Andy bauska

It's supposed to spin free one way, and not the other.

I'm buying the full set off of Wheeler.

Lol, it's just stupid.

Hey, definitely interested, let me see some pics, then I'll shoot you that offer. Do you have a FB? You can look me up there, and we can PM each other.

Thanks, but I'm not dealing with Greg. I'll try to find them elsewhere.

Hello, ISO of a set of rear mud guards for my 1993 300 4x4. I would like to find a used set for a decent price, let me know what you have, and what you are asking. Thanks -Andy

If it's the clutch cover gasket you are talking about, I've never had a problem ripping. Can you show me where you have the most trouble?

When I adjust the brakes up to the point where I get a good bite on them, it only turns freely for about a quarter of a turn and gets so tight I can't even move it. If you drive the rig around, the machine will be lots slower, the brake will squeak, it will lack power, and the break assembly will get so hot that you could cook an egg on it. This indicates to me there is something out of round. But I don't know.

My dad knows how to do that sort of stuff, he is very smart and mechanical. He is a brilliant man, and I'm most proud to call him my father! And do you know what the minimum thickness can be off of your head? If not, I can always look in the book.

My dad has access to a lathe at his work. Or would it just be better to buy a new one?

Yes, I've done that, and it hasn't helped.

I've already played with that adjustment, and it doesn't help. The brakes will be super easy to turn in one place and get so hard you can't turn it. Almost like the drum is out of round.

Do you think it's more likely that the pads are the problem or the drum?

I've actually entertained putting a disk on the back, but I still have the stock rims which are 11" and I think I need 12" Also, I think do you should try a new set of pads?

Very good. A new steering bearing was all mine needed, and it was nice and tight.

Got the timing one tooth off when I did the rebuild on my 93 300. It ran surprisingly good at idle, but sucked on the top end.

If you know what you want, do your research. There are lots of indicators if it's beat or not. If the racks are all bent up, or dented, it was probably rode hard. If the motor is an ugly brown color, it's probably been in mud. If it still has the original tires, it's probably been taken care of. There are lots of other indicators as well, but those are just a few. I hope this helps!

Honda ATV 1992 OEM Parts Diagram for Tie Rod | Partzilla.com

So, you can go down to your local paint shop and buy paint and shoot it on with a gun. They can match anything you want. The color code of your bike is Hondas' Passion Red (Code R109) You can get a quart of paint and all the stuff for around 100 bucks, and you have enough to do 2 tanks. Haven't had good luck with spray paint, as the color is never right, and it gets eaten off by your fuel. As for the decals, this is what you want 90-93 TRX300 Tank Decal Red | Blue Line Graphics (bluelinedecals.com). If you got any more questions about a honda 300 let me know.

Hello everyone, I need a little advice about the rear brakes on my Honda. Back around Christmas time, I got snow in the rear brakes. It froze overnight, and I had to heat the backing plate before I could get it to move. After words, I pulled it apart to clean up the brakes. After I reassembled it, I haven't got the brakes to work right. If I adjust the breaks up to where I get a good bite on it, the machine won't move, and in some places the break drags very badly, and the break lever really loose. I flipped the axle around, so the drum had a tighter spline to ride on (the one was pretty loose) and it's helped, but not very much. I also replaced the bearing, and no improvement. So, what do you think? Out of round drum? Not evenly worn pads? Bent axle? I don't know what to do, so any help is welcomed.

Thanks! I'd would've have replaced a lot of stuff in the electrical system before I would've found it was out of time.

Thank you all so so much for your help and comments.

The Honda is alive and well!!!! I pulled the valve cover off and sure enough the cam was one tooth off. She runs like a dream and revs all the way up!

My dad and I were talking about it last night, and he thinks my timing is a tooth or a half off. He said that on a big V8 engine with the timing a little off it will still idle like a top, but on the top end, it will stutter, and not run well. I think this is a possible cause. And beings that I'm only getting 165lbs of compression, it's possible it bent a valve slightly.

Misterclean, I put a Brand-new coil on it, and threaded the spark plug boot on it, I so I don't think that's the problem there. And as for the vent lines, I haven't checked them out, but I would assume they are clean. And I pretty much rule out the possibility of my carb having incorrect settings. The other one I swapped it to just runs too perfect for anything to be wrong with my carb. But Vent lines are an easy thing to check, so worth a shot.