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sled_22

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I use opti2 synthetic mix. I think it states that it’ll mix 100:1 but I usually mix one pouch with two gallons instead of the recommended 2.5 gallons. That puts it at around 70:1 when I did the figuring. Never had a problem with my saws.   I believe I’ll try stihl synthetic when I get my new saw. 
 

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this is it ? I've read good results on this mix, but never located it in columbia, I'll get in touch with my small engine guy. i believe jeep mentioned he mixed his 2 cycle gas a tad on the rich side ? 

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I am looking to buy a spare chain for my 028AV super and need to understand these numbers on the bar.

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I get that this bar requires .325 chain as opposed to 3/8, but the rest of this is not clear. I see .063 in the lower right. What is that referring to?  Does 81 in the lower corner refer to the number of drive links?  

 

The big question are bar and chain combos brand specific, or can Oregon chain be run on Stihl bars and vice versa as long as the dog width matches?

 

Sorry if these question are unclear or sound dumb.  I am known on my BILs race team as the overthinker, and need to understand as much as I can about most everything.

 

On a side note, I cleaned the saw up, mixed some fresh gas (about 47:1) and filled the oil tank with Tractor Supply house brand bar oil and the saw ran good. 

 

I looked at the spark plug and it was gray not tan that I am used to on four strokes.  The big thing is it was a Champion CJ14.  The internet shows a RCJ6Y? as the Champion plug that crosses to the NGK BPMR7A.  Needless to say that got changed out last night for the NGK.

 

Still on the learning curve of starting the saw.  Sometimes it starts right away, but I haven't got a set procedure on starting.  Any advice or help?

 

I think I am going to like this saw, IF I can figure out what it wants me to do.  Kinda like dealing with women.  Treat her nice and she'll do most anything for ya.  If not,  you get all sorts of problems.😂

 

Thanks

Steve    

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yes 81 is the number of drive links and yes defrent brand chains and bars will interchange, .063 is the thickness of the drive links, so you will need 81 drive links , along with  .063 gauge chain. you made the right choice with the spark plug, as for starting, mine takes  few pulls to start, just the nature of the beast (About 3 or 4 pulls) she's always been like sence brand new. as for bar oil, I'm picky, Stihl brand is all i use, it's almost as tacky as bel-ray foam filter oil, lol! 

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I've always been told if it takes more than a couple pulls to start a cold saw give the L carb screw a tweak out. Most Stihl saws are factory set for 1 turn out for the L carb screw.   Maybe 1/4 turn and see if that helps, but don't mess with the H screw for this adjustment.  That's more for adjusting wide open RPM's fuel mixture.

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18 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

this is it ? I've read good results on this mix, but never located it in columbia, I'll get in touch with my small engine guy. i believe jeep mentioned he mixed his 2 cycle gas a tad on the rich side ? 

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Yeah that’s the stuff? Want me to pick you up some next time I’m at the stihl shop?  I’ll ship it to you. 
I run that in all my 2smokes. Weed eater. Leaf blower. Ice auger. Saws. Mini tiller. Never had a problem.  Like I said, each pouch is for 2.5 gallons and I mix with 2 gallons to be a bit rich. 
 

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@Pampas56

starting procedure for my stihl is:

choke full on until the saw “pops” once. 
then you switch it to the high idle. (You should have the chain brake on as well) 

then pull till she starts. She’ll be reving high so careful with the bar if you don’t have the chain brake engaged. 
then just flip to the run position and let it warm up a bit. 
 

best way to tune the low end idle side of a stihl saw is: once it’s idling and warm. 
adjust the LA screw until it has a nice consistent low idle. 
then adjust the L screw so that when you punch the throttle, it revs right up with out any bog or hesitation. Once it’s set right your chain might continue to spin. (See next step)
then. Go back to the LA screw and adjust the idle to the point where the chain just want to turn on its own. Then down a hair to keep it from spinning. Just enough to keep the clutch from engaging. 
like bcs said, don’t mess with the high unless you know what you’re listening for. There should be a “stock” adjustment range for that saw somewhere. Like he said it usually 1 to 1 1/4 turns out if you still have the limiters in the carb. 
Let me know if you need more information. 
-sled. 

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2 hours ago, sled_22 said:

Yeah that’s the stuff? Want me to pick you up some next time I’m at the stihl shop?  I’ll ship it to you. 
I run that in all my 2smokes. Weed eater. Leaf blower. Ice auger. Saws. Mini tiller. Never had a problem.  Like I said, each pouch is for 2.5 gallons and I mix with 2 gallons to be a bit rich. 
 

 

thank you for the offer, let me do some looking, i might just take you up on it :-) it's a better price then what i pay for stihl synthetic mix oil! my grandfather always quicksilver mix oil in his echo brush cutter, no telling how many engine hour that cutter had on it, have gave it to me years down the road, i used it all around the main shop, and also to clean between rows of tobacco. 

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A little progress on the 041. Got the top end back together. Doesn’t feel like there’s much compression but I’m sure you need to run it plus have some gas oil mix to properly seal.
the muriotic acid worked pretty good along with some scotchbrite 400 grit. Here’s some you pictures for your enjoyment. 

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Ohh forgot to mention. I deleted the base gasket. Hoping my timing won’t be too far off. I measured the “squish” on the top end after I preassembled. I had .027 clearance. I think .020 is what ported saw guys shoot for. I used tiny bit of rtv along the outside to seal so I don’t suck any air. Still squished to .027. 

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Sent the kids to grandma and grandpas tonight and got some more done. It’s starting to look like a saw again. Carb kit in.  New fuel lines and clean clean clean. Stihl dirty. The carb was full of grit and dirt. Can’t believe it ran before. 

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Well I found a guy that needed to liquidate. So I got a nice 031 av. A parts 041 farm boss and 10 sweet old homies. Guess I got some projects now. Grand total was $70. 

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And to follow up with the 041 av rebuild. Well it runs again. Need to put it into some wood tomorrow after some break in. Sure is quiet for how big it is. She cleaned up nice. Too bad the bar and chain is basically junk. 
trying to decide if it’s worth some stihl paint or not. Kind of liking the petina. 

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On January 8, 2021 at 4:30 PM, sled_22 said:

Well I found a guy that needed to liquidate. So I got a nice 031 av. A parts 041 farm boss and 10 sweet old homies. Guess I got some projects now. Grand total was $70. 

 

thats a great score for $70 bucks! 

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Started on my 031av today. No spark and no fuel. So she got tore down. Found the lack of spark. Wire broke off from the coil. Fuel will be fixed up with new fuel lines and a carb kit I picked up today. 

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I got my super xl running today. God what a sweet saw. Love these vintage saws for messing around with. enjoy the video! 

 

 

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Here's some finished pictures of my Super XL Homie (other than dogs which I'm hoping to find friday). It's pretty sweet looking in my opinion. I'm waffling over adding it to the collection or trying to sell it for a decent price to put towards the new saw.

 

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1 hour ago, sled_22 said:

Here's some finished pictures of my Super XL Homie (other than dogs which I'm hoping to find friday). It's pretty sweet looking in my opinion. I'm waffling over adding it to the collection or trying to sell it for a decent price to put towards the new saw.

 

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Those are great saws. I've been in the repair business since June of 1983 and they were popular back then. They weren't the fastest cutting saw but reliable. You probably won't get much for it so just hang on to it and enjoy it for what it is. Hint.......that stumble may be the metering lever too high or the high speed screw too rich. Also the Idle mixture sounds a little lean and a little too fast. Adjust the high speed screw so the engine "four cycles" at full throttle no load and smooths out to "two cycling" under a moderate load.

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5 minutes ago, Misterclean said:

Those are great saws. I've been in the repair business since June of 1983 and they were popular back then. They weren't the fastest cutting saw but reliable. You probably won't get much for it so just hang on to it and enjoy it for what it is. Hint.......that stumble may be the metering lever too high or the high speed screw too rich. Also the Idle mixture sounds a little lean and a little too fast. Adjust the high speed screw so the engine "four cycles" at full throttle no load and smooths out to "two cycling" under a moderate load.

Thank you, almost extactly what The problem was. The metering valve was just a tad too high but the main issue was the vent in the gas cap was clogged with the imfamous black tar from these tanks. It was pushing fuel nonstop. I didn't crack the tank cap when I shut it off and it spewed fuel while sitting. Pretty easy tip it gave me there.

It runs exceptionally well now.

I wouldn't expect to get more than $125 for it. Which would be great in my opinion because I have about $65 into the entire saw. But I think I'll put it on the shelf. Once I build a display shelf that is.

Wilson's 031AV is next to get tuned and running good.

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yeah, it's about time ... lol .... from your other post, I'd say that's a nice good supply of wood, now on to wrenching! 

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Dad put me on an XL when I was first starting on this tree.  16" bar.   

 

It cut ok, but when the tree was too thick to cut down either side, matching the cut, he pulled out his new 372XP and it was like a knife through warm butter, and even with a 24" bar felt much lighter than the XL.

 

Last time I tried to crank the XL I couldn't get it to start.  I do want to get it running again and keep it ready to use.  Just one of a 100 projects around here.

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