shadetree

headed down to cabin here soon, will hang the dishes cabinet by sink, fix sink, install new ele outlet, then start trimming out the room. chances are, i will not be down there all day today, i think i can get all this done fairly fast today ?.still need to fix the floor along the bedroom wall, water damage has rotted out the floor along it, and now you can see daylight through there..lol. i'll come up with something to fix it to keep the mice, bugs out. will post pics later today/tonight when i get a chance.

i just gotta ask zach, you did not by any chance post a video on youtube about a trx400ex purchased , and has a problem did you ?. i seen a video on the home screen there..but did not watch it, is this you ?..lol. as for gears going back together backwards ?..i'm willing to bet...about 99.99% of us here...at one time or another has installed gears on backwards ?, i know i have !..lol. as for the gasket ?..if i gasket it there to start with ?, THEN BY ALL MEANS...PUT A GASKET BACK ON THERE !..DO NOT USE YAMABOND, RTV SEALANT, OR ANY OTHER GASKET MAKER STUFF WHERE A GASKET IS CALELD FOR !..you will regret this down the road.

another 13 hr shift yesterday, into the even'ing. 6 am to 7 pm, i was beat when i got home last night. the good news is i'm nearing all the big work in the main room !. couple more spots to put paneling up, then i will trim out the walls and ceiling , still not sure if i want to run baseboard ?. ran in to an issue with the kitchen sink, i had to pull the cabinets off the wall, and seen that the drain screw that holds the strainer in the sink was stripped out ?..hmm..lol. this made me pull the whole cabinet , counter top, and cabinets out. i had to do this anyway for the most part, in order to get insulation in the wall, and put paneling up. took me a few hrs to get all that area done.

stop being cheap, buy oem honda parts from honda, stay far away from amazon..they sell only china parts !..lol. when buying off ebay ?, make sure you know what you are looking at ?, even sellers on there scam you into believing its oem from honda !.

got some more work inside done, started at 5:30 am, stopped at 6:00pm, came home..i'm a tad sore right now. stopped after i got the bedroom door hung.

yeah..its deff a project, its kicking my butt sideways !.

you need a blind bearing puller tool to remove that bearing.

haha..no..2 summers ago, i did the outside , and roof. this summer i'm fixing the inside. front and side door is steel, no more wooden doors for me on outside walls !.

update; well outlaws, its been a few sense this thread was last updated ?, but i finally started in on fixing the inside these past couple days. was down there at day light wed morning , moved most of the contents out of the main room, and started ripping all the water damaged paneling off the walls. here is a few pic's of bare walls for now. came home around 2 pm wed, unloaded a truck load of broken paneling to the curb, rested a bit, headed to homedepot, spent a good chunk of change for new paneling to do the whole inside, front room, and back room area. also got a new bed room door, door lock, picked up a 20 amp breaker, seems the new window air i installed last summer draws more amps on a circuit that i had my shop vac plugged into wed, and tripped the breaker, so i picked up a new 20 amp sd breaker, 50ft 12-2 outdoor wire, i will put that main room window unit on its own breaker thursday. so now when i go to use the microwave at the same time the air is on, it wont trip the breaker. i spent 2 hrs loading my trailer and truck up weds night with all my needed tools and supply's for thursdays work. i will be down there from day light to dark thirty thursday i think ?, i'm sure i will be very tired when i get back home. i'm going to try to get all the main room paneling hung thursday ?, but i wont be able to trim the walls and doors out, as i did not pick up any trim yet, no rush for that anyway. once th front room is done, i will start in on the back bed room and bathroom area. i will post before and after pics of that when i start in on that room. pretty sure that bed room/bath area will be more work..no insulation in walls, and all the paneling has to come down, and the ceiling has to be built, as well as the wall between it, and the main room..oh what fun huh ?!..lol. here's the pics of wed work so far, i will post some after pics when i get some paneling hung back up in the main room.

the very last part of this comment tells me the c.d.i. is bad. yes..you said you replaced it...right ?..unless you bought it from honda ?, its a china knock off !. i'll stake all my money on this, ( which is not much right now ?..but still ).

i would remove all the elec shift parts before you pull front cover.

sorry to hear this bro, we are here if ya need to talk.

is this the center bolt holding the pull starter on ?, or you trying to get the flywheel off ?. if you are trying to remove the pull starter cage ?, it is a 17mm head bolt, right hand threads, left to loosen !. a good air impact gun should zip it right out, do not need anything to hold the flywheel from turning. if you are trying to remove the flywheel ?, this calls for a spec tool to thread down into the flywheel's center to press the flywheel off the crank.

there used to be a sticky here made by me on how to EASILY check, adjust, set valves on all honda atv engines. i do it old school, no feeler gauges , no torque wrenches, just old school all the way. the way i do my valves: remove the rear pull starter ( i see you already have the rear cover off ), if you have the rear cover back on, but not the pull starter ?!..do this: look at the pull starter cage, on one of the tabs is a line in the middle of the tab, this line faces the raised arrow stamped on the stator cover, about 12 or 11 o'clock on the 350 ranchers ?. line up the line on the tab to the raised arrow, your piston is now on top dead center...IT MAY..OR MAY NOT BE TOP DEAD CENTER ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE THOUGH !. the way you find this out...is take a 17mm socket with a ratche. with rocker box removed so you can see the intake and exhaust valves, slowly rotate the starter cage counter clockwise ( go left ), as you are doing this turning, carefully watch the intake valve, it should start to go down as you are turning the starter cage ( crank ), if it does start to go down ?, slowly rotate the starter cage ( crank ) back clockwise ( go right ) until that line on the starter cage lines back up under the raised arrow on the stator cover. hold it in place, set the valves. if for some reason the intake valve DID/DOES not start to go down when you first started turning the crank counter clockwise from the get-go ?, this means you had the line on starter tab set on top dead center on the exhaust stroke, which is wrong. valves must be set on a cold engine, and on the compression stroke !. ok, now that you see that the piston was on exhaust stroke, and not compression stroke, with the line on the starter tab facing the raised arrow on the stator cover, rotate the crank clockwise ( to the right, as if you are pull starting it ), go 360 degree's, one full turn, all the way back around to line up the line on the starter cage tab, facing raised arrow on stator cover, get it lines up, no go back counter clockwise ( back to the left ) slowly, the intake valve should starter to go down now. once it does, rotate the crank back clockwise slowly, line the line on starter cage tab back under the raised arrow on stator cover, hold it there, adjust/set the valves, done..wrap it up, drink a cold one on me.

ah..ok..did not know you even had the engine out ?!.

welcome to our forums !.

how can you say cam chain looks ok..when you can't even see the cam chain without removing rear cover ???...unless this atv is not a trx350 rancher ??.

the main problem we face right now ?, is as most pro-gun owners today have let congress, sotcus get away at chipping away at our 2nd amendment one line at a time !. the last time i read the 2nd amendment ?, it clearly states.. '' shall not be infringed '' !!. the 2nd amendment was changed through the yrs..it dates all the way back too the mid to late mid 1600's..i watched a great video on flutube lastnight, there is...or was ?..a great video posted that i watched on a channel i watch, '' prepping 101 '' all you gun owners need to watch this -->JUNE 12/ THE DIVISION/ THIS IS URGENT PLEASE TUNE IN ITS IMPORTANT - YouTube . watch..listen...and freaking learn what the 2nd amendment was intended for !. guns do not kill people..PEOPLE KILL PEOPLE !. if we as law abiding folks do not make a stand ?..we will not have a country to stand for.it will only get worse from here on out..bank on it !.

don't know how most of ya'll feel on this gun taking away crap ?, but i'll tell you this..i've lved most of my life on this planet, and i'll meet my maker when it comes time for these folks to come try and take my guns !!. if they succeed ?, it will be from my cold dead hands. '' when they outlaw guns ..then only outlaws will have guns ! ''.

i do not know if they are the same ?, i looked one up just now, only thing i see that might be a problem is they do not mount to the side of the tank like the oem sending units do on the old 350's. and i also would bet that the float arm and float are not the same length as oem.

on that lower steering bearing, remove the lower bearing bracket, it will be easier to get the bearing out to replace it..if you can locate a new one ?.

the arm inside the tank has what i call tiny fingers..these fingers float up and down on a small circuit board..which then makes the digital meter on front right inner fender give you the reading in red lines/dots. when the arm gets old, worn out, it gets loose in the metal bracket where the circuit board is mounted, this in turn does not allow the tiny fingers to stay pressed against the circuit board. when my arm ( sending unit is what they are called ) went out, i was lucky enough to find a NOS one on ebay, but boy did it cost me !..lol. i only spent the cash on it, because at that time, i purchased a plastic tank for mine, no more rust in tank or carb !. it also was not cheap..but it sure has paid for itself sense then !.

prayers sent...get well..both of ya !.

its china made....don't expect it too last !.

i can tell you right now, you..or anyone that tries to weld that muffler ^^ ?, all that will happen is make the holes bigger !. the metal is too far gone to weld anything to it. it can not be welded. and yes..the pressure chamber DOES run through the whole muffler unlike you said earlier.