AKATV 820 Posted February 18 Welcome to the forum! Post a picture of the display issue if you can If the gear shift position indicator is missing, it will need to be reprogrammed If gear indicator is present on LCD, but not displaying the gears properly, it could be a cracked shift drum or faulty gear position switch I will send my contact info to your message box as well -AKATV Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AKATV 820 Posted February 19 MAR1949 sent a picture to me Meter stays in neutral with "N" being displayed for all gears Having him check gear position switch as per manual He also informed me he has a bypass kit on his Rancher 350 (ES) I have not run a bypass kit- so wanted to ask members what/how gears are displayed on meter when using one? I know that half the gears are hard wire generated from the gear position switch and the other half are determined by angle sensor/ECU which are unlplugged when using bypass kit But either way, it should not be showing neutral for every gear Other possibility is that the shift drum has cracked off on the end or bad gear position switch which he said he just replaced so maybe the gear position switch pin was not aligned with the "N" on switch during but either way it would not just stay in Neutral -AKATV Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Willton 0 Posted February 24 I have an 05 Rancher 350es 2x4. It was submerged in water for a month. (Long story) Display was full of water. The screen was unreadable before my accident. I took it apart and the display obviously needs to be repaired. Everything on the circuit board seemed to be in order except a small diode or fuse or something came off. Do you think this is salvageable? I have it tore apart completely. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AKATV 820 Posted February 24 (edited) Water damage circuit boards on these are pretty much a death sentence If the board is water damaged and corroded to the point where parts are falling off the board then generally at that point, it means the circuit traces are probably destroyed on the board as well. I’ll know more if I can take a look at it. Post a picture or two of the circuitboard and I can let you know what I think I will send my contact information to your message box if you’d like to look into a repair or have me source parts for you -AKATV Edited February 24 by AKATV Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gbryant1 0 Posted March 11 I need to contact AKATV to see about getting my display fixed. Is he still doing repairs on these? New member and this is my first post that I need to contact him. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AKATV 820 Posted March 11 Welcome to the forum! Yes, I have heard that he still repairs these... LOL Let me know your your make and model, and what you have going on -maybe post a picture or two if you can preferably with headlights, turned on, so the display is illuminated I will send my contact information to your message box if you’d like to look into a repair as well -AKATV Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,600 Posted March 11 On 2/19/2024 at 12:59 PM, AKATV said: MAR1949 sent a picture to me Meter stays in neutral with "N" being displayed for all gears Having him check gear position switch as per manual He also informed me he has a bypass kit on his Rancher 350 (ES) I have not run a bypass kit- so wanted to ask members what/how gears are displayed on meter when using one? I know that half the gears are hard wire generated from the gear position switch and the other half are determined by angle sensor/ECU which are unlplugged when using bypass kit But either way, it should not be showing neutral for every gear Other possibility is that the shift drum has cracked off on the end or bad gear position switch which he said he just replaced so maybe the gear position switch pin was not aligned with the "N" on switch during but either way it would not just stay in Neutral -AKATV I missed this question. Did you ever get an answer to this part? I know my ES converted to footshift does show the proper gear but always throws an error code when you shift. The N displayed for all gears could be a broken shift drum, which was common in 2000-2001 350's, and if the rear of the shift drum broke off, or alternatively, someone might have have hardwired it to show N all the time so it would start. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slief 0 Posted March 18 (edited) @AKATV I am new to the board and found this thread after an exhaustive google search. I have a 2002 Rancher 350 ES. The display is out. Like many here, the backlight works with the headlights on but the display shows nothing. I did inspect the board for cold solder or broken solder joints and don’t see any issues there nor do I see any obvious signs of a failed component on the board. I tested the ground (green wire at the display and it seems to be good. Also checked it at the pins on the other side of the board and it too seems OK. Checked the voltage at both the red wire and brown wire (with ignition on) and I get 12v on both at the plug on the display as well as at the pins on the back side. Any other suggestions? I’ve included a few pictures. One of the display powered on and one of the back side of the display PCB showing the wires. I spent years in the computer repair business doing component level repairs and figured I find something amiss on the board. I’ve seen the display work and the issue was intermittent but not seems to be totally dead. Edit, If I disconnect the plug at the harness and plug it back in while the motor is running or not (with the hey on), the display will come back on. If I shut down via the key and turn the ignition back on, the display is blank again. Same when I disconnect the 7 pin power plug from the board. Disconnect the plug from the board with the ignition on, the display comes back to life. Shut the ignition off and back on, the display is blank. If I disconnect the larger plug from the board, nothing happens. I repeated the process (disconnect the harness, plug it back in and it will work again. Feel free to PM me. Any suggestions and or if you think this is a display issue, feel free to PM me pricing, shipping details, turnaround time etc. Thank you in advance! Edited March 18 by Slief Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AKATV 820 Posted March 18 Welcome to the forum Sounds like you’ve been doing some great troubleshooting and as you have probably found out -the red and black wire is your constant power which is your clock hold up, and your brown/black wire is your “key on” power and should power up your CPU and turn your display on Make sure you have 12 V at the red/black wire and the brown/black wire with the key on using your green wire for ground -not only at the plug but on the top side of the board were the pins are soldered If you have it there, you most likely have a CPU going out or gone out on your board and the board will need to be replaced as the CPU chip, It’s not replaceable at least at a cost effective level I will send my contact information to your message box as well -AKATV Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Slief 0 Posted March 18 (edited) 24 minutes ago, AKATV said: Welcome to the forum Sounds like you’ve been doing some great troubleshooting and as you have probably found out -the red and black wire is your constant power which is your clock hold up, and your brown/black wire is your “key on” power and should power up your CPU and turn your display on Make sure you have 12 V at the red/black wire and the brown/black wire with the key on using your green wire for ground -not only at the plug but on the top side of the board were the pins are soldered If you have it there, you most likely have a CPU going out or gone out on your board and the board will need to be replaced as the CPU chip, It’s not replaceable at least at a cost effective level I will send my contact information to your message box as well -AKATV Thank you for the feedback. I did verify that I get 12v with the ignition off at the red wire and 12v ignition on and the brown wire. I’m surprised that when I disconnect the power with the ignition on and plug it back in to the display, the display will work fine. It’s only after an ignition cycle (switched 12v off to the display that it fails to work again. It’s as though if I didn’t mind the clock not working and I changed the red wire to switched 12v vs constant 12v, the display would work everytime the ignition is turned on. Edited March 18 by Slief Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
