shadetree

got a few parts in today, enough to build the bottom end almost complete, need my oil seals which i'm waiting on. here is what i got done tonight just now, i'm beat.

oh..and he '' jerry '' rigged the choke with some china junk too..lol.

haha...i watched him tear that down..i got on his butt !!..lol. watched him take the rocker box off..first thing he did when putting on the newer rocker box..WAS PULL THE DECOMPRESSION LEVER DOWL ROD OUT OF THE ROCKER BOX !..OMG..LOL. a few other mistakes i watched him make..and pointed them out to him..he needs to stick with lawn mowers i guess ?..cuzz he sure as heck does not know anything about the old school trx350's !!!..lol. AND HE WENT IN BLIND ?...NEVER GO IN BLIND !!!.

no one makes after market cv joints on the front end, and there is only two joints on the outside end. DO NOT BELIEVE WHAT YOU READ ON EBAY..THEY LIE FOR FITMENT !. 12 inch rims is max you can put on these without a lift...please do not lift it..the u-joints can't take it.. i could locate you some front and rear oem u-joints, but shipping and cost won't come cheap to alaska !..lol. these are solid atvs..but finding parts for them are almost imposb, least new oem anyway.

my money say's the end of the shift drum has broken off back at the gear position switch inside the case....very common on the trx350 ranchers. you can remove the rear stator case to check the end of the shift drum with a standard screw driver too see if you can spin the slotted end from the back.

send me a pm with yer cell number, i'll walk ya through it !.

nah bro..don't send me anything..just you finding the problem is payment enough for me !. you can donate to the forums here through paypal..that helps us keep the lights on..lol.

yep, at this point, i would weld a grade 8 nut to the front of flywheel, use a grade 8 bolt through the grade 8 nut to pop the flywheel off.

good deal, plz keep us updated on what you find out !.

do not know what happened to this motor..other than being sunk ?, the piston was trashed.

just placed an order for a top end kit, complete engine gasket kit, d.i.d. cam chain, complete engine oil seal kit. cleaning off old gaskets now, and cleaning cases up, sigh..they are a mess !. spent 3 hrs yesterday just brushing the rust off all the rusted inside parts. crank is good !, that saved us a lot of cash. i still need to order an ignition switch, see about a muffler, air box, air filter, and no telling what all else it will need ?..sigh. i'll keep this thread updated as i go, stay tunned..same bat time...same bat channel !.

it had a an air box at one time...but i swapped my bad one for the one off this..and the muffler..to make that last 450fm i sold for 4k. no snorkels were ever on this.

haha..yeah..its pretty nasty ( or was for the most part ), owner sank it..then i guess tried running it.

its a male and female connector, just under the female lip is a tang..lift up on it..then pull the male part out..its simple.

tag him, @AKATV

as long as they are in neutral ?, pull them all day long.

ah yes, the pleasure of fixing some one's atv that they thought it was a boat !?.. just picked this up from catfish this morning , got the motor out and split, try not to puke ?!

right side, right behind your right leg , under right side panel, there is a metal bracket, these connectors use a stupid plastic clip either holding it on the bracket , and holding them together. look on the side of the connector where they fit together, pull up/press up the short tab, then pull them apart.

tjp, number # 16, the tip on it, they break off. you will need drop rear swing arm, pull stator cover off back of engine. either raise the back up really high ?, or drain the engine oil ?. drop the rear swing arm, pull the rear stator cover to access the shifting shaft from the left side. once the stator cover is removed, remove # 19 bolt and # 21 part, slide # 10 shaft out, then pull # 16 out from the rear of engine, my money say's the tip broke off.

the wheel on the shifting arm is too big. just guessing by the fich ^^ ?, it looks like the nipple off the end of part # 4 in this fich ^^. i'll study the micro more through out the engine.

inspect to see if you are getting plenty of fuel flow from the tank to carb ? ( use old oem carb ! ), you can buy a shindy rebuild kit to rebuild the old oem carb. fair warning : almost all trx350 ranchers has/had a bad float needle seat valve ( pressed into the carb body ), you can polish the bottom of the brass seat, see if that helps the float needle.

stay far away from after market carbs..dang near everyone is made in china...not worth it at all !.

is the link good or not ?, i'd like to donate , but i want to make sure it goes to the right person !..lol

right here..lol.

unless you are not going to re-use them ?, then yeah..razor them off. if you are going to re-use them ?, take the end cap off, slide a small thin, long screw driver under the grip as far as you can work it, then take a wd-40 straw, slide it in right next to the screw driver, spray it, , pull the screw driver out, give it a small twist, grip will slide right off.