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Put the the headlight, headlight guard and front fender on. Put the brake cables back on and adjusted the brakes. Cleaned the carb, put the shindy kit in it and installed carb on the engine. Started getting the exhaust hooked up, I'll need to paint the exhaust header and heat shield with high heat paint to try and get it to look as good as the muffler. Started cleaning the gas tank, it is metal and has a little bit of rusty scale in it. What do you guys use to clean gas tanks?

Here's my answer to them;; take away the guns to those that provide security for them. they will be singing a different tune after that....

You did good LedFted, 50:1 mix is an EPA only thing and it's not enough oil.... in Europe the same saw models that are sold here are spec'd for more oil, 32:1 generally. I pay no attention to the EPA, I run 32:1 synthetic oil/gas mixes because 14,000 RPM two-strokes won't survive long term on 50:1 EPA mixes.

I'm not gonna lie, I love my two Outlanders!!!! Since we've had them our riding days are longer, we are less fatigued at the end of the day and for the drive home from the trailhead, and really aren't even sore the next day from all of the mountain maneuvering. Since we've had them (and I'm speaking honestly) they have performed flawlessly. We have been using them as they were intended, running in low range in the steep curvy terrain, using 4 when drive when needed, allowing the engine breaking to do what it is supposed to do when descending and it works unbelievably well. I'm also not going to lie when I say the access to oil filter, and gearbox drain plug and filler cap leave something to be desired. I think the engineering department all need to be kicked in the groin a half a dozen times or so. I tore into my machines the other night and changed all the fluids. Oil, gearbox, and front and rear differentials. Glad to get both of them done. Meant to do it before we went on our first ride. Our 2019 needed it because we bought it new and it hadn't been done yet, our 2016 needed it because I didn't know what shape it was in before I bought it so for my own piece of mind wanted to do it too. Turned out the rear differential was extremely dirty and a little low on fluid. My wifes wasn't too bad. There was no way I was going to pay the local dealership $350+ each to do a full fluid service. I started about 7:00 and climbed into bed at 2:00 in the morning🤯🤪😴 It was a royal pain and hence the "F" for their design to access necessary drain plugs and oil filter. Had to remove a lot of stuff. Glad I won't have to touch the gear box and differentials for at least a couple years. Will have to change oil of course but differentials should be fine. Here's the pile of stuff I had to remove on each machine...yeah not a fan. Good thing the ride is so nice, spent about an hour and a half just removing and installing the plastics. 😬 At least the gear box and differentials are good for a couple years, I should be over it by then.😁 here's a few pics of the mess.

Yeah I think the crank seals might be the culprit. Not sure though. It’s was probably super flooded from all the cranking I’ve done while weeding through the ignition problems. so I kind of want to bar it up and try to put it through some wood to see if cleans up. If she cooks the piston well I have two more to put in it while crank seals are replaced.

Today I put in the rest of the engines mounts, replaced the dry rotted front tire with a tire and wheel I had in stock, replaced the shock boots, changed the wiring harness with one I had in stock and that cleaned up all the connections behind the headlight, installed the rest of the electrical components and battery. I didn't have spark after making all the connections and traced the problem to corrosion at the kill switch so I cleaned that up and now have spark.

Thanks Retro. I am heading out to the shop and see if I can pull some codes now.

I got 200 rounds of this 30-06 from my father-inlaw when he gave this old Winchester model 70 to my wife. Not even sure how old this gun is, anyone have any idea?

Got a haul today! Who needs old cast?

I didnt get much accomplished last weekend but got rained/snowed out from work today and was able to make a little progress. Finished up bearings and seals in the rear end, put everything back together and got it rolling again. Transplant engine is now in the frame and partially bolted in.

In the famous words of Gilda Radnor, nevermind. A fuse looked good but was open. Problem fixed.

Sounds like a gear position switch issue to me. That is what tells the ECU to limit revs in Reverse, and also if the ECU can't tell what gear it's in it goes into limp mode, right? Second the "is the gear indicator working normally" question.