Bman

Considering the caliper and rotor are the only things that held the wheel straight for miles. I say it's pretty tough.

Turns out I have the high lifter kit. Though I'm pretty sure it's still mostly Arctic cat components.

Yep. From measurements and what I can see they do appear to just be artic cat rotors

So I have an 04 Honda Foreman 450 ES with I believe in earlier super ATV disc brake conversion kit or similar it uses the wilwood calipers looks like in a super ATV. Lost a wheel bearing on the mountain had to drag it off and trashed the rotor. Does anybody know what rotors can replace these rotors?

Yeah pointy is how my pinion is haha. When I got the ATV seller mentioned specifically that the rear end didn't have any striped splines. Which is probably a tell that you're spot on with what was done. Gonna try it and see.

I've got my eye on a parts machine with a rear axle. But in the mean time I took a trip to my local hardware store and grabbed some machine washers with the right inner diameter. Two 18gauge (1.2mm). And two 14 gauge. (2.0mm) So stock starting point would be 2.0mm on both sides right?. Tried that. Still sloppy. Audible clunk/clank when rocking the axel back and forth. Tried 2.0 on the left side and 1.2mm on the right. It got the ring closer and was better, but still a clunk/clank when rocked hard enough. 2.0mm left. Nothing on the right was worse all around. My best combination. And quietest is both 1.2mm on the left side or 2.4mm and nothing on the right. Much less clunk and no metal "clank". Isn't binding. Can turn the hub with one hand relatively easy. So until I can get the other diff or purchase a new ring and pinion im gonna try this. I'm just doing this all by feel/what I hear. I don't have the tools to measure back lash. And id say the pinion being worn like it isn't helping.

From what I can tell the Rubicon 500 and the foreman 500 have the same rear diff as well.

The more I looked at it the more I do want to change out the pinion. Like I say the edges of the teeth are worn down to points instead of them being flat. But between the gear set, the shims, and the seals id be right the same as just buying one of those replacement differentials. Gonna do some research on those diffs and see if they have any good reviews.

And upon some closer Inspection the ring and pinion are only engaging at the very tip of the gears. And the ring gear is in so much better shape than the pinion id say someone replaced the ring gear and didn't touch the pinion. Because the teeth on the pinion are worn to fine edges. Where as the ring still had it's flats on the teeth

Took it apart again. And I was Right. There aren't any shim spacers on the ring gear or stuck to the bearings. So that's what's going on with the noise.

I wondered if I just missed them. But I cleaned everything up by hand and I figured they would have come off it. The pinion did show some pretty good wear compared to the ring. And it's got some play before I feel the the teeth engage. So I'll probably grab some shims and try shimming it into the pinion a bit more. It's pretty loud when just spinning it by hand with the wheels up. Anyone buy any of those non OEM replacement rear diffs? Most of them around 250$.

Took apart my rear diff this last week to inspect. The differential has been pretty noisy at speed. Running some Lucas oil stabilizer does help it quite some. But not a ton. Cleaned it out and inspected the ring and pinion. Ring looks decent the pinion definitely has some teeth wear. No metal In the diff oil oddly enough. But I did notice after I re-sealed it that I didn't recall seeing any shim/spacers on either side of the ring gear. So I imagine the ring gear is floating on the axle a bit and it's engagement to the pinion being sloppy is the sound. Got on the parts breakdown and there's several different options for those shim spacers. Where do I begin? How do I know when I got it right?

I live by Windrock Park in Tennessee. And it's 80% sxs or jeep. You occasionally will see a few ATVs. To the point alot of local powersport stores hardly carry tires or parts in general for ATVs. Unless they're newer (2015+) can am or Polaris. And even then generally those have to go back to the dealer you bought them from to get service or parts. Shockingly I found a new Honda emergency shift tool at the one by me. Though it had a very old tag on it back before the store changed owners.

There's a lot of side by side riding where I live. Not much in the way of ATVs anymore. And 14s are all over marketplace. Alot of factory take offs too that have zero use on them that the seller is just trying to get rid of for far less than the tires would have been new.

Would like to get a set of 14"s actually. There's a ton of selection on tires in that size where I live.

Oh Im sure the offset is the biggest issue. Planning on grabbing a new set of steel rims when I get the spare cash for a set and new set of tires. What makes them caliper spacers as opposed to being considered wheel spacers? Actually curious. I considered them wheel spacers as they go over the studs and space the wheel.

Yeah when I come across a good set I'll grab them up. I like the added stability, but you just can't ride close to the edges like you need in some spots without the wheels catching.

I'm referring to these spacers. Top of the image above the calipers. Not caliper spacers but wheel spacers as to help clear for the caliper. Atleast I assume that's why their in the kits. Both mine and his has these spacers. I know the 10 wides are excessive I'm wanting to put 8 wides back on. Id like to keep the itp wheels but I can find some stock steel wheels if they clear and get the wheels back where I want them.

Any of those knuckles change the axles I'd need?

I have an 04 Foreman 450es I just picked up and It's good riding machine but out on the trail with it I noticed one constant issue. Too wide in the front and it would just keep snagging a front tire and yanking the steering on me. Almost flipped me once. Most of the time its fine. This issue really only showed itself on one trail in particular. we ran a very much ATV only trail you 100% could not get anything else to fit width wise down this trail. And it runs along a mountain side. So sheer drop on the right and you had to hug the left most places. I ride with two other foremans. A stock 450s and another 450s with the same disc conversion I have. He was on the trail a week prior and the same issue I'm having he had and it broke his tie rod end. Both ATVs have the High lifter disc conversion with the Willwood calipers. He has a stock set of steel wheels from a Yamaha and I have some aftermarket ITP alloy wheels. I wanna say his fronts are 25x9 and mine are 26x10. Both have the little aluminum spacers. Without the spacer wheel will rub the caliper. Atleast I know my ITPs will. The stock 450s the wheels stay within the fenders. My buddy and mine with disc the wheels poke out considerably more. Mine may be a tad wider than his but Im not sure. Is this just how a disc conversion is? I wouldn't think that it's actually any wider of a stance than stock. There's that little spacer that's in the kit, but the hub should still be where the hub sits even with the drum brakes from factory. So what gives? Just my tires being a 10 wide? Id like to get the tires tucked back under the fenders like the stock. Is that doable with the disc?

I'm referring to this line. It's not a permanent line. It's one the LCD displays. Like this one for example. The line that separates the Speedo and gear indicator from the milage and hours.

That's possible it's not an ES meter. But it's still missing that line across the meter completely.

So from what I know the screen is supposed to o display the current gear. And there supposed to be a line across the screen to separate the MPH from the trip/mileage info. The screen Has no line. And no gearshift display period. No --- No L shaped box. Nothing. I've read some people mention to check the shift angle and the position sensor. But from what I understand it SHOULD still display the box and the ---. The ES does seem to work just fine. What would cause the display to just not display the info? Now Im pretty sure the LCD has been swapped to another one because the miles and hours are both WAY to high. 500k+ which I think is a glitch that happens when they are swapped?

Thanks for the heads up. I'll stay away from it then. I was interested in the Fuel injection and the selectable 4wd. But if it's just gonna break down on me all the time I'll pass on it. Guy said he wanted 800$ on top of the Foreman

Well a new possiblity has come up. May be looking at a trade to a 2008 rancher 420. With boot on my end but not sure how much he's thinking yet.