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Brazing rod and flux works great for attaching cable ends to new cable too. If the new cable is galvanized (or stainless steel) the brazing won't stick though. Gotta be clean uncoated steel wire/strands. Sanding the end of the new cable to rough up the surfaces insures the brazing will flow into the cable ends and bond them using less direct heat. Like sweat soldering... same technique, most of the heat from the torch flame should be directed into the cable end part, since the cable loses it's temper if it gets red hot.

Hmmmm !

@retro I’m using a galvanized cable, & lead free solder. Holds up well so far.

I would think either the clutch plates, or someone can correct me if I"m wrong, but if the dot on the shift drum isn't aligned correctly, it will be all outta whack as well..... I'll have to go back thru & see if you got that all aligned with the dot...

Pinched / misaligned clutch plate first thought

I want one >>> Beep Beep !

Great thread Wheeler, great work too!

Hi FredZ, welcome to ATVHonda! We have free service manuals available from the link in the top menu. That thread is here: I don't see a 2018 manual in there, but there is a 2016 manual that should be pretty much the same info as you'd find in a 2018 manual. Here is a shortcut to the 2016 manual: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1QvEKFzoIUuZ809T18CwVIDToUJfelcG- I don't have much experience with your model, but I'll try to help ya until someone comes along.... Basically you need to determine whether the issue is a hydraulic one or an electrical one. I would try to rule out a hydraulic issue first, because it's generally less time-consuming to troubleshoot a hydraulic issue than troubleshoot an electrical fault. So start with the motor oil.... Is the oil level in the motor full? Is the oil and oil filter relatively fresh and clean, and have the oil and filter been changed regularly? Is the motor oil a quality brand, proper viscosity, and does the oil have the required MA or MA2 specification for wet clutches? Does the transmission shift hard (sudden, abnormally hard shift, causing driveline shock or lurching) while upshifting, just before the transmission fails to downshift and the electrical errors out? In other words, do the upshifts become progressively more sudden and abnormally hard as the motor warms to full operating temp? The next time your 500 fails to shift and while the motor is still hot, test the shift solenoid (see the service manual) and unplug the two-wire shift motor connector to inspect the connectors for corrosion in the terminals. Also look for any indication of those connector terminals overheating. They'll be discolored if they've been hot. You can test the shift motor by applying battery voltage to the unplugged motor connector terminals. See the manual for more info. EDIT: DTC 24-1 indicates a shift motor circuit fault. However, insufficient oil pressure or a hydraulic circuit issue may possibly result in the PCM to report a DTC 24-1 fault. Rule out possible hydraulic issues before proceeding with electrical component testing.

Hi shade. I make the cables. Bearings & seals I use Motion Canada (bearing shop). I use black rtv for the gasket. The one I just rebuilt had a seized adjuster, had to clean up bunch of rust & pitting, brake clean inside the cable housing, then oil, anti-size on all threads ect. Snap ring broke & had to buy a snap ring kit. It was in brutal shape, but like new when I shipped it out today.

Bought a new cylinder for $150 haven’t had time to put the engine back in but I got it together

The bolts coming loose might not be very common but I have seen it more than once!

The 300 ones are bringing $$$ now. People are even buying them for other models to convert them to work with a 300.

do you have a source for cables ?, what about any parts for these ?. i used to know where a couple of these were, one for sure still on atv, pretty sure the cable is frozen. the other one was in pieces if my memory serves me correct ?. i think if i could round the parts one up, send it to you, let you rebuild it, pay you some rebuild cash, i could make a good profit from at least one of them. the full one just needs a cable, as i know very well, this is why warn stopped making them.

I found a hand pump at the flea market for $20 , there is a water well capped off under the bricks , so it can be connected and pump water , might do it one day , but no need for it now ---- the bricks were free , from a ringer around the oak tree that died in the yard , I need to drop that dead oak tree , I am scared of it , might paid a professional to drop it

Hi Vintage, Good to see you hanging out with us! Yeah, I'm living out on a deadend private one lane road in the middle of the woods, 1.25 miles from the nearest neighbor who has utilities. I've been 100% off-grid since 2010, bought my remote raw land on purpose so I could retire and live out my remaining years the way I wanted to experience them. It's a wonderful, natural lifestyle I've created for myself. The local community consists of tough, hardship-hardened responsible and co-operative folks and I've made many awesome friends who are every bit as principled and hard-nosed as I am! HaHa... :) Some in my family think I'm nuts for choosing to live out of the usury system, I'm broke and poor but I'm wealthy as ! when it comes to comparing my unlimited freedoms and opportunities against their lives of slavery though. I have discovered and come home to the community I should have been born in, few people can honestly say that about themselves.... I'm buried in work, way behind on projects and preps this year though, so it's the most challenging times now I've ever experienced. With a bit more patience we'll get this thing done!!!!

Another one done & should be getting shipped back to NC tomorrow. She was in really, really rough shape… like new now!

It's not very common but I have seen the bolts work loose on the stator/flywheel and cause this. Where your getting complete revolutions one way but not the other I'm going to guess the problem is in the bottom end, not the top. Everything is just a guess though until the problem is found. Did you happen to get the story of what they was doing when it quit?

Looks like I have my first customer I’m gonna help out. Have a 424 enroute to my place in Alberta from NC I believe. Gonna do full rebuild on it.

update: got a few parts added on her, wrapped it up for the night, i'm beat.

update: well, got back from the deer woods yesterday, had a few large boxes in my living room !. got a large spike from the deer woods, need to get it down to hog's meat market, gonna let them process what i brought back, we ate the back strap sat night..mmm good !. anyway. i've got a project to fix at my cabin on the septic system, gotta install a vent line on the toilet pipe..grrrr..i did not install this line from the get-go, my dad had some drunk install the toilet many moons ago. had a 500 gal septic tank installed, but no vent line !. sooo..anyway, need to pull the toilet, and work my way back to the toilet. once i get that done, then soon, i'll get started back on putting the new RED ( sigh )..lol , plastics all back on this ole girl, install a new battery, she'll be done.i do still need to swing by autozone and pick up some fuel injection fuel line, the line i got on the tank to carb now is worthless, not correct, so i will be putting some good fuel line on the tank to carb before i start putting the plastics all on.

Victory folks I got it apart now I just gotta get the parts ordered

On most cases there are hollow steel dowels at the very rear and possibly front, Heat that area with some pressure on the seperator tool and with right side down crack the counter shaft with a plastic dead blow hammer. They all come apart just did a KX250 last week new main bearings and seals and rebuilt the crankshaft with new rod, pin, bearing and spacers! Good Luck !

You can add alittle heat to the casting around the bearings. But dont go crazy. The cast should expand at a way faster rate than the hardened material the bearings are made of. I would put some pressure on it with the seperator and heat it gently. It will probably start popping and moving little by little.