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Just joined and look forward to hearing some positive ideas! Thanks for the invite Jeepwm69!

🤣😅 Oh come on now!!!!!!😁

Found this guy in my basement Saturday morning, right next to a basket of dirty laundry. Luckily the womenfolk were all in bed so they didn't see him. Round pupils so looks like a banded watersnake. I scooped him into a dustpan and put it outside. If Mrs Jeep had seen that thing inside the house she would have either burned the house down or made me call an exterminator to fog the whole house. Good thing she was still asleep!

I had the same leaky float valve problem with my 2000 Rancher three years ago. I fixed mine with a small diameter tapered dremel grinding stone that I twisted by hand inside the brass float valve seat to cut a new seat angle profile. After lightly grinding the brass by hand I polished the brass seat taper with a cotton Q-tip and some buffing compound. The float valve has sealed perfectly ever since.

We have continuity on both b/y and p/g wires. Well it ballgame time so I’m out of here. I appreciate all the effort today. I’ll be back out here Monday morning. Retro you especially have s good Sunday, I appreciate you man.

Y/b to b/g reading is 3.28 Sensor readings counterclockwise 5.40 clockwise 0.13. Very smooth readings no dead spaces noted.

Not sure on mph screen was so cloudy.

Im trying to figure out how its not running on the rev limiter? Unless you did one of those cdi boxes that removes the limiter. Wide open throttle for 2miles would be banging the limiter the whole entire way. I will say from experiance the 400ex motor built right will handle anything. Stock form with out a limiter the valves are floating hard and it wont last very long before your pulling a piston with a valve sticking out of it from the engine. My .02

@retro I have been thinking about the switches in the handlebars as well, when I get back from our little family vacation I'm going to soak the angle sensors and check the switches. I did not take those apart during my first round of cleaning and greasing.

Both readings were 5.01v

I remember now, may be a bit, got to pull the the gas tank back.

Reverse lock out switch test was perfect.

Gear position test, everything tested perfectly. The light blue is actually light blue/white on my connector. Check me out and make sure. When I checked the light blue/white in 5th gear it illuminated.

Shift switches test perfect.

Shift motor test, motor shifts perfectly in both directions.

Fluke , you came to the right spot , we got a bunch of old timers , riding old school Honda round here , that like to try and help a brother out !!!

One of the guys from works car. Had it over 22 years.

Riding an old Honda 2002 Rancher I bought new. I was 50 at the time and had no idea It would last this long or me either!! That's what has brought me to this site for a little help and advice occasionally. Never had any trouble at all I couldn't take care of until recently and closest dealer told me they don't work on any ATV's older than 7 years old. I couldn't believe my ears! What can you do except fix it yourself even if its major......so here I am! Next closest dealer said they would work on it and they are 65 miles away and have a 1+ month waiting list.

Welcome to ATVHonda , what you riding ?

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Welcome to ATVHonda Fluke!

I went to use this Green 96 300 2wd yesterday , to spray roundup , it sat for at least 5 weeks , it did have non ethanal fuel and Sea Foam in the tank , didn't turn the petcock off last time , that was a mistake , it didn't want to start , when I opened the drain screw on the bottom of the carb no fuel came out , after banging on the carb bowl , fuel started coming out , so I figure the float valve was stuck shut , also the choke plunger is still stuck solid , got it running and the rear brake foot lever was sticking and the rear brakes were dragging , had to free that up and after spraying the first 15 gallons of Round Up , I let it sit for a while as I took a break to cool off and when I came back , the carb was over flowing all over the ground , added 1/2 bottle of Sea Foam started it up , ran it hard up and down the street and sprayed another 15 gallons of RoundUp , this time I watched it after turning it off and the carb didn't over flow , turned the petcock off and ran it out of fuel when I parked it ---- moral is you can't let them sit with fuel in the carb , especially when the temps are in the 90s

Sorry I haven't updated in awhile. After extensive wiring checks, ended up sending the PCM back to FS1 and they admitted they didn't program it right. They had it for 2 weeks. Installed again and the shifting problem was fixed. However, I was getting a misfire on #5 cylinder, lean O2 bank faults, and idle was low and erratic. Thought I got the misfire fixed with a plug change. Advice on the F150 forum pointed to possible clogged cats for the idle. The pickup was drivable, in fact used it to tow my cargo trailer with 2500 lbs of wheelers in it. Did well on an 80 mile round trip. Hoped it would clear the cats out but instead the misfire fault came back. More troubleshooting found nothing. The manual said if the injector and plug are good (they are), a misfire with lean O2 symptoms means its a PCM problem. Arragh! FS1 agreed and they have the PCM again. Hopefully, third time is the charm.

The shift switches on the handlebar may have gotten wet too? I have soaked mine with the pressure washer before and I had to blow the switches out with compressed air to get them working again, despite the fact that I disassembled & dielectric greased the switches contacts when I prepped my ES. If its not the shift switches it is likely one of the connectors took on water, or possibly the shift motor took on water.

I seen Alvin live in concert in the 70s , his word fit today's world pretty well