shadetree

rebuilding a carb is very easy.

old news, where you been jeep ?..this was covered many moons ago..but still..ty for the pic's for all the newbies.

you are very welcome :-).

OP, depending on how much you want to restore, spec yourself ?, it can cost you nothing at first, then go all the way to 2k in a heartbeat !. never, EVER..think you will restore an atv cheap...wont happen !. ( all this is if you are like me, and you stay oem, replace with new parts from honda ? ), otherwise, you tossing the dice on used parts. if cash is a problem?, then yeah..i can see you going used parts. which ever way you go ?, you are deff in great hands here for advice !.

rofl, i seen that shiny new carb as well..china i bet too !..lol.

lol, that is your spark plug coil :-).

welcome to the forums.

don't need to do anything but tilt it on its right side, pull the foot rest, shift lever, then remove the left side cover. BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN YOU PULL LEFT SIDE COVER, YOU DO NOT WANT TO PULL THE SHIFTING SHAFT OUT AT ALL WHEN YOU PULL THE LEFT SIDE COVER !!!. you only need a gasket for the left side, maybe ?, some yamabond for where the wires come out the top of the side cover...DO NOT USE RTV SEALANT !.

but, what about the thrust washers ?, once he pulls the shaft out, all the thrust washers will fall into the engine. as for even getting the shaft out without pulling and splitting the engine ?, i don't see how he will get around this. reason: the shift shaft slides into the rear engine cover, mates to the side shaft. on each end of the shifting shaft is a thrust washer, and both of these have to be placed/stacked. i don't see an easy way to change out this shaft without splitting engine.

my money say's he had his hands on the spark plug when he cranked it !..rofl.

out of time, bent rod is very common on these ranchers. not enough compression., valves bent or out of adjustment ?. with going by the year model ?, i'd say its worth no more than 500 all day long.

if they are that dry rotted ?, then why not replace them ???. sigh.

i WILL NOT use slime. my trick is grease the heck outta both the tire bead and rim bead, never had a tire leak on me yet. the best part of this ?. when it comes time to break them down ?, its very easy to pop the bead off the rim !.

sold !!!

yeah, i'm gonna say they are talking about the fan motor, not the engine motor.

its on 22-3 in my service manual, maybe i am reading it wrong ?.

yes..but it says..'' cuts power to engine '' so..in order to do that..it has to go through the c.d.i. right ??. or is it talking about the fan motor ?..it does not say clearly huh ?.

here it is, it only applies to '' after '87 models on the 350's.

hmmm..according to the honda service manual in the tech section for the old trx350's, it clearly states that in the event of an over heating ?, the fan control unit shuts the c.d.i. down, i'll have to dig my manual out when i get a chance, and read it again.

LOL, i did edit it, i was asleep at the wheel..lol.

last update..i hope ? : too many days have gone by, no word from this guy after he put a 500 dollar deposit down, he was suppose to be here tuesday to pay and pick up ?, i waited all day to hear from him..nothing !. i finally sent him a text late last night, pretty much told him ( short version ) '' if ya do not come pick this 450 up..and pay the remaining balance by thursday, i will list it on cl's full price, get the 500 back to you ( when i fill like it ), and you can kiss it goodbye '', well, he called me lastnight, all sorry and crap..said he'd be here today--this afternoon some time ?, and pay me the 3500, and pick it up ?..hmm..we'll see how this pans out ?..lol. where has the day gone..when a man's word was his bond ???!. DO NOT TELL ME SOMETHING...AND TURN AROUND..AND NOT FOLLOW THROUGH ?!..THIS IS ONE OF MY WORST PEEVES !.

maybe i need to get back on the short yellow bus ??, but why doesn't most ppl haul their atv in the truck bed ?. unless the truck bed is either too short ?, or they put a tool box in there ?. but yeah..i also have a home built/made tilt bed trailer i made years ago, 5x9, 15 inch tires, 3500 lb axle..love it !.

i'll save you the trouble. clean it all off the top of the engine, go buy a tube of yamabond or hondabond ( DO NOT USE RTV SEALANT ! ), get yer hands on the oil seal for the decompression release lever, the o-rings that go in the valve inspection caps ( 2 ), and there is two small o-rings that are around the rocker shafts ( slotted ends on spark plug side ) that will need replacing ( very common to leak oil ). the hardest part you will face is getting the rocker shafts out of the rocker box, reason : they are held in place by dowel pins ( or used to be ?), and can be tricky to remove. what i do is clamp these pins in my bench vise, slowly turn the rocker box back and forth, while i pull up on the rocker box, this allows me to remove the pins. once the pins are out of the rocker box, then you can pull the rocker shafts out of the rocker box, PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO WHICH ROCKER GOES WHERE !.

i did notice the choke valve was different than the fich calls for ?, i can't run it until after i get the left side back together, and exhaust work done, will be after i get back from the deer woods.

my money say's either the stator is going bad ?, or the c.d.i. is going bad ?.