Tatara

Only getting 6v across the ignition circuit Any idea of the correct values when testing the diode? With positive cable on the middle prong and common on the outside I have a reading of 4.2 M ohms. With the leads reversed nothing.

Oh and use all the parts are OEM honda parts ordered from the dealer

Display won't light up until the first time I jump the solenoid with the jumper in place. I used it initially as a test to see if other systems were keeping it from cranking. If I remove the jumper while it's running the ATV immediately dies and display blanks. Won't get any info back until I replace and jump again. Relays have been tested and unless they went bad in the meantime we're working. Trying to solve this final issues so I can get it back to factory and button it all up

Continuation of this post: https://atvhonda.com/topic/1365-2012-trx420fe-not-turning-over-runs-intermittently Got all the parts in and changed out the multifunction display, shift motor (the factory grease job was a joke), and ignition switch. Display and shifting works great but still having issues with starting. So here's the basic situation, fully charged battery less than 2 weeks old, turn switch on and get nothing but headlights if on. No fuel pump noise or anything on the display. Short the solenoid and turns over but no crank. Ran a jumper wire from battery positive to ignition coil with a blade splitter. Jump solenoid and cranks easy. Remove jumper and it dies and back to previous state. If I kill the engine using the stop switch I can crank it back up using the electric start. But if remove the jumper at any point I'll have to jump the solenoid to get it to start. Don't want to leave the jumper in place as otherwise the display is on constantly and will drain the battery. Not sure what else to try...

ran a jumper from the battery to ignition coil and fuel pump came on when needed and cranked right up. tested voltage. no more than .15 volt drop. relay has been tested and functional, ignition switch seems functional too

That did it. So the list of parts we need is the bank angle sensor, shift motor and combo meter. Made a jumper just to let it run for a bit

i realize now that this is the wrong section as the rancher is a utility atv. My apologies i wasnt clear on the distinction. If it could be moved that would be grand

HI all, I've been helping my father-in-law try and figure out whats going on with his Rancher. First off some background. The plastic on the combination meter broke and has been exposed to water so the meter is dead. The electronic shift quit working last season but we have it adjusted manually for now. Will be replacing the meter for sure and the shift switch if i cant diagnose it out. He went to move it yesterday and it cranked and ran for about 5 seconds and died. When I started helping the solenoid wasnt clicking and the starter not trying to turn over. We messed with it for a couple hours, bridging the solenoid to try and force it to crank and nothing. as i was still messing with it i just gave it a try and it cranked right up using the start switch. Ran for about 5 minutes and died. So this morning we started going through the full diagnostics. Turn the key to on and not hearing the fuel pump trying to prime. Go to the 8pin relay its functioning correctly. check the engine stop switch, it seems to be fine. Check for power at the pump not getting any voltage. check for continuity between the relay connector and the fuel pump connector. Have continuity. Checked continuity on the ground leg to engine chassis and good. checked voltage on a4 pin of 33 pin connector to engine chassis. no voltage. Checked continuity for start switch and engine stop switch at connector behind radiator and all good so im kinda lost at this point unless its the bank sensor. Any guidance greatly appreciated. .