shadetree

oh..and these vin numbers also help you make out which version trx300fw you have ?, depending on what the numbers are out to the side ?, will tell you if you have a A version ?, or a AN version ?.

once you have yer vin number, go to rocky mountain atv, find your year model, drop down, make, drop down, then you will see a list..out to the side is a list of numbers, these are yer vin numbers that match that model/year/make, the numbers will not all be in order ?, so you have to pick from the model list that starts out with the numbers that closely match your vin numbers. have i lost ya yet ?..lol.

depending on what model trx300fw you have ?, will say which c.d.i. will run on yer atv. there are some trx300fw that has an A after the model, and some have AN after the model. a quick look-up of yer vin number on rocky mountain atv when looking up the correct c.d.i. will narrow it down as to what correct c.d.i. fits on your atv. and of course..finding leaking carb problems helps too..lol.

I just looked at the 1993 trx300fw c.d.i. on partzilla, i noticed they had two versions of c.d.i's on the list...one covers a few years ( no 1988 in there ) the other c.d.i. covers ..guess what ?..ONLY 1993 TRX300FW !.

i've had my hands on a few 88's..i know for a fact that the c.d.i. for this year model is a one year only c.d.i. I DON'T CARE WHAT EBAY..AMAZON..OR ANY OTHER SELLER CLAIMS ?..I KNOW THIS FOR A FACT !.

you cant go by those first letters on the box..you need the whole part number.

Honda 30410-HC4-003 - IGNITION CONTROL MODULE | Partzilla.com bam !.

say's on my screen..only 1988

if ya go to partzilla.com , look up a 1988 trx300fw, then the c.d.i. then click on that, you can clearly see. that c.d.i. ONLY fits that year model.

that i do not know ?..but i do know 1988 is a one year only.

ok..i lied...that was not my last post in this thread..for anyone not aware of ?. the 1988 trx300fw was a ONE YEAR ONLY C.D.I. !. i know this for a fact.

one last time, and i'll leave this thread alone, my money say's the c.d.i. is the problem ?, or its a carb issue ?. i know you said you swapped c.d.i.'s, carbs, all that..but again..the c.d.i. is what controls the spark all throughout the rpm range. what ever the problem is..its a fuel issue ?, or electronic issue..that is where my money is.

YES !!!!. you can not run it without a battery !!!, you run the risk of burning out the stator , reg/rec..this is very important !. yes..folks run them without a battery..yes...they will run without a battery...YES..this is a very big NO NO !. DON'T RUN THE ATV WITHOUT A BATTERY !!.

I can't say i've had this problem lately ?, but i can say this, when i tear an engine down, i look over every inch of the part/area i am working on. it's the small things that will come around and bite ya on the back side if you are not paying attention !. never...EVER...rush an engine rebuild.

no, a bad fuse wont stop it from sparking on top end. it will either spark ?..or it wont spark..simple as that.

i'm down for fishe's place...maybe i'll finish putting that 300 back together for him while i'm there ?..lol.

i'm 57..some days..i feel 157..lol.

shush !!..lol.

try unplugging the carb heater, see if the fuse still blows ?.

lol, he's in his 30's if my memory is still good ?..lol.

haha..lord..i can't even guess how many times ( in the past ) that i put an engine all back together..only to find out it would not move ?!..lol. been there..done that !.

my money say's not having a battery fried the reg/rec, NEVER, EVER RUN THEM WITH OUT A BATTERY !. stick with oem electrical parts..stay far away from china junk. one thing i have learned in all my years of rebuilding atv's ( honda mostly ), is to have everything...AND I MEAN EVERYTHING !, from the battery to the ignition switch oem, this includes the wire harness, all in good shape. i know some oem parts new will be hard to replace ?, but there is good places that sell used parts that are oem, i'd start replacing all these parts back to oem, then see where ya get ?.

1993 trx300fw's are a hit and miss on c.d.i.'s, one of the worse years for them. are you using a oem c.d.i. ?, or are these after market ? ( china ). i can tell you right now, most of the problems you are having is related to rpms, which are built into the c.d.i.'s. my money say's its the c.d.i. you MUST have a 1993 oem c.d.i. for this to run out through all rpm's.

most times ( in all my years of engine building ) cylinder to ring gap is pretty common...YOU MUST HAVE SOME GAP !. but !!!, its not critical either..what is critical is the end gap. the oil rings is where you must focus. i'm not saying the other two rings should not be checked ?!..but you start with the oil rings. if the oil rings are loose, large end gaps ?, what will happen is oil gets past the top two rings..and ..well..here you have a smoking engine. I ALWAYS CHECK MY RING END GAP !. if they are wide ?, then i will not waste my time installing them. and no..i do not use feeler gauges !..lol. i go by sight..you just learn what will work ?..and what wont work in 30 yrs of doing this..lol.

i never go by ring clearance on cylinder walls..why ?, because i always have my cylinders freshly bored..lol. what i DO check: is end gap on the new rings, even brand new rings from the factory has been known to be off.