Pampas56

I guess I don't understand. Because this site shows no ads, I thought we were not beholding to ANY outside influences. Therefore , who was able and willing to erase this thread. I thought Free Speech was important here. Am I Wrong? Steve Bauer

Definitely a fire hazard. The devices mounted to a wood surface would not pass NEC after WW2. It is legal in the sense that it may have passed code before the great depression, but touching it other than to screw the Edison base fuses in and out would require updating the installation. If it was my family, replacement would be the proper response. Remember the NEC and our primary objective is to keep the smoke in and things intact. Judging from ONE picture, I would GUESS that one of the fuses in the box on the left is burned out. That is where I suspect the "service entrance" would be. I would kill that disconnect and replace EVERYTHING else! First thing would be a fireproof substrate and/or a 100 amp panel. then rewire out to each circuit. Again, if you are not sure of your ability/knowledge, talk to your local "Sparky" for answers and help. Good luck and BE CAREFUL Steve

I like the purple hand grips! Oh, wait. I guess the bike has them too.

It is not wizardry as much as science and atomic theory. Explaining what it is and how it flows is less important than what it CAN do and how to deal with that. Electricity is expressed as potential energy. It is stored or generated at a pressure (voltage) and Volume (amperage). The biggest thing to know is that voltage is ALWAYS looking to release its pressure by going to ground potential. It doesn't care what the path is, it wants to go to ground. Amperage is how much energy is trying to go to ground. It is what does the work/damage. I worked under the NEC (National Electrical Code) which has been around since the turn of the last century, early 1900's. The interesting fact is it was written by electrical engineers and tradespeople, but at the request/behest of the NFPA (National Fire Protection Association)! Fire companies were sick and tired of putting out the fires AND putting themselves in danger doing so. My primary goal as an electrician was to keep the magic/smoke in check. A working device/circuit was secondary to not causing damage or injury. If I haven't glazed your eyes over already, later we can talk about AC/DC, generation, transmission, and distribution of electricity. After that I can talk about transformers and single phase, poly phase and three phase systems and how they interact. Hope this simple overview doesn't overwhelm anyone. THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER IS DON'T GO THERE, IF YOU ARE NOT SURE WHAT YOU ARE DOING! ELECTRICITY DOES NOT CARE OR FORGIVE.

Judging from the picture's format being mid to late 50's, I would say early to mid 30's. 1934 plus or minus 4 years. The car however, I have no clue.🤔😉

I think it's called "Everything Chainsaws".

Janis Joplin

that, two cresent wrenches and a BFH was about what I had for a tool set before 21

Local BBQ joint. Excuse the crappy picture. It's Washington and it rains! Steve

Actually, I could tell from the side moulding. Sometimes that and badging were the only difference. Often they ALL came down the same assembly line. A guy on my gm truck forum talked about a mid 80s truck that came off the assembly line with a chevy grill and left side badging and GMC badging and tail gate.

The red wagon on Tool time was a 55 Nomad. Until the beam dropped. No one would ever crush a 55 Nomad, so it was switched out for a stunt car. What was crushed was a 55 two door Biscayne wagon. Steve

You are right. The black one IS a 57, however it is a Pontiac Safari. There maybe Olds and Buick models as well. Gm made many cross-model vehicles. Think Camaro/Firebird, Suburban/ Carry-All, or Chevelle/Skylark/Cutlass. You can tell because 57 was the only year with the big fins. Steve

We are looking at three conditions: crank, start, run/kill In order for it to crank the yellow circuit needs to be complete. Parameters are PTO off, Parking Brake on and a pass through the hour meter. This can be bypassed by jumping from the battery terminal on the starter to the YR terminal with a push button or my favorite a flat blade screwdriver. I have started many GM and Mopar rigs this way! Testing starts with checking for voltage at the yellow terminal on the ign sw with the key off, if no voltage turn on and see if you get full voltage. If so go to the YR and check again. If NO voltage OHM out the PTO switch, Parking brake Switch and hour meter yellow wires. White is your run/kill circuit. The parameters are butt in the seat and parking brake off. If both conditions are met, it will run. Losing either one will ground the white wire and kill the ignition. If you get off the seat before setting the brake, YOU DIE. Again test for voltage and ohm out the seat and PB switch. The wire into the seat switch is white and the brown wire goes to the PB switch. It comes out on the black to ground. If this doesn't do it, I will look at the ignition circuit tonight. Steve

If it is wired logically, there will be one or more permissive strings. Sounds like one for start and maybe one for run/kill. I will try to identify the strings and give you some jump points and test points.

email a pdf to [email protected] I retired as a high voltage hydroelectrician. Troubleshooting is FUN!

With Out Knowledge or Experience.

I betcha she is somebody's Gramma!

Them new weight saving aluminium beds are working out great!

We DID tell him don't forget to use the jack and jackstand. He does follow directions!

Given that 1 billion seconds is 31.71 years, 1 trillion seconds will be 31,710 years or about 31 3/4 millennia! Jesus came 2 millennia back, and the Egyptian empire began about 4.3 millennia before that. 29,700 BCE was early in the Paleolithic era. Now a joke: An old guard at a large metropolitan museum told everyone that vase on display was 5007 years old. When asked by the curator how he came up with that number he replied: Simple! When I first came to work here, I was told the vase was 5000 years old. That was 7 years ago! Steve

The parts bike that I got with it has silver with black and red pinstriping. The tank however is implement blue just like the other. I'm not planning on going for a full restoration. Just a nice, better looking paint job on the tank and fenders in a color that I like.

A 1972 XL250 that was rode hard and put up wet. It starts and runs ( 60 mph is a little scary but it pulls like a tractor at the bottom end. Muffler is burnt out and the wiring is atrocious. It is a project at this point, but will be my commuter/trail ride at my daughter's farm in Eastern WA. The blue farm implement paint is going away as soon as everything works. I'm thinking White or Silver/Gray Believe it or not this is the good side.😁

I am looking to buy a spare chain for my 028AV super and need to understand these numbers on the bar. I get that this bar requires .325 chain as opposed to 3/8, but the rest of this is not clear. I see .063 in the lower right. What is that referring to? Does 81 in the lower corner refer to the number of drive links? The big question are bar and chain combos brand specific, or can Oregon chain be run on Stihl bars and vice versa as long as the dog width matches? Sorry if these question are unclear or sound dumb. I am known on my BILs race team as the overthinker, and need to understand as much as I can about most everything. On a side note, I cleaned the saw up, mixed some fresh gas (about 47:1) and filled the oil tank with Tractor Supply house brand bar oil and the saw ran good. I looked at the spark plug and it was gray not tan that I am used to on four strokes. The big thing is it was a Champion CJ14. The internet shows a RCJ6Y? as the Champion plug that crosses to the NGK BPMR7A. Needless to say that got changed out last night for the NGK. Still on the learning curve of starting the saw. Sometimes it starts right away, but I haven't got a set procedure on starting. Any advice or help? I think I am going to like this saw, IF I can figure out what it wants me to do. Kinda like dealing with women. Treat her nice and she'll do most anything for ya. If not, you get all sorts of problems.😂 Thanks Steve

The editor posted the pictures but not the text. This is the saw that I just bought at the local pawn store. Stihl 028AV super with 20" bar, 250 plus tax and it runs and cuts pretty well. The running joke is that I run my saw less time than most of you guys spend filing the saw. I bought this to replace a hard starting Craftsman saw that probably isn't worth fixing. It will sit in the garage for months at a time, but I hope it will start each time by the 5th pull I am not sure what fuel/oil ratio is because i can't find any labels on the saw. My brother and a buddy that clears trees on the powerline run theirs 50:1. Would I be OK with that or would a little more oil be better? I plan to run 30wt oil for bar oil. The 20" bar is fine, but I am curious what the biggest bar is that this saw will handle well. If I run across a deal on a longer bar I would buy it if it would work. Thanks for any help or insights. Steve