shadetree

good deal..thank you for listening to our/my/ advice...if it was not important ?, we would not tell you things !. glad ya got it going !.

unless oem parts are not around ?, after market is the way to go. oem pumps are still being sold by honda !. before you rush out and buy an oem fuel pump from honda ?, run a service test like the service manual says to do on the fuel cut-off relay !. right rear tire, above and behind right rear tire, black box, fuel cut-off relay is stuffed inside there !.

they go by vin numbers, not serial numbers, and i did not see any vin numbers on that letter head that was posted ?, but this does not mean they have a list somewhere ?. good deal on going oem from honda !.

i do not see a lock nut where u speak of ??. normally there is two lock nuts on left rear axle, i do not see any left on the axle ?, take a hammer, chisel , beat the metal collar off the axle.

update: well crap, just got the rear diff torn down, and just as i thought, every bearing and oil seal in it is toast !. axle splines are border line from running it ? ( i would not run it in the ring gear ). so, thank goodness catfish still has the rear end to that trx450fm parts bike out at his place, i'll go grab it , and order oil seals, and bearings for this, rebuild my diff, swap out to the parts rear end, he's cool with this. i love it when a plan comes together...sigh..this is why i hate riding atv's in muddy crap, this destroys rear diff's !!!. folks do this, i get it, but just be warned !, if you play ?..you will pay !.

no you can not just put it back together, and fill it with gear oil !, until you get the diff off the axle, split it, so you can replace the bearings and oil seals ?, it will destroy the ring gear and pinion gear. you can not replace the oil seals until you get the diff split, which means !!, you have to get the axle out of the diff, THERE IS NO SHIRT CUTS TO THIS !!. if you do not do as we are saying ?, you will be right back here in no time...TRUST US ON THIS !!!!. the left rear side, those tube collars are suppose to slide off, then you can work the axle out of the right side of the diff.

update: here she is with some fresh paint.

yeah, honda does not give ya much room to work with..this is for sure !.

also check the carb's top ?, sometimes that diaphragm wont sit in the groove in the top of the carb ?, causes air leaks.

means the axle is rusted to the ring gear splines. soak it with some penetrating oil, then hammer the axle out to the right side, so hit the axle ( with castle nut on axle ) with a hammer and block of wood on the nut, axle comes out the right side.

tell that to my sore body lately !!!..lol.

update: got some paint on the frame late yesterday. had to stop, and get to work on the 1982 atc200 carb install. messed with that for a bit, stupid thing would not idle worth a crap ??..top end was great, response was great, but idle was all over the place !..from running good..to rev'ing high..to dieing ?..hmmm..something was not right with it. re-checked all my timing marks, still no go. aghhh !!!. then i got to deep thinking..ok..there is an o-ring under the intake boot, i removed the boot, replaced the o-ring, put it all back together, fine tweaked the adjustments again on air/fuel mixture..BOOM !!..got it to idle perfect !!. then the stupid china pet-cock he put on it was stripped out on the fuel tank ?, grrrr...headed out to catfishes place here soon, will see what we can come up with to solve that problem. owner will be here sunday to pick this atc200 up, drop off the ct90, and a atc200sx motor, wire harness, and give those to me to keep. wants me to try and fix the ct90, we'll see how that pans out ??..lol. i'll post some painted pics of the trx450fm frame later today some time.

it does not convert it to manual shift, its still remains a electric shift.

ok, looks like you got the diff off the atv...correct ?, yes..the axle has to come out, once the axle is out of the diff, then you can unbolt the diff from the swing arm. looks like in yer pics ^^ ?, you got the diff off the atv ?, if so ?, now just remove the small bolts on one side of the diff, two are 14mm, the rest are 12mm, you will need a tube of yamabond to seal the cases back up..DO NOT USE RTV SEALANT !!. once the case half is off the main half, its all down hill from there, no need to replace the pinion seal unless you just want to do all of them ?. there are three oil seals, one is the pinion seal, other two are the carrier bearing/axle oil seals on each side the the diff where the axle pokes out. total of 4 bearings in this diff, two are for the pinion gear, other two are for the ring gear on each side where the axle rides in the diff.

there should be an emergency shifter tool under the seat, it fits on the left side hex shaft behind the foot rest. service manual you can down load from the site here. i would remove the cover over the transfer gears, clean out all the old factory grease, put some fresh grease back in, see if that helps ?. also, make sure the battery is fully charged ?, they don't like weak batteries !.

did you not read the post above ^^^, about the fuel pump recalls ?, stop with the auto crap, look into them replacing your pump free of charge ?, or install an oem pump, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME WITH AN AUTO PUMP...SIGH.

please tell me..you are NOT installing this auto fuel pump in this atv ??!!!...sigh.

agreed^^^, do not buy anything until you get the diff off, split, then see what all you may, or may not need ?. one thing i have learned in my 30 yrs of doing this, its ALWAYS best to tear the project down, inspect it, see what i need ?, THEN ORDER PARTS !. can't tell you enough, on how many times i have in the past, dig in, order parts, then find out i need more parts !..lol.

update: oh look, she shed her cloths !..lol. got her stripped down to bare frame, got first wash on the frame, will hit it again with my super clean, then get it prepped for paint, still need to get the lower steering bearing out, re-pack some fresh grease in that, then i can start painting the frame. here is a few pics of her down to bare frame before i washed it first go-around. you can also see the '82 atc200 big red in one pic, tracking shows carb kit out for delivery today ?, I hope it is, then i'll get that finished up, be ready for him to come get it, he's also gonna bring me a honda ct90 he wants me to fix..man..i'm going backwards on project year wise !!..lol. its cool though..i love old honda stuff.

gonna sticky this important info !. honda has had tons of problems from the fuel pumps ever sense they came out with the trx420.

update: well, been pretty busy lately, between finishing the trx300fw, rebuilding catfishes friends 450, and now have a 1982 atc200 in my shop waiting on a carb kit ?, i have not done much to this 2004 trx450fm project, i did place a couple large order's for brand new oem parts for this project, got them all in, but as of right now, its all on hold until i get this atc200 out of my shop. this belongs to my hunting bud that is letting me hunt on his property down south, so it gets top priority in repairs. carb kit shows to be here monday ?, i hope to have it back in, and running , then i roll the trx450fm frame back in, and finish tearing it down to bare frame. will keep this thread updated as i go.

welcome to the forums, you are in great hands here !.

you do know, we can enlarge the pages with the scroll wheel , and hold down the ctrl button...right ?.

could be a bad gear position switch ?, could be a bad angle sensor ?. another reason i hate es models, nothing but trouble from them. can also be a bad c.d.i..

i've heard of dennis kirk. what is their shipping charges compared to rmatv ?. i stick with rmatv, they even have bonus bucks, no one can beat them that i know of ?.