shadetree

when you turn the key on, are you getting a neutral light to light up on the dash ?, if not ?, it wont fire the spark plug.

update: finished the air box install tuesday night, i ran into an issue with the filter cage missing from the air box ?, thank goodness i had a spare set back, they are discontinued from honda. i did have to make the rear mounting bracket/tab from some metal, got that done. had to order a fuel petcock, his was trashed big time !. went to work on the brake work for rear, discovered it needed a left handle bar to rear brake cable, his was shot, my local honda dealership had one in stock ( not sure how that took place ?!..lol ) , ran and bought that, then went to autozone for some brake fluid , fuel line, and some small hose clamps, picked all that up, got back to the house, started in on rear brakes, other than the long brake cable ?, it was fairly easy work, finished that, started in on front brakes, oh lord..what a mess this turned out to be !. had to remove the master cylinder, give it a going over, it was seized in the piston bore, and crud out the ying yang inside the master cylinder, fixed all that, went to work the brake lever to build pressure up..i was amazed it built up pressure. i kept adding brake fluid...and something did not seem right ?, 3 times filled it..no solid pressure on lever yet ?,,hmmm..looked over on front left wheel, under it..poured my brake fluid from the drum !..aghhh..means the wheel cylinders are leaking. Took the brake drum off the backing plate, ONLY TO DISCOVER THERE WERE NO PARTS ATTACHED TO THE BRAKES BACKING PLATE !!!..WTH !!!. pulled right front brake drum off to check it as well, sure enough..SAME DANG THING..NOTHING BUT A BACKING PLATE WITH JUST THE WHEEL CYLINDERS ?!!..OMG...now what do i do ?, had to make a call to catfish, checked to see if he had some front brake parts on hand, yep..he did, but it was pouring rain at that time, i waited until about 7pm to head out there and grab them. got back, started tearing them down to give them a complete over haul. got all that done, bleed left front, right front would not bleed when i opend the bleeder valve..hmmm ?. line must be stopped up between the brake drum and master cylinder. i pulled the line off the right front wheel cylinder, grabbed my '' go too spec wire '' worked it up inside the line carefully, then fluid started to run out, problem solved !. got that side bled,working after i set the brake shoes of course on both sides before i started bleeding them. finally got the front wheels back on at 11:45pm, called it a day/night, i'm beat. only thing i like is getting the fuel tank petcock installed on the fuel tank when it comes in, get the body work back on, adjust the front toe in/out, tires are all crooked !.put the battery hold down bracket back on, install seat, and i should be done with this project.

its called job security !!..rofl.

i can't count on all my fingers an toes on how many stupid designs i have seen on honda atvs..some of them just make ya shake yer head..and ask..why ??!!..lol.

no..they should takes lessons from us guy's that fix them all the time !..if anyone should know how they should be built ?..IT'S US !..LOL.

break out the check book, because chances are, you got some big engine damage from using an atv as a boat.

buy a starter from d&b elec, they sell great after market starters. be sure to inspect the transfer gears !!.

welcome to our forums. to mount a winch, you need a steel plate, 3/16 thick, cut to size to fit right in front of the fan, wide enough to lay on top of the tube frame, and long enough to reach from the very front, all the way back to where it stops right in front of the fan, DO NOT MOUNT IT ANYWHERE ELSE !!. I welded my plate to my '89 trx350D frame, then i had to cut out the inner splash guards on front left side to be able to work the winch knob. i installed a warn pro vantage 2500s, kfi roller fair lead, my winch is rope, i'll never use cable again.

and now you know why i leave my toys all stock !..lol.

try resting the push rods at the correct angle and spacing with the engine angled by maybe jacking the frame up so the push rods stay in place while you set the rocker box down on them ?. i was not fond of these types of rocker boxes with the rocker design when i did them. another reason i hate the trx500fa !...lol.

yes, followers face flat side down, rest on cam lobes., sounds like you got everything correct, just having a hard time getting the rocker box down on the top of the push rods.

now i know where i left my wrenches !!!.

i've only worked on a couple trx500fa, they have the over head cam..correct ?, did you install the cam facing the lobes the correct way ?, you are right, the rocker cover does not give ya much room to get the push rods room to line up them up with the rocker cup ends, if i remember right when i did it, i had to use a flashlight to peek into the rocker box to make sure the push rods were in the rocker cups before i bolted the rocker box down.

this would look more convincing if it had shark teeth on the open hood !..lol.

9 out of 10 times, if they run with just the choke and not idle with the choke off ?, then the idle jet is stopped up !.

pull the rear diff out the rear end, split it, clean it all out, put fresh new gear oil back in. while you have it apart, now is the time to check the bearings, replace the oil seals if you can still get them ?. 80w-90 gear oil is what i run in all my diff's.

if you are getting power to the spark plug coil ?, then it should fire the spark plug. have you tried a new spark plug plugged into the spark plug coil, ground to engine, crank it over to see if it sparks ?.

you use a multimeter to ohm the stator out, please read the service manual on how to do test, you do not need to remove the stator from the engine to do this test.

update: yesterday eve'ning, i got the exhaust all back together, ran it for a few min's, she smoked like a freight train, i knew it would !, not because of my cylinder work ?, but the exhaust system had been ran with bad oil rings, it was full of unburnt oil, which means it will smoke for a bit until the exhaust system burns it out. i was told it smoked 10 years ago when they put it to rest, so i knew going in it would smoke. i still have not installed the air box with new air filter, will do that today. have not touched the front or rear brakes yet , not sure he wants me to work on those or not ?, he wont get back to me by cell or text ?. i do not like being ignored when it comes to getting paid !..lol. with no brake work ?, he owes me $ 936.73 for parts i pitched in, and paid for, plus my labor. who's gonna do a complete engine pull, tear down, rebuild, and running for this price ?..no one that i know of !!.

carb is not right.

get psn to track down the driver.

did you ohm the stator out ?, what was the readings ?.

update: had to hone the crap outta the cylinder, the local boring guy all of a sudden came down with the flu i was told, who the heck gets the flu in the spring time ??. anyway, spent over an hour honing the cylinder out to match the shindy piston, got it where i wanted it, ran the rings down in the cylinder, hardly no end gap what so ever. got it all back together, motor installed, carb rebuilt , installed the engine, added engine oil, installed battery, cranked her over a few times to get the oil moving, sure enough...IT LIVES AGAIN AFTER SITTING 10 YEARS !. still need to get the exhaust installed, '' fine tune '' the clutch, recheck oil level, then start working on front and rear brakes.

check powersports nation, see if they have a used 400 head ?, pretty sure the 450 head is the same as the 400 head ?.

haha..well..yer deff in the right place to get wrenches tossed at ya !..rofl. we all live and learn bro..even me at doing this 30 yrs now. as for the ball joints ?, a shop press is the best tool you can ever have on hand !.