. that engine with the transmission gearing made a good match. i think .. 65 mph was as fast as it would run. same cab (pic) but ours was white with west coast mirrors, and brown grill. never had a single issue out of it, except turn signal flashers (Wagner) from what i recall, every thing else electrical outside and in the cab worked.

Local Ford dealer tech told me about the Obama cash for clunkers engine destruction program where they drained the oil and then refilled the crankcase with a water based abrasive liquid to kill the engine so it couldn't ever be used for anything much more than a boat anchor. He said the 300 six took the longest by far to die. He said they got tired waiting around so they broomhandled the gas pedal. It still took a long time to lock up. I had one years back and loved that straight 6. Other than it had no flywheel effect at all.

I finally got it split. Didn't need to remove the stator drum (not sure the proper name). I'd be afraid to hit it, seeing it apparently has magnets inside. Was pleased to find it was a correct diagnosis and there was one tooth broke off from the first gear. Now I hope I can get all of this back together next week when my gear set comes in! lol! I'm sure the video above will be an enormous help though.

I read about a similar problem that @retro helped solve; the OP replaced the large fuse and problem hot start stopped

Wilson, depending on what his deductible was on his insurance he may have to pay most of it anyhow. To keep the prices as low as possible many put the deductible at $1000.

Great news John, sounds like you have things under control. Don't be shy, stick around to tell us how the Hondas are doing and if you have any problems. We do have a chat board that we enter into and talk about all sorts of topics. Click on the Chat at the top of the forum home page, located in the menu. Would be glad to see ya there....

Oil looked dark. No metal shavings, checked the filter over too looked good. Replaced it just to be safe. Filled it back up with Rotella again last night.

You should have had a mask on fish......!

i thought, NO i saw a post here in the thread about tuning the carb while the engine was warm, but looks like it's gone, or edited, .now. but i do recall seeing it. due to the fact it would not start hot, but does start fine cold.

never had any issue here ether, i have a stock carb, @Wheeler rides in some super cold temps, never heard him mention any problems with his carb icing on his 300, but he's also not using a stock carb. I'm thinking it might be the fuel or letting the gas tank get low, and water accumulating, then the ice issue happens, i figure that more then the design of the bike, although, I'm not sure which models had / have carb heaters. i reckon the coldest temps riding I've seen is -10 ? just a guess. but you guy see much colder temps, here's it's the heat we deal with.

Where do you live? I don’t need them here. If you’re in the great white north you might, but if not just delete it.

Thanks Retro The weather was great yesterday evening , started off chili 48 , made it up to 65 , took a ride and put 11 miles on it, it is running good Got a vintage looking front headlight suppose to arrive today and the tool tube Thursday Another couple of mods I would like to do is a choke cable on the handle bars and turn that aluminum compartment on the rear rack into a locking storage box

Well , I rode it , wow , it has fast pick up , only took it up to 16 mph and had a lot left , - I am doing a break in and getting used to it , so keeping it slow for now , it is a lot quieter than I expected , getting it started doesn't take much , just a few pedals and pop the clutch , but not in the rock driveway as the tire will slip in rocks , needs to be on the asphalt , turning around in loose rocks is scary ---- I am heading out to ride it again .........

This is not a video but an entire YouTube channel Project Farm A guy in his garage who likes to test things. Products, hacks, "what-if's", engine failure, and much more. His product comparisons carry more weight with me than pretty much anything else when it comes to media. People joke in the comments that they need a "Project Farm Approved" sticker on stuff at the store and that would sell products. I agree. If you have never seen this channel and have a few minutes to look at mechanical or product videos... check him out! Thank you for looking!

going out on a limb, i'd say it jumped time, piston struck valve, valve connected to rocker, rocker attached to push rod to cam, bound up, presto..cracked rocker box.

Lol no. That “this looks ok” was a joke. That was off of a parts bike I bought a couple of weeks ago. Cylinder was rusted and had to hammer the piston out of it. Anyone ever see a rocker box do that? Wonder what caused it?

he was more upset about the laps of his insurance, but the cost from what he described was around $2500 plus.

i figured temps would drop, but i didnt think all the way to 35 last night, looks like a cold weekend, but thankfully no killing freeze yet. temps are just creeping up, now a high of 43, had a long talk with a friend of mine last night about storm damage that affected him, but that's not the issue, his homeowners insurance was canceled due to no payment, because he never got a bill, and had his contact number (cell phone number changed) so the damage which is not much (as he explained) is out of pocket i told him if that's the worst that happened with these storms be thankfull, many people had much more damage, those folks i feel really bad for.

Now you tell me , LOL

Wheeler , I was surprised to read you say you never heard of icing , cause I seen it happen down here in the south , after I read that article that TIM' posted , maybe it is because you'll don't have the high humidity like we do , sometimes we are 100% humidity -- Another icing problem I have is the propane tank regulator for the crayfish burner and heater on the patio freezing up , grill don't ever do it , I would guess cause it is a lower flow , but when the weather is just right , them regulators will turn solid white and shut down

no worries bro, spoilers dont bother me, it's the aggressive racing, crashes, and repairs I'm into. glad to see you back online again.