Bassman8990

Thats a good point. I'll check the lines going into the fuel bowl. It hasnt done it anymore in a while. Wondering if a little trash got in the system

I'll check idle control on the throttle body. I don't have an 02 sensor on mine

Process of elimination

You are correct, i don't have an o2 going to exhaust

May not but i believe the 2013 does. If im not mistaken that clip on side of the frame is the O2 sensor

Thats just an oem update. The original Fuel filter attached at the very bottom of the fuel pump & would collect sediment. The update oem one has an attachment on bottom the fuel pump that the fuel filter attaches to & it makes the fuel filter vertical beside the fuel pump instead of horizontal on the very bottom.

Haha yea its fuel injection. But i already updated the fuel filter to the sideways mounted one instead of the one that sits on the bottom of fuel pump reservoir

Haha probably

Haha yea its EFI so no Carburetor. May change o2 sensor & Coil & try that. My dad seems to think it's a coil also due to it getting to operational temperature before it starts stall. He use to work on lawnmower engines. But ATV's are a different beast. IS sounding like a clock a good thing lol

https://youtu.be/YiJD9swLT84

Thats a good point didn't think about O2 sensor, i believe it has one. I'm new to EFI atvs also, use to carburetor. I'll definitely look into the O2 sensor

I checked the spark plug, gap & boot also. I'll definitely go OEM

That's what i thought, coil is where I'll probably start since its the easiest to change out

Yea i just changed fuel filter & o rings couple months ago. Barely ridden it. Just got it back from the shop getting valves adjusted & throttle body cleaned. Didn't do that before the shop. Really dont want to take it back. They had it for 2 months due to being behind.

I thought about that but wouldn't the fuel pump cause it to do that all the time & not just when it gets hot?

https://youtu.be/YiJD9swLT84 hey everyone i have a 2013 Rancher 420. The issue im having is when it warms up it wants to stall out. It fires right up & idles fine, but once its hot & the fan kicks on thats when it acts like it wants to stall. Does that sound like a coil going bad? In video as long as i stay in the throttle it'll stay running, when i get ready to come to a complete stop it idles very low & almost dies, i have to maintain throttle to keep it running. Only does it after its been running awhile & hot

Yea i may have been off but when i rotated crank to the next "T", both rockers had slight play,which is per manual as an indicator of being in the correct TDC. But i went back & double checked & reset them again on the correct TDC. Also found i had a bad exhaust valve... in video above.

@shadetree is this what you were talking about as far as the bad valve seat? My exhaust valve has a good bit more play upward play than the intake valve @ TDC on compression stroke. Thats after they were both adjusted to spec

@Fishfiles Yes i missread & i know the difference lol. I hardly ever used a torque wrench on anything, but i was just asking, i know somethings its best torque & some it dont matter.

@ melatv, yea my bad, my manual says 13, i missread. I did get the valves set but haven't started it yet because of having to get a section of fuel line that needed replaced. At first i accidentally set the valves on the "F" mark instead of TDC "T" mark, thought it was the T at first. So i turned the crank clockwise & set valves on the compression TDC. I'm hoping i didn't screw the timing up, by setting it at the F at first instead of TDC

So i got to timing hole & as im turning the crank clockwise i see 2 lines on the crank, then i keep turning clock wise & even see an F, then continue to turn clockwise then a short turn i see the T. I check the rockers & no movement, rotate 360 degrees back past the F & to the T again. The F looks just like the T, i accidentally set them on the F initially, then realized of turned crank again 360 degrees & set them on T when both rockers did have play in them, haven't started it yet, need to replace a fuel line. Hopefully i didn't throw off the timing, if so will have to take it to shop to get it retimed🤦‍♂️. Getting to the exhaust valve was a pain, probably wont ever do that again lol

Got it thanks. Also on that nut, i know it has to turn clockwise but that is closewise when looking at it from the read? Also Anyone know what size hex head i need for the cap for the Sight hole for TDC

Haha. Oh & When i take the back cover off to turn the crank clockwise to get the correct TDC, is that a special tool or just a normal socket that i put on the emd to turn it?

Casper...Yea ill change the yelow cover & possibly the ignition coil while im at it. @ jeepwm69.. i noticed the manual mentioned tightening the nut on the valve adjustment to 9inch pounds. Is torquing it to that exact spec necessary? I only ask because i can't find a torque wrench that goes that low. Most im finding is 20in/lbs, even on the quarter inch Torque wrenches.. Mine doesn't smoke at all, nor is it a hard start which is why im hesitant to check the valves but i am going to run some seafoam through it since there is carbon build up on the butterfly of the intake on the throttlebody

Can yall give me advice on drain & removing the fuel tank? I just dont want to make a huge mess & have gas spraying everywhere. I saw on YouTube one guy turned his fuel off then just disconnected the reserve line from on top of the fuel pump then attached a fuel hose to it then opened reserve & drained fuel from tank into a gas jug?? That sound right? Or one way of doing it