freebo86

Linseed Oil and Paint Thinner. It last's one maybe two washes. Unless you really invest the time and energy into sanding/buffing/polishing the plastic you can bring it back like original.

They have these right at the autoparts store, even Home Depot may in those misc. bins.

Got a new seal coming in tomorrow. And yah, I’ll pull the swing arm again. Talked with the guy at the service he said it wouldn’t hurt to but a bit extra sealant around the lip.. but not sure what kind. Any recommendations? permatex ultra black? Motoseal? Don’t think this is resistive against oil. actually.. nevermind the tech sheet says it is.

Which vent? The crankcase vent? I can’t tell where it’s leaking from without pulling the entire swing arm off.

Well pulled the boot back some, raised the rear wheels. I set a screw driver on the shaft from above and turned the wheels to see if the screw driver would shift indicating a bend/wobble and couldn’t see it. Don’t think the shaft is bent. so would it still be a bad idea to put some motoseal around the lip where the seal slides into the casing?

So my next question, how does this output shaft actually get bent?

Another question, that rear ujoint - is there a specific way which end of it goes towards engine vs. Rear diff or does it not matter?

What about putting a thin layer of MotoSeal in the opening before you installing the seal?

Minor? Lol Possibilities listed so far, bent shaft, worn shaft, bad seal installation, shaft bearing. Or I’m sure there is a few more. Endless. I just don’t have that kind of will or drive in me anymore to keep tackling things only to find something else needs attention. Topped off oil, went for a good ride oil level dropped, boot had oil it in again. I’ll grab a new seal and give it another go. If doesn’t fix it so be it, I just can’t get ahead with this machine no matter how hard I try. In the grand scheme of things, I’d prefer something more comfortable (IRS) so I’ll be in the market sooner than later.

What I meant by dealer is to give me a new seal as maybe the one I picked up was defective.. I can’t keep dumping money into this rig. Just reading the few posts this oil leak issue could be endless it seems with different avenues of possibilities

This may break the camels back. Topped it off with oil. Pulled boot back some and cleaned in by the seal. I raised the bike to tilt it back (so oil is pushing against the seal) and I’ll check it tomorrow morning see if I feel oil seeping. Don’t feel like pulling the whole swing arm to check this. If it’s leaking, I’ll see if the dealer will replace it with a new seal (even though not their fault..) if not I may just keep adding oil.. And then a for sale ad.

well the oil level shouldnt be any different on the dipstick.

Of course! The boot was nice and clean inside.

Not the first time installing seals.. OEM from dealer. cleaned the surface well beforehand, got the new seal and tapped it around evenly until seated..

Nah it doesn’t have that gear oil smell at all

Well went for a rip last night, almost 90 miles and arm stayed in place. However it seems that rear shaft seal is still leaking even after replacement… Just checked the oil level with machine cold and it’s not at the same level it was yesterday cold. Undid the boot screw too push the boot back and there was fluid in there again.. I’m assuming this is oil but hard to tell. Like f***.

No i do not, this one is in foot lbs that's why I'm thinking it may be off as its not intended for low torque requirements.

One thing I thought of.. as mentioned before as I loosen the right pivot bolt, the gap becomes smaller. Now, I used a 3/8s torque wrench to get that initial 7ft-lbs. Technically for something that low in torque I should be using a 1/4" torque wrench for precision so I am wondering may be I am overtorquing it and going past 7 ft-lbs which then is causing the larger gap without realizing as the torque wrench I'm using is not as precise as that low of a value? Just some food for thought.

Nah buddy Nothing else in thermo cleaned the bearing and cavities they sit in.. Don’t understand cryptic bro,

Well that sucks! Got a thing planned tmr going for a rip! Maybe the bike blows up.. guess I’ll take it off again the next day. It does bother me especially since I don’t know what it was prior to disassembly..

Their not. Tapered bearings on both sides. Identical, Made in Japan.

Yah so it’s intermittently failing. If it does it sometimes and not others that’s common, mind did the same thing.

I just went through this. Oil will drain out, if you pull the oil sensor. Remove the skid plate it’s easy access then. The flickering oil light is more than likely your FCU (control unit). You can remove it, bake it for 10min at 450F. Let it cool and reinstall it. If oil flicker stops then it’s this module. The oil light should come on briefly during key ON position and then be off. Ideally you’d never see this light come on again as it indicates high oil temp and the whole point is for the fan to come on and start cooling before all this.

I usually take lots of photos but on this project I didnt.. this is all I have.. why what are you thinking?

I reused my existing ones as they moved freely. I just cleaned them up. They were OEM Made in Japan ones.