adam

Ok... so I'm basically just after some emotional support. Someone to pat me on the back and tell me everything will be ok - but go and split the case again. I checked all the gears were shifting fine before bolting the case back together. No problem. See, the thing is when you shift with the engine on its side all the gears were resting down in their correct position. But after bolting her back up I sat the motor right and had another go at shifting through all the gears. All shifted ok except 5th - which just spun freely. Then back down again and into reverse. All ok. Except no 5th! Then I noticed the countershaft had slop. About 3mm of back and forth. When pulled out, 5th would engage. When pressed in, it wouldn't. So when the motor was on its belly, the gears were in the right spot and all was well. Until I turned her upright there must have been a slight movement along the shaft to avoid finding 5th. I am just going to leave this here and await some comforting words of wisdom from you fine folk before testing it down again next weekend.

I'm having trouble checking the gears. Rotating through the shift drum isn't really identifying gears easily. The drive shaft isn't giving me much - it rotates slowly on a couple of gears but others it locks up. What direction should the drive shaft go with forward gears? Also what direction should the shift drum go from 1 through to R? I thought it was ok previously so I sealed the two halves together - looks like we're splitting again!

Legend . Thank you!

Hey guys, Can anyone spot this oil seal on the spare parts map? It's the output shaft oil seal but I can't make sense of the parts diagram and need the part number. Cheers!

Awesome- thanks for the advice!

I've back tracked a little and decided to tear down a little further to clean more of the old sludge out of the case. Should I use a press (as directed in manual) to remove the crankshaft/balancer assembly or would a good whack with a hammer knock it out?

With both halves still separated and the gears exposed? I have manually rotated the shift drum and it seems to change through gears fine - however I can't tell what gear it's in, and reverse, etc. just to confirm each gear selection is successful.

So guys I'm putting the crank case back together but just want to check when you think it would be possible to test the gearbox operates ok. Everything is back in place but I just want to be sure the gearing works properly before I seal it and bolt it all up. What method is used for testing/running through gears? Cheers

That would be great 👍 I'll message you...

Maybe I could manufacture one?

I need to replace an oil filter screen 15421-HN5-671... These are discontinued and the only ones I can find are used and will cost AU$60 ... Can anyone suggest an alternative or know of a different model that might work? Or and other options? Cheers guys

Thanks for that.. No doubt you'll be fielding plenty of questions as I piece the puzzle back together!

Can I get an ID on this guy by any chance?

Thanks for the advice! I think it is baked on oil. The piston top is pretty black and cooked also..

G'day fellas, I've turned my attention to reassembling the engine as I received the replacement shift drum the other day. How do you feel about the sludge on the walls? What has caused this? Should I bother cleaning most of it off or maybe run an engine flush through it once it's rebuilt? Also, take a look at the shift drum.. there is a fair bit more wear on the replacement than the original one. Do you think this would be an issue? Cheers legends!

Thanks mate for clearing that up. I made a tool like you described to remove it in the first place but I don't think it will hold up on tightening.

Hey guys, Couple of questions... When tightening the swingarm pivot lock nut, is there an alternative to purchasing the tool (see link)? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/262698830520?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=8uuBLBV_Q4y&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=TdxnQh9FQ26&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY You need to hold the pivot bolt while the lock nut is tightened and I can't think of any other method.... Also, does anyone recognise these bits? Thanks in advance!

Hey guys, Just need a bit of advice on this.. installing the front lower arm and torquing the bolts to the specified 44 Nm, there is no free-play on the pivot point. It does however have a bit of a spring action (returning to where it starts). Does this sound right or should it be free swinging? Also, it doesn't specify grease on the pivot bolt.. though this would be required due to friction?

Yeah perfect - just ordered it. Here we go, momentum! 😄

https://quadbitz.co.nz/products/honda-trx300-shift-drum-forks Just found this - not far from me (only 5000km across the ditch!)... doesn't have the year but looks pretty close. What do you think?

Yeah from the way I interpret the user manual, shifting with the manual over-ride will disable the ES system which can be reset by powering off and then on again. I'm just wondering what caused the shift drum shaft to snap off in the first place. They seem to have very little resistance against the shift sensor.

Does shifting manually risk damaging the ES system?

Hey guys, I need a new manual shift shaft - can someone please confirm the part required? I think it might be 24611-HN5-A10 but not 100% sure... To be clear it's the shaft used to shift the box when the ES is not working/flat battery, etc.. You use the tool provided. The previous owner welded a peg to it so it could be used to shift manually by foot. Seriously.

It was great fun when it was running. Loads of power! Great for the beaches down here.

Thanks for the tips! I'm in Bremer Bay on the south coast of Western Australia. Probably about as far away from anywhere else in the world!