DLBeltran74

Hey folks, I have a CRF100F that wouldn’t start. It has spark and compression but wasn’t getting gas. I soaked the carburetor in that gallon of carb cleaner, put it in an ultra sonic cleaner multiple times and the fuel line into the carb is still blocked. I tried blowing air through it with the compressor and still nothing. Does anyone have any ideas on how I can get it unclogged!?! Nothing I’ve tried is working!

Anyone know where I can find a free service manual for a 2003 Kawasaki Bayou 250?

I currently have 2004 Honda TRX 450 plastics on my 2003 TRX 450 FM. Does anyone out there have the correct plastics for this four wheeler. Maybe trade or just sell them to me. TYIA

I could use them, I have A 2003 foreman 450 fm that has the disc conversion kit but one of the master cylinders is messed up beyond repair.

Hello everyone! Question, cleaned carb, replaced everything the way it was. Not sure how the 3whlr ran before because I just got it. Put the carb back on with the air fuel screw 2 1/4 turns out. It starts first try but idles super high! I tried setting the idle screw in the side of the carb but it does not do much of anything. THEN the dang muffler start to glow! What the heck is going on here. I didn’t change jet sizes. The air fuel screw was 11 turns out when I first counted. I seriously doubt that is where it was suppose to be. But I am having a terrible time getting this thing set. The motor sounds healthy! The bike runs and drives all except for this setting on the darn carb. Any information or advice would help.

Well, I spoke to someone that deals with mikuni on a personal level. He advised me that the carb rebuild kit for my OEM carb has not been released yet but will be soon. He said he will stay in touch with me and let me know as soon as it is released. It’s not very expensive and I have a chance to save the OEM carb. That was pretty exciting!

How about this? Does any choke cable work? What makes them so different? I’ve looked and looked and a lot of what I found appears to have the same end that connects to the carb as the OEM cable. I am cheap. I do not want to spend $75+ dollars for a choke cable. I’m more lake a $7.99 type of guy. If it work, let it ride! What I am asking is if the plunger end is small on the OEM should another cable with the small end work? I am not a mechanic at all and still trying to learn all this stuff! Any info will help! Thank you!

Awesome, thank you guys! I appreciate the info!

These are the only numbers I could find on the carb. Not sure what the model is. There are aftermarket carb kits for these carbs but I just need to figure out the model number to get the right one.

Yeah, I’ve seen all this. I was just wondering if not having a choke cable installed would air be sucked in and make the bike idle high.

Ok folks, I recently came across this Yamaha through a friend. H gave it to me so I couldn’t say no. Well it has been sitting for four years and was told it ran and drove the last it was parked. Well, I did the minor stuff on it. The original mikuni carb was shot but I couldn’t find a model number to order a rebuild kit so I put w cheap eBay carb on it just to get it going again. Low and behold! This sucker started on the third pull. My question is, if I do not have a choke cable in the carb will it suck in more air and cause the bike to idle real high? I adjusted the idle screw and it idles real high and higher. That’s about all it will do. Any info will help. TIA!

My mistake!!!! Yes it is a 2004! No it does not have a stock carb on it. I purchased the bike for $600 at a auction,

Ok, I took the carb off and cleaned the crap out of it. Now…..it turns on first kick but just on choke. If I try to turn the choke off it dies immediately. If I leave it on choke, I can barely twist the throttle and when I do, the bike revs up and down on its own. I cleaned the carb, put it through a couple of cycles in the unltrasonic cleaner, sprayed it good with carb cleaner and blew through every hole possible with my compressor. It was spotless when I put it back together. No gas leaking through the over flow, I couldn’t have gotten it any cleaner unless it was brand new. So someone……please help me figure this out!

Check it out, I have a 01’ CRF 100 F that I am having trouble figuring out why it will not stay on. And yes, I cleaned the carb. I checked the valve clearance and it appears to be in spec. I’m not very good at messing with the valves but I think I got it right. Well, when I start it, it only starts on choke. Once it starts up, it revs real high. When I switch the choke off it bogs down and eventually turns off. It doesn’t run long enough to adjust it. Does anyone have any idea what could be happening?

Yep!

Yeah, I looked at that one. It has a crack

Does anyone know where to get a crank case for a 2004 Honda TRX 250 EX for a really good price? I just need the front half but I read somewhere the halves shouldn’t be mismatched. Not too sure about that. But as mentioned in my previous post, I had a broken bolt in my crank case. I too it to a machine shop but they couldn’t get it out. So I said the heck with it and tried getting it out myself. BIG MISTAKE! I ended up damaging the threads and puncturing a hole at the bottom of the place where the broken bolt goes. So I’m guessing it will be beyond fixing. I would rather purchase a cheap used one with no cracks or damage. If anyone has information about where I can locate one, I’d really appreciate it! By the way, half the bolt is still stuck in the hole!!!! 🤦🏻‍♂️

Ok…..I took it to a machine shop. He tried getting it out by welding a nut to it and taking it out that way. BUT……it didn’t work. So my only option it to drill it out and replace the threads or replace the casing. I really do not want to spend the money on a new casing. I looked online for a used one but I can’t find one anywhere. I found a couple of new ones but the are running about $400. Not even a option. Is there any type of guide or something that can help me drill out the broken bolt and do the heli coil thing. Those are my options. If anyone has or knows of a place I can get a really cheap casing, I would appreciate it.

Ok folks, I have a 2004 Honda TRX 250 EX SportsTrax I’m working on. I removed the top end and when doing so, one of the bolts snapped off flush with the engine. I center punched it and started drilling it out with a small bit. It was going great. Until…..I switched to a bigger drill bit. Once I went up in size on the bit, it started drilling to the side. I may have damaged the threads but I can’t really tell at this point. So….now I am trying to extract the bolt without breaking the extracting tools in the drilled hole. I’ve used both kinds. I used the square ones and the spiral looking ones. All they seem to be doing is get super tight but don’t remove the bolt. I don’t want to force it more than I have because I don’t want it to snap off in the drilled hole. I have tried applying heat and PB Blaster and it still doesn’t want to come out. I tried using a left handed drill bit but I can’t tell if it’s drilling the bolt or the aluminum. I am getting pretty worried I’m messing up the threads. I’m pretty sure I’ll have to re-thread the hole with a bigger size once it’s out but I can’t figure out how to get it out of the hole. Does anyone know of a tool that can help me re-drill the hole in the center. Like some type of guide. My patients are wearing thin and I really don’t want to force it. I’ve broken two extracting tools in the past trying to remove broken bolts and I swore to never mess with this kind of stuff again. Should I just take it to a machine shop and let them do it? Also, if I did mess up the threads, is that the end of that hole size? Is there a way a machine shop can reconstruct the hole and re-thread it with the original size bolt hole? Can someone please pass on some info for this. It’s freaking me out! TIA!!!

Ok folks, I have these two gems. They aren’t Hondas but they are the next best thing! Free!!!! I already have them running and driving. But my issue is, I can not find a manual to down for FREE! I will not buy one. The info I need is important but not that important. I can find out everything I need to know online. I just want the manual, just to have. Does anyone know where I can find that. Your help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Yes, I replaced all the top end gaskets. I tightened them to spec. Well, what the book had. So, now I’m just confused on why it would be leaking from there.

Yes, same one. It’s a 2004 Honda Foreman TRX 450 FM. Sorry about that.

Ok, sorry to bother everyone but I have a new issue. I just got it running. Idles great. I noticed white smoke coming off the top of the engine and thought maybe it was suppose to do that during break in time. But I’ve had it running for a while and it’s still snoozing. I looked at the valve cover and noticed a little oil seeping from the lower two bolts. Took it off and the lower left acorn nut also has oil leaking from there. Should I order new acorn nuts and washer and a valve cover gasket and new valve cover bolts or what? Please help. I don’t know how long I can smell this oil burning.

How do I know if it’s at tdc on the compression stroke? I have the T mark showing in the hole and the exhaust valve is tight and the intake valve is loose. Is that right?

I never went that far down into the motor. I bought it needing the top end. From the top everything on the inside looked to be in great condition. It switched into all the gears so I didn’t feel I need to go any further.