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sled_22

Everything chainsaws!

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I had a dog for it but needed to get the right hardware for it. It was installed after the fact.

Stihl 090... that would be cool to have but a running saw right now is selling for $1500-4000 USD.

 

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Here's an update on the Ms290. Finally got everything cleaned up in the parts washer and reassembled. It went together really smooth. Grease free even!

Ran into one snag though and I caught it on film when testing. It's more fun and suspenseful to watch my video though (just don't read the title haha).

 

Something interesting to think about:

The saw obviously was pushing oil out a ridiculous amount when i got it. I knew it would be an issue. With the saw completely tore down, everything looked good. I had the saw laying clutch side down for a week and nothing came out.
Then I started a warm fire in the shop and kept it going for a few days. must have averaged 35 degrees for a week then 70 for 4 days. ANYWAY, when I had the saw sitting straight up for those 3 days, bar oil pushed out the conventional bar oil hole until empty.
So, I filled the oil tank back up and replaced the flippy cap. It hasn't leaked since.
The heat cycle presurized the tank and it leaked out the easiest path. Correctly ventilated caps for these tanks are crucial just like on fourwheelers and everything else for that matter.

 

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nice job on getting it back working. I've heard mine burp when taking the bar oil cap off, but haven't had it leek, yet, over the years I've had to adjust the oil rate some depending on what bar oil i use, (Brian) my small engine guy told me the standard was it should use half a tank of oil to one tank of gas, mine uses a tad more oil. 

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39 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

nice job on getting it back working. I've heard mine burp when taking the bar oil cap off, but haven't had it leek, yet, over the years I've had to adjust the oil rate some depending on what bar oil i use, (Brian) my small engine guy told me the standard was it should use half a tank of oil to one tank of gas, mine uses a tad more oil. 

Yeah that is a good usage to shoot for. At least for 20" bars and less. I have my 462 and 28" bar using about 3/4 tank of bar oil to a tank of fuel.

What sucks about the flywheel key shearing for me, is the key is cast into the flywheel, So you need to order a new flywheel and can't just replace with a standard woodruf key. There goes $21 worth of profit. Ohh well, could have been worse and the piston could have come detached from the rod I suppose.

 

Funny how the previous owner said they ran it out of gas and then couldn't restart it. I think they threw a whole bunch of new parts at it and couldn't get it going with the end result of selling for what they just put into it. I'm sure the saw didn't owe them anything other than that new stuff. Based solely on the 20 years worth of dirt built up.

 

I'm going to have to fabricate an intake for my 2095 jonsered next. that should be a fun project, parts expected to arrive throughout the week.

 

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On 3/19/2021 at 8:58 PM, Macarena Man said:

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This is a new 'never been in wood' Simonds 8' falling saw . . . 

Misery whip, as the old man calls them

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I'm trying to figure out why my Stihl 009L quit oiling.  It used to use a full oil for a full fuel, then used around half, then hardly anything.  It has an unusual oil pump setup with a diaphram and uses the up and down of the piston to draw oil.  There are no more parts available, so have taken it apart to see what it looks like.  The diaphram looks good and blew in the end of the connecting hose to clear it where it oozes out.  Gonna put back together and throw some thinner oil in it to see what happens.   

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I took my Husky 346 out and cut a few trees on the trail.  Widened the trails out in a few spots, but mainly went out to remove a bit tree that fell across a seldom used path, "seldom used" being when the river is backed up where my normal trail is under water.   River is way up right now, so to get far from the house, I needed to move that tree.  Got that done friday afternoon.

 

Saturday I got out the "free" MS180C that was given to me a while back.  This was the one my buddy had that he loaned out, guy ran it with the brake on and melted the crankcase.  I replaced the crankcase half, clutch, and a few other odds and ends and put it back together.  I kept it as a "loaner/beater saw".  Figured it needed to be run, so got it out.  It didn't start easy, so shot of starter fluid and it cranked up and ran fine.  I got most of the way down my ditch bank by my house (cutting privet up to 3-4 in), shut it off to pull some stuff out of the way, and when I went to crank it again, the dang pull rope broke.  Luckily the saw started, so I finished up, more or less, what I needed to do.

 

Looking around, looks like I yanked too hard on the "easy start" Stihl.  I think I might just get a regular 180 recoil from Hutzl and put it on.  I hate that easy start crap, and I'll end up breaking it again if I just put a new rope on the original side cover.

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1 hour ago, bcsman said:

I'm trying to figure out why my Stihl 009L quit oiling.  It used to use a full oil for a full fuel, then used around half, then hardly anything.  It has an unusual oil pump setup with a diaphram and uses the up and down of the piston to draw oil.  There are no more parts available, so have taken it apart to see what it looks like.  The diaphram looks good and blew in the end of the connecting hose to clear it where it oozes out.  Gonna put back together and throw some thinner oil in it to see what happens.   

I think I read something once that if you hold the diaphram up to a light, and can see light through it, it has met it's maker and will not work any more. Something to check before you put it back together. Check the impulse line that goes to the diaphram too. Like the impulse that goes to the carb, if there's so much as a pin hole, it won't work properly.

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So I picked up a chain sharpener, what a difference from filing, reg price is 70 bucks it was on sale for 40 bucks, well worth the money for anyone who cuts wood every year, I can't get over how nice it cuts. And get more cuts per tanks.

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13 hours ago, TBRider said:

So I picked up a chain sharpener, what a difference from filing, reg price is 70 bucks it was on sale for 40 bucks, well worth the money for anyone who cuts wood every year, I can't get over how nice it cuts. And get more cuts per tanks.

What kind of sharpener did you get? Like a file guide? or electric grinder?

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yep, sure does, retro turned me on to this file, I've never used any other from then on, and the files can be changed wen they need to be.

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I have one of those files here also, but today I put 6 tanks of fuel through my saw and it still is spiting confetti, chips are flying everywhere now....

 

Going to see how it is after another 6 tanks tomorrow

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3 hours ago, Tim-ANC said:

 

I like it. Can you sharpen with the chain on the bar? I currently use a Dremmel.

Chain has to be off the bar, I use a flat file along with the file Wilson posted to take the rakers down. My chain is dangerous sharp right now, but I had my rakers already filed down before using the grinder. If the chain still had the full raker it would cut like a new chain.

 

Mine right now will pull logs towards you, probably pull you around a tree if it was standing...😆

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Well good news, against all odds I got my Stihl 009L to push oil again.  I made a post on the Arboristsite.com with my problem and got a few responses.  One of the guys gave me some advise I had never heard for fixing these little Stihl oilers.  I had asked for help finding where the oiler vent was and he posted a pic with a red arrow showing what he has done before to get it working again.  He said with the oiler removed the hole he highlighted gets tunneled to the crankcase to act as an impulse to send oil.  He said it may be plugged or restricted and with the spark plug removed to blow lightly in the hole to remove any debris.  After doing that I put the plug and oiler back in and started the 009L and like magic oil started oozing out.  I thanked him and said I bet there are a few of these saws that got junked not tryng this fix.  Thankfully I didn't need a new diaphram because they are extinct.

 

Stihl 009L.jpg

 

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might try and find that part, just in case yours get a pin hole, we know how hard some parts are getting hard to locate. 

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9 hours ago, bcsman said:

Well good news, against all odds I got my Stihl 009L to push oil again.  I made a post on the Arboristsite.com with my problem and got a few responses.  One of the guys gave me some advise I had never heard for fixing these little Stihl oilers.  I had asked for help finding where the oiler vent was and he posted a pic with a red arrow showing what he has done before to get it working again.  He said with the oiler removed the hole he highlighted gets tunneled to the crankcase to act as an impulse to send oil.  He said it may be plugged or restricted and with the spark plug removed to blow lightly in the hole to remove any debris.  After doing that I put the plug and oiler back in and started the 009L and like magic oil started oozing out.  I thanked him and said I bet there are a few of these saws that got junked not tryng this fix.  Thankfully I didn't need a new diaphram because they are extinct.

 

 

9 hours ago, bcsman said:

 

I read your post on the other forum. Glad you got it all sorted out.

There was another post similar to yours around the same time period where someone was testing a home made diaphram for these and if his worked out after a prototype, he was going to produce a lot of them for others to try. Did you see that one BCS?

 

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13 hours ago, sled_22 said:

 

I read your post on the other forum. Glad you got it all sorted out.

There was another post similar to yours around the same time period where someone was testing a home made diaphram for these and if his worked out after a prototype, he was going to produce a lot of them for others to try. Did you see that one BCS?

 

Yes I read it sled, sounds interesting if it works.  It would fix quite a few of these models junked out.  Of course the fix I used might be all it takes also unless the diaphram is toast, which I didnt think mine was.

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I got a bar and chain for the 2095 the other day and I started fabbing up an air filter for it I can’t locate an air box cover so I’m going to put a uni-filter on it. Parts are starting to show up for it as well. Including a brake band clutch springs chain guard plate etc. can’t wait to sink this into some wood. She needs a bath first to check for leaks and some stripped bolts and nuts cleaned up. 81EBE21A-293C-4257-938C-EDDB73CB8E19.jpeg

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Started cleaning the 2095 a bit this morning. More like disassembly. Always a good feeling when you get the exhaust off and it just glows with perfection. Must not have seen a very hard life. And carbon tells me it always had plenty of oil. 

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