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woodsman1

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  1. Progress report: I finally had the opportunity to remove the motor and took it to a friend who has a clean shop to remove the front cover and also replace the front cover spacer case. We discovered the oil relief valve was stuck with 2 small particles of aluminum. Oil pump and everything else internal checked out ok. Cleaned everything up and reassembled. After reassembly and sitting on the bench, my friend looked at the front case and said you know, we should have pulled the orifice relief valve and checked it before reassembly. Sure enough it is stuck and we are unable to remove it. So, has anyone had experience with removing a stuck orifice valve? If we remove the front cover once again, can we access the valve from the inside? I really cannot see anyway to grab it and pull it out. Any help would be appreciated. .
  2. I finally located the required 8MX1.25 brass fitting to adapt to an oil pressure gauge and was able to run the pressure check at oil gallery bolt 1 on rt. side of engine. With a warm engine, at idle I had 74 psi and 120 psi at approximately 5000 rpm (I do not have a tach but was under the rev limiter). So, I believe this indicates that the oil pressure release valve is stuck. Retro, would you agree with that?
  3. Thanks Retro for the informative response, it is greatly appreciated. May be a couple weeks before I have the time to get into it, but I will update the post when I do. Thanks again!
  4. Thanks for the Welcomes! Using Honda Oil. So here is what I believe started the issue. When I pulled the drain plug to change oil the threads came out with plug. I went to a local auto parts store and bought a self threading oversize drain plug which seemed to work fine but it was a 1/4" longer. At that time I also filled with Valvoline ATV oil. I ran it about 5 miles and the issue began. I pulled the drain plug and cut it down to the correct length thinking it may have been restricting oil flow. At that time I also filled with the recommended Honda 10W-30. It was ok for about 5 miles and then began doing the same thing. It is really is bad in reverse as you have to build good RPMs before it engages. However, even under load, it does not slip once engaged. It does however seem to fall out of gear when backing off throttle until RPMs are raised again. ATV only has 1200 miles on it .
  5. I have looked a numerous posts for Rancher shifting issues but I believe I have a different problem. When shifting into reverse it seems that it does not go into gear, however, if I rev it up, it will actually take hold and go (acts like a stall converter). It does this in 1st also but not nearly as bad as reverse. Once in gear it performs as it should with no slipping, even with a load or resistance such as climbing steep hills. My first thought was a clutch issue but if that were the case, why doesn't it slip under load. Anyone else experience this and how was it corrected?
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