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Awrenchturner

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Everything posted by Awrenchturner

  1. Well the the bike is all back together and runs and shifts well. I just wanted to thank everyone who helped me out on fixing my bike. You all have been so much help and I learn many skills from you all on the topic as well as others in the forums. shade, jeep, and Fish a special thanks for your quick and timely responses. However, I have a leak where the oil cooler hose attaches to engine. The o-ring that goes here measures 11x2.5, and I was wondering if I should use Honda brand or if any other brand that I can easily find would work better? I hope that this is all it needs. Thanks
  2. Yup, seems to do as you said Jeep and thanks for the reply fishflies. So i have the case halves back together and the the rear components (chain, flywheel, etc.) in place. When I was putting the rear cover on I over tightened one of the cover bolts and stripped the threads inside the case. Last night I used a Helicoil type thread repair kit and repaired the threads. This morning I am going to get the mating surfaces of the rear cover cleaned again and reinstall it. I have replaced the seals that jeep suggested and I am excited to get this thing back on the road. However, I am wise enough to know that this should not be rushed or I will be doing it again. I have also ordered top and bottom ball joints and tie rod ends for the front. I was just wondering if there are any tips for changing these with limited tools. Thanks (for not throwing too many wrenches at me) ;)
  3. So i have the engine out. I just put the case back together for a second time. The first time I tried rotating the shift drum and it wouldn’t turn at all. This time, I can rotate the shift drum but it does not click and spring back. I can turn it about 250 degrees freely but it pretty much stays wherever I place it. I am assembling the rear crankcase first. Is this right, wrong, or way out to lunch? Thanks
  4. Hey jeep, Fishflies, nice to hear from you as well! I think I might go with a second hand 3.8 gallon parts washer. As for getting the crankshaft back in, in the manual it says to press it in. Are they any alternative ways to reseat the crankshaft without a press?
  5. Hey Shade, nice to hear your voice again (if that makes sense). Do all the innards of the engine have to be washed? If so, what can I do without a parts washer?
  6. Is it okay to reuse the locknuts on the clutches?
  7. Awesome, thanks Shade. Is there a gasket kit that you would recommend for the top and bottom ends? I looked online and found a few different options but I am unsure of what exactly to look for. Thanks
  8. Well, I ordered that transmission you recommended. I also shipped the crankshaft to MrCrankshaft and ordered a crankshaft balancer off of eBay. I am cleaning the case up and making sure I have the parts to get the engine back together. Should I replace any seals or o-rings while I am in here? Thanks.
  9. Awesome, thanks Oh, thanks Iroc, thanks Shade, thanks Jeep. A year later and I am ready to do this right. I split the cases and this is what I found. I believe the two metal shards that jammed the oil pump came off the balancer, and the shift drum is also broken off on one (the rear) side. Where the shift drum was broken off there is a needle bearing. Was wondering if that bearing and all others would be ok and what to look for. I contacted MrCrankshaft and he said to send it to him for rebuild. Anyway, thanks again.
  10. Lol, no worries, was wondering why you deem this crank no good?
  11. Lots of fun lol, Just an update for today with a few pictures. My original plan was to just put everything in/on the engine back together and fire it up just to see if it would run. And I might still do this. However, I looked further into the engine today and found the screen is done, a twisted off bolt from the oil pipe bracket (which I drilled through so far). More... scarring on the connecting rod where the wrist pin sits aaand... two small pieces that came with the hardware pile that I need help identifying (if they even came from this bike). I am still waiting on my tools to get inside the case to arrive, so this is what I can tell you and show you at this point. Thoughts? Oh, and thanks for everyone’s input, it’s all considered and appreciated. You guys are awesome!
  12. Hi, it is another bike, my parts bike. I am thinking about getting it going. Just wondering if it is worth it or not. As for my bike, I just deepened the drain threads with a tap and found a longer M12 plug. So far it holds. I will be rebuilding it over winter, so far I ordered a flywheel puller. I was just going to take this one apart for practice and won’t feel too bad if I mess something up. However, it’s a bit of a jigsaw puzzle as the previous owner sold it to me in pieces. I am missing at least a few bolts from the oil pump and front cover which were both off when I got it. I did get a used oil pump from eBay to see if it will run, I just don’t want to put in top end work and then have the oil pump fail again to redo it all. Hopefully, there are no metal pieces as jeepwm69 mentioned flowing around in the oil which is the first thing that came to my mind when I saw what was left of the oil pump. And, hopefully Shadetree’s guess of the backward oil filter or 87Iroc’s vote of run without oil, or even both are the culprit. Previous owner didn’t say much about it. Just said “the oil pump seized” or something along those lines. At this point, with my experience, fishflies could be right when he said everything could be messed up lol. I guess I won’t know until the rebuild(s). But I also like when he said “Honda are tough”, and this is the reason I think the rebuild(s) can wait for winter at least. What do you all think?
  13. Hello everyone, I am wondering if anyone has any idea of what could have happened to this oil pump. I got this machine from a guy who said the oil pump quit. The piston was black on top and the middle piston ring is somewhat seized in the piston but all are still in tact. The crank still moves well with little side to side play. I had someone with SOME knowledge say to get a new oil pump and piston and put it back together and it should run. The scavenge inner rotor is chipped and the scavenge outer rotor has some roughness where it meets the the inner rotor. I am trying to get this machine going again and I am just wondering what may have caused this? Thanks
  14. Sounds good! Thanks everyone. I’m just gathering tools and parts right now. I am having trouble with finding the D.I.D. cam chain online. I have spent time looking for one but I don’t know where to look or what to look for regarding this chain although I would really like to get one. Thanks again everyone. I appreciate all of your input.
  15. Thanks everyone, I’ll be asking questions for sure. Lol. I do have to gather parts and tools before I do this rebuild, thanks for everything. I am doing more research on this as well as gathering items needed. See you when not if I get into a rut.
  16. Hi, I have recently rebuilt the top end of the engine on my 2001 Trx350fm. I am thinking of rebuilding the bottom end. I was wondering what tools I would need to do so. I don’t have any of the special tools that are in the manual, but am pretty handy in making things work with limited tools. My question is: What tools are necessary in an engine rebuild for this model? Thanks
  17. Thanks everyone, Awrenchturner was just a last minute name I thought of when signing up for the forums. I just thought that I needed a name that would describe me a little. Thanks for asking though Derf.
  18. Hi, okay, so I just rebuilt the top end of my engine. I torqued the oil drain bolt to spec and it has seemed to have stripped the threads of the drain hole. This a 2001 Trx350fm by the way. I have searched the Internet for the better part of the day today to see what was said about this particular model. I have seen some suggestions on here but have not heard of any results. Most of the threads I have read are from 2016 and further into the past. Well, here we are in 2020 with a few advances in engineering. I guess I am wondering if there are any success stories to an at least inexpensive solution. Oh, one last thing: so far the solution that I am thinking of implementing is permanently installing a hollow brass fitting that has threads for another bolt to use as a drain bolt. Of course I would have to notch the permanent fitting to line upwith the cases oil passages around the drain hole. This was an idea I found from another site so I take no credit for the it. An update since, is that I stood the bike up on it’s tears cleaned the drain hole and did not find any cracks. All suggestions and ideas and fail/success stories are welcome. Thanks
  19. Hi, I am fairly new to the quad world. This spring I got a 2001 Honda Trx350fm! I began the “once over” suggested by the previous owner and have not stopped since. The body was a bit rough and the engine sounded ok with 13000 Km/8077 mi on the odometer. The rear rack is welded to the frame on this bike and the tires were three different sizes. Since then, I bought a parts quad with a “blown motor” and a half decent body/tires for the year. I put the motor from the first quad into the second. I noticed a bit of smoke which was not much at all and rebuilt the top end. However, on the break in process and the changing of oils I managed to over torque the oil drain bolt. I will be starting a thread on this matter as I am looking for solutions that don’t require me tearing down and replacing the case. I started the same thread regarding the issue on another site and received some good expert advice to tear down and replace the case. Which I am grateful for, but I am looking for more solutions. Anyway, thanks for reading and I will be posting pictures of my rigs as soon as today. Later.
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