shadetree

i just love wrenching..lol.

keep the 450..trust me on this.

welcome...30 yrs as well working on atvs..motorcycles..small engines..i need a life !..lol.

i'm not 100% postive ?, but i've worked on alot of the 125's, and the sub-tranny hardley ever bite the dust

cam chain.

i voted for jeep..lol.

outer cover is cracked all the way through, ain't no polish gonna polish that out !..lol. maybe shine it up some ?, but deff wont make it clear as new.

i just gotta ask, and i trash all these guards, floor boards..hate them !. my question is..why do you even need these ???. i know..you are going to say they protect your feet..right ?..how so ?. unless you are riding with your dang toes facing down where they can catch the nearest stump..rock..tree..what ever ?, i don't see how they are any different than riding with the stock feet guards to begin with. other than this..the paint work looks top notch !!.

i added 2x6 boards to the top of my runners on my lift, atvs that have floorboards would not clear , by adding the extra 1 1/2, i dont have much trouble lifting any atv now.

good deal, i use db elec alot for my starters, well worth the money.

where did you purchase the angle sensor from ?..ebay ?..as they sell a lot of china parts. always buy/install oem parts from a honda dealer. did you test the electric shift motor ?, if its weak , bad ?, it wont shift very good. is the battery fully charged ?, electric shifts must have a fully charged battery to shift right.

welcome, i sent you a reply :-).

just take the fuel tank off, heat shield off, remove the valve cover, with key on, kill switch OFF !, crank it over a few sec's, see if oil is getting to the top end ??. you are making this harder than what it really is !..lol. a black plug either means is running rich ? ( would explain why it only runs when choke is on ! ), a lean engine would make the spark plug white'tish, not black !. a black plug means is either running rich ?, or the rings are worn out ?.

even if it is running lean ?, then fan should kick on from over heating...correct ?.

don't study it...buy it !. i have the craftsman version, been using it for many yrs, did have to replace the bottle jack awhile back, but other than this ?,YOUR BACK WILL LOVE YOU FOR LONG TIME !..LOL.

do what fish said ^^, under rear engine is the oil temp sensor, unplug it from the sensor, turn the key on, ground the wire to the engine, when you touch the wire to the engine/ground , it should instantly kick the oil cooler fan on, if it does ?, then this means the oil temp sensor is bad. if the fan does not kick on ?, either the fan is locked up ?, or the control box that sits right next to the c.d.i. is bad ?.

early ranchers had a bad shift drum design. if the problem is not found at the front cover ?, then its gonna be inside the engine. OR !, your clutch is not adjusted right ?, or plates sticking ?.

biggest issue you face is locating a c.d.i. for it !. all oem c.d.i.'s are discontinued now, its used or china..lol. i'd advise you to replace the came chain if it has not been changed ?. it may need a oem fuel pump ?, those are pricey !..lol. deff make sure it has a good, charged battery to fire and run !. if you need any parts ( no fenders )..holler at me. main thing i hate about the 1986 model ?, is most drive line parts will only work on that year model !.

lol, we all should go over there, and vote for it !..lol.

need rear rake shoes with new return springs, a good sanding/clean up of the drum, will be good on the brake area. all castle nuts on atvs ( most anyway ) are put on with an impact, you don't need heat ( unless the nut is rusted on the axle ? ) to remove them. as for the foot brake lever ?..well..yeah..these are a royal pain to get moving once they seize !!. it deff will take a bottle of map gas, and a ton of curse words to get them off..and cleaned up, greased, put back on. if you go the heat/gas way ?, watch out for seals on both sides of the lever, and some have a plastic bushing on the shaft stud. i normally heat the crap outta that lever on the stud, work it up and down with a mallet to get it free'd up, then use a pry bar behind the lever between it, and the frame, and work it back off the stud as i am hammering it up and down. if and when i get it off ?, i then drill, tap out a spot for a grease fitting ( zerk ), then i never worry about them rusting out again !.

ok, i never trust just any seller when it comes to oem parts..unless i buy from a repeat seller..which most times it is rmatv, and if they do not have it ?, then i bite the bullet, and purchase from partzilla.

you said you replaced the angle sensor...is this part from honda ( oem ) ?, or ebay china ?. if from ebay china ?, then that is one of your problems right there !. stay far away from china parts !!.

just pray it holds up ?!. manual shifts are a true and proven design, electric shifts and auto's have not held up.

is it out of warranty ?, if not ?, take it to the dealership. if its out of warranty ?, re-set the ecu/c.d.i. service manual ( which i doubt we have here ? ) will show you how to re-set these.

again, my money say's fuel is not reaching the carb. you can spray some starting fluid into back of carb, turn it over, if it fires up a sec or two ?, then no fuel is reaching carb, i know these models inside out.