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jeepwm69

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Everything posted by jeepwm69

  1. Fixed it for you fish. And @professorpg are you having trouble from your 424 or were you just curious about it? Bearings and seals can be bought separately on ebay. I bought a used one and rather than spend $100+ on a rebuild kit I just bought new bearings and seals, and cleaned and lubed the old cable. For your particular machine I like this mod. Several of us have done it on the 350 Ranchers.
  2. Yep. sounds like the slide is either sticking or has a hole in it.
  3. If the machine is that nice (assumption based on the miles) you could always buy new plastics for it, or find some nice used ones. If you went green it holds up MUCH better to age.
  4. Yeah, he has some good detail on this site, but you have to navigate to it. Doesn't look like I can link directly to the part where he has the wrap "how-to" http://www.shed-headz.com/
  5. 2A denotes camo plastics. So that's a 420 Rancher AT, non power steering (the FPA denotes the machine with power steering). "A" would be solid color plastics, and "2A" is camo plastics.
  6. 424, originally made by Warn, but now sold by a company called Wide Open. Rebuild kits are available. What particular machine do you have?
  7. https://www.hondaforeman.com/threads/foreman-camo-wraps.85811/#post-690559 It looks good, but I'm not convinced it would age well. Once you get some scratches in that wrap, with pink showing underneath, it's going to look like crap. I have a pink 2012 Rubicon. I was going to try the 90 degree razor blade followed by heat on the pod light cover, see how it looks.
  8. The project bike I bought runs but doesn't move, according to the previous owner. I haven't done anything with it at all except roll it off my trailer and to the back of the yard. If I had to guess either the oil pump chain is off or the Hondamatic is trashed. Front fender had a snorkel hole so might have been sunk and ruined the Hondatmatic. I got it cheap. Will part it out if it's going to be too expensive to fix. Going to tear it down sometime in the near future. Have two 500 Footshifts I'm rebuilding to sell first.
  9. Hope it helps you out. This Rubicon is a project so front fender had to come off anyway. Keep us updated!
  10. I think you can see the front and back rows Middle row, from outside in Light green White (maybe grey) Pink/ blk trace Blk/white trace Yellow/ blu Yellow blk Brown/white
  11. Nope. Looks like they are 350D specific. https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/91101-HA7-672?ref=1f2fe718b2ac708def71e24265b9b700c263e51a
  12. Wonder if your gear position switch is going bad. My other thought is that the blue switch is bad and intermittently connecting, which is confusing the ECM @toodeep has chimed in on this kinda thing in the past when @basfnb was having trouble with his Rubicon not running right in reverse.
  13. @retro and @Melatv are the two wiring gurus. Throw @AKATV in there too. They're all pretty handy when it comes to all the electro stuff that we all don't like working on.
  14. Welcome aboard. If nobody here chimes in I'll get the front fender off the 2012 I have (maybe 2013? Can't remember) and take some pics for you.
  15. Been tinkering a little the last couple of mornings. Yesterday I tore the rear brake panel down on my kid's 350 Rancher. The new EBC pads I put on had the friction material come off of the lower shoe which was dragging and binding up the rear end. Very disappointed in those EBC shoes. Won't be buying them again. Have some OEM rear pads on the way. Today I had a completely fubar'd rear brake panel from a 500. Seized cam pin, seized shoes, clogged vent, bad bearings. I hate working on these things when they're seized up. If you aren't careful with them, they disintegrate since they're just cast aluminum, and it's hard to get all that stuff apart when it's been seized up for years without getting rough with things. Anyhow, got the cam pin pressed out and wire wheeled,lightly greased and reinstalled with a new seal and dust felt, shoes off, pins cleaned and lightly greased, holes in shoes polished out, resinstalled, new bearings put in, and drilled out the vent. Tedious process for something that won't last/ work for long, but since this will go on a bike I'm selling I wanted it to work well. I guess if someone used it for pasture/farm use and stayed out of the water with it the rear brake will stay functional.
  16. Guy in West Memphis is parting out a blue 350D. He even had the side covers, but I think he's sold those. Not sure about the fenders. Shane Jones. He's on bookface.
  17. That's me. I can go into the shop to measure something and come back out looking like that.
  18. Those are 07-13. The newer ones apparently don't fit from what I've read.
  19. I get the valves out, put the grinding compound on, then push the valve back into the head. I put a short length of vacuum hose in my drill chuck that is a firm fit on the end of the valve. Then I slowly spin the valve using the drill to grind. Remove, clean up, reinstall.
  20. Syn is easier to deal with. Wire lasts a lot longer. I use wire. The winches on my Jeeps are from the 70's and my wire is still fine. I don't think synthetic will have that kind of longevity.
  21. Put some EBC brake shoes on the kid's 350 Rancher when I rebuilt it. As most of you know, this project was a loooong time from start to finish. That said, probably doesn't have 20 miles on it since I replaced these pads and the dang brake material separated from the shoe. Looked around online and looks like this is pretty common with EBC brake pads. I'm disappointed. Thought they made quality stuff.
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