shadetree

patience goes out the window when 5 day's goes by, and the tracking number tells you for one, the tracking number has a problem and it does not see where your item is ?, and your item does not move in 5 days. take that patience crap..and stick it !..rofl. this part was $ 88.50, where the o-ring was like 2 dollars ?..yeah..i get the cheap part...they loose the high dollar part ?..or someone stole it ?..lol.

see if you can get a starter from D&B electrical, worth the money and time.

update: well, the fuel petcock o-ring arrived from my order in a big box mind you !!..lol, but the petcock body is no where to be found according to rmatv tracking number ? how do you send a small o-ring in a huge box, it gets here, but yet at the same time, a larger item that weighs more...GETS LOST ??!!..yeah..i let them have an ear full through an email..this part was not cheap !!. got an email back yesterday from someone in sales, said they would send another petcock out next day shipping ?, i did look it up, sure enough, the order is being placed. the first order went through usps...GO FIGURE !!...lord i hate the mail system more than ever these days. this is all that is keeping me from finishing this project.

1/4 left on cam chain ?, yeah...you deff need to replace that cam chain !!. word from the wise..if you put it off too long ?, it will jump time, and destroy engine parts !!. those cam's, rockers are very, VERY hard to locate in good shape these days ?, and if you do find them ?, THEY WILL COST YOU A PRETTY PENNY...I'LL BANK ON THIS !..LOL. along with a cam chain, yamabond, plan on a clutch side cover gasket, oil filter, and maybe even the oil seals for the kick starter and reverse shaft if you can still get them from honda ?. it's best to tilt the atv on its left side about 45 degree's or drain the engine oil seeing how you are changing out the oil filter anyway..which means you will need 3 qrts of wet clutch approved atv/motorcycle engine oil. the reason for titling the atv is so when you go to put the side cover back on, the change clutch parts will stay in place when you install cover back on. dab a small amount of grease to the triangle part with the 3 balls and spring to hold it in place, SPRING FACES DOWN !. another word from the wise..BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO LET THE KICK STARTER SHAFT COME OUT AT ALL WHEN YOU PULL CLUTCH COVER !!. REASON: there is a thrust washer on the very end of that kick starter shaft..when and if you move or let this shaft come out any at all ?, i'll bet a 30 pack of bud ( and i don't like seeing good cold brew going to waste !..lol ) this washer will fall off into the lower engine case !!!..trust me on this..it will ruin your day !..lol. make note of any and all thrust washer when you pull cover, there will be a large washer on the outside of the kickstarter end, and a small washer that goes on the end of the reverse shaft. i don't recall or remember if there is also a small washer on the change clutch shifting arm or not ?, do not have my service manual sitting in front of me ? ( check in the manual if there is or not ? ). Make note of the shifting shaft as it comes out the lower left bottom of the engine case, in the very back, as the shaft comes through the case, there is a raised stamp arrow pointing towards the shaft, when you go to slide the arm back on the shaft, this arm has a punch mark/dot on the left end side of it, IT MUST FACE THE RAISED STAMP ARROW !. if you do not line these back up ?, it will not shift correctly. back to side cover, once you remove the cover, make a mental note that the oil pick up screen is under the side cover gasket, you will need to peel the gasket off to see it, clean it, install it right back in while your looking at it !..( dont ask me how/why i am telling you this..lol ) when you get ready to put cover back on, install the reverse shaft with the long end of the shaft facing about 1 o'clock up under the shift drum, short end faces down towards the bottom left side, long end of spring rest on bottom of top side of engine case, once you get the reverse shaft installed, pry the long end of this spring back as far as you can bend it...yes..i said bend it !!. REASON: if for any reason you have to remove this cover after you discover it wont shift right ?, leave a part out like a washer or what not ?, you will pull the reverse shaft back out of the case, spring will drop down, AND TEAR YOUR BRAND NEW GASKET !...yes..i have seen this happen many times !!. FAIR WARNING !!!!..MAKE SURE THIS SPRING IS IN ITS PLACE BEFORE YOU INSTALL COVER ??!!..i've seen it happen many times..the long end of this spring pops down, lay's between the engine case, and side cover, and folks bolt the cover on, not knowing the end of this spring is wedged between the cover and case..and now have ruined the gasket..and deformed the engine case..or cover matting surface !.

sell that..go get the atv..lol. been working my rear off lately..story of my life..lol.

what..no pic s ??..lol.

here is the tool you will need to pull that clutch..DO NOT BUY IT FROM THIS SELLER !!..slow as all get out to ship it to you !! --> 35mm CLUTCH PULLER for HONDA FOREMAN 400 TRX400FW 95 96 97 98 TRX450S 98-04 ++ | eBay .

remove front cover, clutch is right under it. YOU DEFF WILL NEED A SPEC CLUTCH PULLER TOOL TO REMOVE IT !!. ( been there..done that ).

start by checking the injectors for good fuel flow pattern from them. they could be clogged ?, if they are not getting any fuel pressure from the fuel injection pump which as you should know, is inside the engine block, then it very well could be the problem. i would start with removing the fuel line from one of the injectors, pull the injector out, hook the line back up, crank it over, watch the spray pattern..if any at all ?. hopefully its dirty, clogged injectors ?, if not ?, then this tells me the injection pump in the block is bad. if you are really lucky ?..it might just be a clogged fuel filter or clogged fuel line ?!..lol.

tells me the starter is bad. either worn brushes ?, or bad armature ?, either way, the starter needs to be replaced, for what starter brushes cost ?, its easier, faster just to buy a starter from D&B electrical, be done with it.

ah..ok.

i just pulled up a 2000 trx300fw, partzilla shows just the nut separate, where did this idea come from that honda does now sell just the nut ??.

if your starter is bad ?, D&B electrical is my go-too choice for after market starters, i've had great success with them over the years.

i see the front axle skid plate has been cut off, and missing ?, this is a very important part that protects the front diff..this diff is not easy to replace !!..lol. i don't think that spot is strong enough to hold that winch ?, for your sake..i hope it is !. i used the frame area for the simple fact that is the strongest point on the whole atv. these models are very heavy as you said..once you get them stuck ?, now double..triple that weight when trying to get it out. my set up looks dang near factory, you would never know i have a winch on mine if it wasn't for the hook sticking out the front..lol.

Diesels do not require spark or in this case..gasoline as you can guess. they run from a high compression only, if the compression is low ?, they will not run. never..ever..let a diesel engine run out of fuel ?..once they run dry ?, you get air in the line, and it is a royal pain in the back side to get them bled !..lol.

haha..welcome to my world !..rofl.

i don't think those models have a fan control unit ?, i believe they work out of the ecu if i'm not mistaken ?. where did you buy the temp sensor ?..amazon ?, ebay ?, got to be careful buying parts from these places..they love to sell parts claiming its oem..when in fact..its china !.

other than having the wire harness connected the right way ?, you can't take short cuts just to see if the engine will run. start with getting the service manual from our site here, start tracing the butchered wires, and see if you can at least splice in some good wires to the correct harness side to switch or what ever to make a good connection. you need a good neutral light, good ground, kill switch set to center so you do not ground the spark plug coil. oil temp light comes on, goes off when you turn the key on, if ya got all this right ?, it should spark the spark plug. use a VERY SHORT burst of starting fluid just to see it the engine will at least '' hit '' ?.

i would start with a stock oem carb, after market carbs are a hit or miss..mostly miss !..lol.

only crf100f that pops up on partzilla is a 2004 year model, which tells me, you got the wrong carb ?, or rebuilt the carb with the wrong carb kit ?. honda did not make the crf100f in 2001.

i just tried looking this bike up, no listing showing on partzilla for a '01 honda crf 100f bike anywhere ?..are you sure of the make and year ??.

is this a manual shift or es shift ?. once you unhook the stator from the wire harness, you should only have 3 yellow wires on the stator side, the pick up coil is not connected to the stator.or should not be anyway. where did you buy the stator from ?..ebay ?, amazon ?..or from a honda dealer ?. if amazon or ebay ?, then chances are..you bought china part. most honda atv's MUST have a matching flywheel and stator. you do not need to pull the stator out of motor to ohm it out.

spray some oil down through the adjusters hole, use a pry bar on the studs, work it around until you get the hub to turn, then use a couple large flat head screw drivers around the drum and backing plate, 9-3 o'clock or 12-6 position , sooner or later the drum will come off. keep soaking the drum through the adjuster hole and turning it, sooner or later the drum will come off.

these would work if the axle does not move ?, if you are working on say..a 4wd front axle drive system, all you will do is push the drive axle in, and not pull the hub. i made a drum/hub puller out of an old trx300 2wd hub, used a broken c-clamp screw part, i just slide it on over the studs, put the wheel lug nuts on like i am mounting the wheel, then screw in the center part. BUT !!..this design will not work on a 4wd front drive system. so in this case, i leave the axle nut on the hub, remove the two 8mm bolts that hold the drum to the hub, and then pull just the drum off, most times this works. i still have to work the drum off with screw drivers now and then when the hub is seized to the brake shoes.from stuck wheel adjusters.or stuck wheel cylinders.

early trx350 ranchers had a defective head in them. the valve seats would work loose, and slap the underside of the valves, unless they valves are not adjusted right ?, then this is the problem, or the cam chain, or worn rod causing piston slap ?.