SittyDown

Thank you @shadetree that is all great info and all makes sense!! I will post back with results!!

I was happy @Fishfiles, that’s for sure...thank you for that spec!! I think I may not have gotten them perfect, but it was such an improvement I know I’m on the right track finally. I broke the .009 blade on my feeler gauge (trying to bend it) but that’s no big deal. I’m going to get it back at TDC and try it again. After that I’m sure I will need to adjust the carb a little, I’m sure I’ll have more questions! I appreciate everyone commenting here, and for taking an interest in trying to help me!

Hey all, I FINALLY got the chance to work on the Rubicon again! I tried the wet compression test and got no noticeable difference in readings. I had a ‘15 Rancher 420 in the garage so I pulled the plug and tested compression with my gauge to verify that reading—150psi so I knew my gauge was good. Back on the Rubicon I removed the sight plug and the valve inspection covers and found TDC on compression stroke, which took me several tries😂. Once I got it there I noticed no play at all in the rocker arms. I adjusted to .006 and .009 per the manual, retested compression and got 95psi! I decided to see if the machine would start, so put the plug and plug wire back on and it started! It wouldn’t stay running without a little throttle, but that is probably carb adjustment since I also rebuilt the carb while it was down. It seemed a little noisy, so I will double check my valve adjustment and report back...progress!! Big thanks to everyone who has posted here!

Very nice!! I’m glad you got it lined out!

You guys really are great...I learn something every time I’m on here, and usually learn multiple things!

100% agreed! It ran really great through all gears! No smoke whatsoever, and I know the guy I got it from...no issues for years. I will read up on the timing marks...I’m not clear on how to view the mark on the cam when you get to TDC, or if that is even possible without removing another cover?

@Fishfiles I will try that, thank you! I should also add that I had this machine running and riding around. I was trying to see if it would fit in the bed of my Avalanche, and it was running good the whole time. The second time I backed it down the ramps it was sitting there idling for a minute or so then just died without sputtering or making any disturbing noises. I’ll post back here with results. Side note: I am going to have to remove the brackets and drain gutters that hold the factory bed covers on the Avalanche in order for the Rubicon to fit 😂

Well I’ve got an update and it isn’t the greatest news...30psi compression. I should have verified compression properly in the first place. @shadetree I shoulda followed your advice more closely. I got the gas tank cleaned out, and the carb rebuilt, and it did need both those things but of course that isn’t why it won’t start! I’ve been reading in the manual and about to dig in to start checking a few things...if I am reading and understanding right I need to do the following: 1.) Remove sight plug and get timing mark aligned and cylinder on compression stroke. 2.) Check rocker arms and valve clearance (.006 and .009) 3.) Make sure valves and rockers move properly I’m sure there are some things I am missing and I wish I had listened to @shadetree so I could have checked the flywheel key while I was in there, hindsight’s 20/20!! Any other recommendations? Will I be able to see the timing chain to check it once the whole valve cover is off? Thanks again for all the help and taking time to read this!

Update on my carb rebuild with the Shindy kit...my carb was really dirty, and the standard rebuild fixed my fuel leak out the drain hose. I just used carb cleaner and regular Qtips. Buuuuut I have bigger problems unfortunately...check out my other thread if interested!

Wow @jeepwm69 that’s awful generous of you!! But it sounds like I might not need it...I’m in southern Indiana so it sounds like I will probably be ok, you think?

I ran into something else...my carb heater is supposed to read around 15ohms but is reading almost 1000ohms and shows no continuity. Does anyone have any experience with the cheaper ebay units for just the heater? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Heater-Assy-For-Honda-Foreman-Foreman-Rubicon-Rancher-400-450-500/152580232887?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=152580232887&targetid=1071879789501&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9016475&campaignid=11612587842&mkgroupid=111536114365&rlsatarget=pla-1071879789501&abcId=9300457&merchantid=6506734&gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7yCBhDJARIsAMWFScMmgjA0Ykd4IE6dlSeKdHsm1ndknBT2JzSb16vAwxZDU_Dusa0z-EwaAqANEALw_wcB&pageci=3a894062-9a82-4d3a-9027-9c3f60929b0a Here is a link, what do you guys think? I like to buy Honda parts but it’s $46 from OEM, $18 shipped from eBay...

@Wheeler are you still liking the WideOpen unit? I am considering one for my Rubicon...

Just wanted to update and give another thumbs up for the Shindy carb kit...it arrived as advertised and the quality is excellent...the kit even had an extra o-ring (tiny one) and a couple bigger ones I assume for different models. Carb went together great, very nice fit and finish on everything in the kit. As to the OP, my drain screw didn’t look the greatest but I got it cleaned up and hope that fixes my drip. I’m going to take @Fishfiles and @Goober advice and clean my gas tank before I put the carb back on. Probably gonna replace the fuel line too. Will keep y’all posted...

Sounds like a good excuse to eat more ice cream!

@Tim-ANC I ordered a kit from eBay because the seller shipped from Indiana. Here’s a link to it... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shindy-03-043-Carburetor-Repair-Kit-/141746091234?vxp=mtr&hash=item2100b9b4e2 Forgot to add, right at $30 with tax...

I ordered a Shindy rebuild kit last week, hope to have it this week sometime! Will also pay special attention to the drain screw...thanks! @Tim-ANC good to know I’m not the only one 😂

Is there something in particular that causes the carb to overflow into this tube? My 04 Rubicon 500 drips fuel slowly out the tube when the fuel is left on...I am about to rebuild my carb and was wondering if I should pay extra attention to anything related to that issue! Thanks😊

That is pretty dang cool!

Thanks for the reply I missed it! Yes the spark plug is a new NGK iridium.

Hey all, I wasn’t convinced that my spark tester was giving me proper results, so I decided to do it the old fashioned way. I tried to attach a video but didn’t have any luck. I know you can’t tell much from a pic, but the spark is steady and looks just like the pic every time. I took off the valve inspection cover, and the valves are moving. Anybody have any good ideas? My experience is in automotive/truck repair.

WOW! Very nice!!

Wow that lift table is sweet!!! Where’d that come from if you don’t mind? Tell us about it 😂

Welllllll...back to the ol’ drawing board I reckon! I got the Rubicon put back together (new ignition pulse generator, checked wires while I was in there, new seal, new rubber o rings, Ultra Black where the grommet passes through the stator cover) and I am still having the same issue. Intermittent spark, machine will not start on starting fluid, have verified fuel to the carb and compression. I have had this machine running two separate times riding it through the neighborhood (great power), so I hope nothing too bad is wrong! I was sure that the ignition pulse generator was failing the test, but apparently I wasn’t testing properly. I am going to take a video and post it in a bit, so everyone can see this spark issue...stay tuned, and thanks in advance for reading!

Love it! Thanks for the detailed picture...I’ll be sure to give you credit when I do this to mine 😂

Thank you!! Now I’m gonna ask about the turnbuckles 😂😂 I really like that setup!