triharder

Its worked great over one winter of plowing. I wouldn.t go 3500 nxt time too overkill for the 3500. I.d go 2500 a synethic rope as well. Safer. Hope that helps

Okay, if the experts are telling me to stand down i'll run it as is. I was worried the top end (which i worked) was the issue. But as long as its not what i have physically touched i won't go any further. (I was just wondering if with the flywheel off, I could stethscope the outside of the crank bearing and turn over by hand and hear grumbling). I will stand down. I'll start a new build on the TRX200SX and possibly my other 88 2x4 TRX300. Both have been used and could use some love. Just need to finish the plow and winch installation on this one. From my limited experience Caltric fills a void where OEM dropped off. But, they don't necessarily meet OEM quality. Also one-way bearings are nothing new. Should we be seeing if companies in the US want to source us some bearings (I realize the Honda's seem to all have them?) Might just be a matter of giving them a size and seeing what they can do. just a thought.

do you think its worth running 20-50 weight oil before winter to seeif that changes my noise? Might pinpoint me to the crank bearings? Or is it worth pulling the flywheel and investigating the crank by rolling over the motor to see if i can pick up on the noise this way? Obviously, the easy answer here is just run it until something breaks or doesn't. But i'm probably more interested in tinkering than actually riding. Flywheel puller and gaskets are on there way. Anything i need to be aware of like the shift linkage on the clutch side? Also, caltric sells these one way bearings listed under hondas part number. Is it worth the effort to see if one of those bearings form, fit and functions the same? Might change the noise and then I know origin? Thanks again, Just realized how deep i need to get into my 86 TRX200SX with it on the lift yesterday. All four wheels feel like the bolts are loose at the hub but its tight.

I bought a did from g+h direct. So thats already covered. And installed. You still think its worth replacing again even if the tension checks out via the tensioner? Everything fit up and matched what i removed in my side by side check? Noise is oppsite side on the motor, shifter side. There is a bearing behind flywheel. its worth replacing that 1st? Have you ever had on go bad? Thanks i do appreciate the help.

Okay per stethoscope the noise is loudest if you touch the cap on the rotor. Interesting. If you touch the bottom end of the motor on the throttle side i get nothing. Or front. Top end you can hear the chain but no knocking. So. Is this a bad crankbearing on the rotor side or a typical trx350d noise? Shadetree any advice. Wish i could hook the stethoscope up to the phone. Thanks for any help you guys can give.

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Replaced fuel filter, rebuilt carb, synch slide to butterfly and set air fuel. Only issue i found was spring in air fuel missing the washer that acts like a spring seat and butterfly to needle synch was off. New choke piston came i. But it was shorter than existing, so i reused existing and choke is working good now. Also adjusted valves one exhaust was at .004 instead of .003. Last issue. Something is knocking in the bottom end. I think its bottom? Tried to pinpoint with screw driver to ear. You can feel it but i can.t pinpoint it yet. Are there any bearings that would cause a knock/hammering sound? I can take a video. But difficult to diagnose video.. Increases with rpm. Should i buy a new tensioner for the cam chain. Not likely issue as the chain is new. Have about 5 aolid hours on machine. Noise hasn.t changed.

Old starter took a toll on the brushs and the new "Made in Taiwan" DBelectronics starter installed. bike turns over way faster now. I tried to tackle the fuel filter before i do the carb but forgot to drain the fuel tank or shut off the petcock. Garage now stinks of gasoline. Will finish that up and the carb this weekend. But, choke worked fine yesterday in the 60 degree temps were in now. I might not bother replacing that piston. machine still idles fast then after a five to 10 second count the idle drops. I'm going to rebuild carb and then re-check the valves. I was gifted some CV joints that read Moose racing on them? P/N from dennis Kirk checks out? Shadetree are you saying these aren't usable? Let me know. I'll try to post some more pictures when i can.

new starter on order. New shindy carb kit on order. i'll buy new choke parts if the new carb kit doesn't solve my issues. I guess i'll be riding it with the front CVs as is. And i won't worry about front diff clutch plates?

Back with some questions. Bikes together ran it for 4 hours today about 50 miles, from power lines to dirt roads to san pit and back. Full throttle runs and slow going enough the fan kicked on. Runs great with three outstanding issues New parts. Cam chain, ring and piston, valve seals and new engine oil. New plug, new air filter, diff filter, Shadetree any advice would be appreciated. Issue 1) won.t crank on starter when hot. Will start if it catches immediately when hot but it it cranks more than once and the starter won.t crank it and slowly stops trying. Will start with kicker no problem. Battery is less than a year, charges up fine and shows full when the quad won.t turn over. Bike runs fine if you kick it. 1. Starter is original wires are clean as of yesterday and tight. But machine did sit outside for 10-15 years. It did not get better or change when i cleaned the starter terminals. 2. Battery works fine on other machine and tests fine under load test. Let it sit for 20 minutes catches and runs like nothing happened. Thinking i need a new starter? Or a brush kit? Thoughts. Issue 2: Bike starts when cold and revs up then after 5-7 seconds idle settles low, sometimes stalls (mimics a fuel injection system) this is with no choke, bike doesn.t respond to choke well unless very 1st start stine cold and you need to rurn it iff quickly.. If i ride it and it gets hot it will idle quick but if you give 5-7 seconds it drops. A little scary when you need to turn around as it moves when you expect it not too. Cable verified free, carb recently cleaned, previous owner rebuilt but did not change needle and i don.t know what carb kit he used. I.ll buy a shindy kit and install this week with a new needle. Fuel pump sounds awful but keeps up just fine. New fuel filter on order. Doesn.t respond well idle adjust. Will idle up but won.t stay at higher idle if that makes sense. I did not adjust fuel air screw but have tool now. Anything come to mind on low idle. Presents like a vacuum leak but it doesn.t hang up. I greased and tightened carb boots and boot to cylinder has a new oring. Think a needle would do that? 3rd outstanding issue. Front end chatter. I ran new front hypoid oil and rolling out of garage heard the front diff. So i changed synethic hypoid for dino with friction modifier. That didn.t work at all. Even pushing straight it chattered and was angry. So back to amsoil syn with addition friction modifer. 98% of the time no noise or chatter. Then a hard turn or backing up or something she'll chatter. Its not worrysome enough to think it will fail, is it worth pulling and replacing clutch plates? If its not consistent i don.t think its cv joints? Thoughts? If you accept its 35 years old and quirky its fine. But i want 35 years and feel like new.

No Shadetree I don't take Youtube as gospel. However, from my much less limited experience in small motor repair I have seem to have better luck with ethanol free in my small engines.

If anybody wants a laugh F9 covered the gas treatment question quite well. here's the link also, Projectfarm did a video on it as well. From what i've gathered if it sits ethanol free is the way to go (for me thats lawn mower, atvs, etc) daily driver get 10% ethanol. I'm not sure i'm a fan of gas treatment. Snake oil? I agree with whomever said they fill up the last tank with ethanol free. (Also, the typical snowmachine in Canada sees between 10 to 20k miles before rebuilds/etc depending on owner. Typically USA machine only goes 5 to 10k. USA is 10 ethanol, Canada I believe is ethanol free. Something to consider.

Following up. Motor Shop reviewed the measurments on the cylinder and we decided to overbore the cylinder and install a new piston etc. Got her back together. Got her tight and running. I'll post some pictures when i get a chance. Busy week at work. Next up about 20 minutes left in my 1 hour heat run. I'll swap the fluids, renew the rear diff fluid, plug, air filter, oil and oil filter. Then she'll be good to go. Still need to evaluate the fuel gage. Currently she's dead (funny it was flashing/working when i had the ground off for the gas pump). My 07 VFR800 let me stranded on the way to work tonight so i'm frustrated with honda tonight. More Stator/Reg/REf issues. started it and she won't make 14.1 volts at the battery so i should have left it home, but 3.5 miles later she cooked the a fuse and i had to call the wife. Ended up about 30 minutes late for work too. But, glad to have the TRX back together and running well. (interesting side not my compression is till at 135 psi, i think my gage is junk and ordered a new one via amazon), with a groomed up head, new parts and now broke in the only thing left is my broken gage. machine starts well and runs well so i don't think the 135 psi is a good measurement)

More progress and my kick sharter shaft bearing is crunchy. Looks like cylinder needs a bore to clear some defects. Nothing serious but she's old. I lapped the valves but probably need to cut the seats. Off to the local machine shop. Just need to verify turn around times, would like this outta my garage before fall. Jug and piston are off i.ll snap some more images.

Baxk at it tonight. Compression still low 125 psi tonight. Tried to leak test but its not being helpful. Had a buddy help hold the crank. Leaking 5 psi less than my gauge and i can hear air. Can.t quite locate it. At 90 psi it was leaking intake and exhaust. My valve lash checjed out loose so perhaps carbon on valves. Heads coming off. No leakage at crank vent, and if you dont hold on at 50 psi the piston will rotate. Thinking rings are fine? Guess i.ll know more one head is off. So. Gasket kit recommendation? And viton valve seals any good? Vlv cover was removed tonight. Tomorrow clutch cover and start at cam chain. This weekend head cleaning and lapping. Still not sure where i.m hearing leakage at head wven at 5 psi, nothing at vent and sounds almost like head gasket. We held it for 5 minutes at 90, checked to make sure rockers were loose and still had play. Thing runs great, or at least did before i touched it. More to come

I bought and recieved new copper gaskets for the header. If anybody is sure the old ones are in the head I'll figure out how to get them out for room for the new ones. I wasn't sure if they were still there (i believe they are) and does anybody think pulling the nut frozen on the stud worth removing? or just install as a bolt effectively now? I'm suspect of my tailpipe. Might need to redo that with primer and paint and only do two of the 3 steps for curing the paint. I was going to adjust the valves before cam chain and then again verify after. But i can wait till the end. I guess leakdown test will prove whether the heads coming off or if my compression tester is off (i'm suspect of it). Also will shake out the rings or valves for where my issue. With the header off i should be able to feel air at the exhaust if those valves are carbon build up or if nothing present there then the intake (i haven't removed the carb as the previous owner already cleaned that up. Thanks again for any help people are willing to provide.

Okay a few items to discuss. 1) tried the 2000 degree high heat black paint no primer on my tailpipe and jb weld patch. I did not prime the siliencer. I heat treated in the has grill at 250 for 30, let cool, then 400 for 30 let cool. Then got distracted on final 600 degrees and of course when i checked it ten minutes n Later the grill tan up to 650 on my none calibrated gauge and it had a lot of ash. Cold be burnt up tin foil, old food greae or other. I could and did rub off the black See pix below. Will decide how header heat treatment goes if i.m going to tedo siliencer with primer, also midded what i thought was a drainage hole. Its a rust hole. Might just patch or redo wil see. 2nd. Pulled covers off valves and was getting all the way up to .005" clearance. Weird as i always thought valves wore tighter as the compress the seats. Will adjust before timing chain replace. 3rd. Did a cold compeession check with header off and got 155 psi. Which is pretty low. However book specs a warm engine test. S Correct me if i.m wrong but shouldn.t it be close cold or warm? Also would loose not tight valves keep the compression number low?. BasicLly should i just order new rings and pull the jug too? Tomorrow leak down test. Should give me health of valves. Probably makes sense to replace cam chain, adjust valves and test compression while warm. Thing starts first rotation and feels fine with no excess smoke when it runs. Save me from myself please.

She's an 86 XL250R dirtbike. Still running and like i mentioned before "if there is a mistake to be made i've made it".

Not sure what you mean about pressure chamber? Yes the whole thing sees pressure. There is a good youtube video of somebody building one of these i watched. I jb welded it for now. Welding my plan would have been to roll new steel and patch to good metal. But jb weld will work for now. Figured i.d post this if anybody can guess the machine. Shadetree thanks for any help you can provide. If there is a mistake to be made i.ve made it. Would rather not break something that can.t be replaced on this rig. Trying to decide if chasing the fuel gauge intermitt working is worthwhile. Saw a great post here of the inner workings. Looks like a tank that sat for 12 years probably ly needs the inside cleaned up to made bettercontacts. Kid before me cleaned it out and ran fuel filters in series until the gas was clear (clever as he paid 250 bucks for this thing). Why they would do the fuel gauge is crazy, why not just the arm in the tank and circuit on the outside i.ll never know. Looks easy enough once the tank is off. Does anybody know where the grounds are for the electrical, would like to clean them up before getting in too deep. As always keep the suggestions coming. I.m going to print out that cam chain advice before i start that project .

Oh i already popped it off, my new one just doesn.t feel secure and the old one doesn.t either. New problems? Jb weld (2 part epoxy). Or? Silver braze (map torch and some wire) Or Pay ti have welded as i lack tooling and skill. See above image

Beautiful machine. I wanted the winch in either case but your correct the plow could be manual. Stickered up today while i wait for that cam chain to arrive this week and the $80 bucks in seals i bought today if needed for that clutch cover. Still need New stickers. Nxt up Cam chain, Rear axle oil seals Exhaust coat, muffler patch Fuel tank gauge apart and cleaned. And still need help welding the front rack and winch mount But theres no rush. I tried to swap the switch knobs on the left handlebar with a replacements. Now i think i might need to superglue the run knob as the old tab is non existent. Not sure touching things makes them better or worse. Also i supposed i should swap to a build thread as i.m sure i.ll have more questions as i continue with cam chain. Think its worth replacing the brushes in the starter for good measure?

Sorry. My fault, nothing has been cut. (I did cut exhaust wire guard to get the header out) i will fix it. Checked timing chain i.m at about 1/4 left on tensioner. So adjust left but not a lot? I bought a cam chain just need to decide if i.m swapping. I also have a valve cover to re hondabond. So it makes sense to check clutches too i guess. Then its off to pulling the siliencer and fixing rot in the bottom (jb weld this none pressure area). More to come. I was going to weld my front rack/fix but i ran out of talent. Oh and i need new rear seals.

I'm working out the mount situation currently. (installed in front of the location you did). my 3/16 plate isn't what wanted and i bought a 1/4, but i need to catch the front bolt holes for the rack with my mount when i'm done. (Its not lost on me this 4-wheeler weighs what 500 lb-600 lbs. I bought the badlands 3500 (as i figure oversize motor tugging a low weight is better than the harbor freight 2500 for the same duty). guard is removed for painting Also i need to fix the front rack that is broken. tried to source a replacement but they are bend in about the some spot. I noted your welded location in my research but can not wrap around welding on the frame as its not a replaceable component. Same with splash guards. Would rather not cut if i could help it.

New to me 1988 TRX350D. Finally found the utlity quad i was after. I own a shorter driveway (110 feet) and wanted a workhorse to plow it and also tug a yard trailer around my larger (kidding) 1.5 acre property This popped and up and jumped. It needs nothing and was good to go (actually needed a new header as the header was split after a failed repair weld). A friend bought and got her running after 15 years of sitting in another friends yard. One it was running with new tires I bought i up. Trying to mount a winch and also restoring some odds and ends. Glad to be here