Jump to content
sled_22

Everything chainsaws!

Recommended Posts

Here’s some before and after. Friday night in the shop was cleaning night. 

BAFBFC6E-62CF-49C7-B548-6E308D5FEAA5.jpeg

5F353408-19F7-459E-8639-1BD304A6101B.jpeg

0877A5D6-391D-446E-ACF6-20BCB2F95B1C.jpeg

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I got the MS290 finished up after the new flywheel came in.  I cut about 8 cookies then noodled a few "Y" splits of wood. The old girl cuts pretty good and even makes french fries.

The jonsered 2095 got the air filter mounted. It looks ridiculous and sweet all in the same. But with no new parts available, one must adapt and overcome. I started messing with the bar studs on the 2095 and found them to be JB welded in. Or something of that nature. The cement was very brittle, i was able to pry and chisel it with a screw driver and it all flaked away and broke the studs loose. SO i'm on the hunt for unobtanium barstudium (kids have been watching looney tunes). I may have found some that are available, but if not i might have to brush up on my lathe skills and turn down a piece of round bar.

IMG_8958[1].JPG

IMG_8950[1].JPG

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

got a 99 husqvarna in 2000. 51 model. that thing starts like a Harley. only one i ever seen do that. the mechanic at the shop said that model does that. something to do with the timing. any one know of a way to make it start smoother?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
16 hours ago, LedFTed said:

got a 99 husqvarna in 2000. 51 model. that thing starts like a Harley. only one i ever seen do that. the mechanic at the shop said that model does that. something to do with the timing. any one know of a way to make it start smoother?

Ted, I don't have a good answer for you. I'm not overly familiar with those model saws although I have heard the model 41 is a premier light and strong saw. I'm sure the 51 is in the same family. Premium fuel mixed with good synthetic 2 stroke oil at 50:1 helps. Old fuel always makes stuff start harder. If it still runs strong i'm sure its just the nature of the beast. Maybe it's time to upgrade to a lighter saw with a decomp. button? Or muffler mod. what you have and let it talk to you like a Harley too?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

i bought a red-max. nice lil' saw. i dont know if its a branch of husquvarna, or jonsered, the branch might be the same. got a red-max trimmer too. i like them both.

they are both lite, and work like something heavier.

Edited by LedFTed
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Did some work on the 2095 tonight. Bar studs were stripped and repaired once before. I found a product called e-z lok inserts. Basically a double threaded insert. So I tapped the case out to 9/16 - 12 and put these inserts in. Smothered in red locktite. It’s all assembled and ready to test tomorrow. I’ll try to get some videos in the big wood. 

C56520A5-86C0-403B-A2DC-6CD9548C8FD8.jpeg

AF15D815-8E10-46BC-B45F-4C1E7DDF2DE2.jpeg

DF8C1999-A568-4FF5-B0FF-6DDDEC2DE1EB.jpeg

38D3E41A-CCEE-4B53-ADAC-9215A1D6BAFF.jpeg

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

A few weeks ago when doing some light cutting I broke the pull cord on the MS180C I got from a buddy (free saw, had a melted crankcase and smoked clutches from being run with the brake on, I replaced the crankcase and clutch).

 

I HATED that "ex-pull" crap on the saw, so rather than replace the pull cord, I just got a new recoil/side cover from a regular MS180 without that "ex-pull" crap and installed it.  Works great and starts like a regular saw now. 

 

I used a Farmertec/Hutzl china part, so didn't cost much either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
5 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

A few weeks ago when doing some light cutting I broke the pull cord on the MS180C I got from a buddy (free saw, had a melted crankcase and smoked clutches from being run with the brake on, I replaced the crankcase and clutch).

 

I HATED that "ex-pull" crap on the saw, so rather than replace the pull cord, I just got a new recoil/side cover from a regular MS180 without that "ex-pull" crap and installed it.  Works great and starts like a regular saw now. 

 

I used a Farmertec/Hutzl china part, so didn't cost much either.

I ended up just getting a 180 on a bundle deal. Nice light little saw. Pretty gutless compared to what I’m used to but I’ll definitely keep it around for light stuff. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Got the jonsered running today in some big stuff. Boy that’s a mans saw. Wouldn’t want to lug that around all day. But it sure runs strong. 
another video for your enjoyment. 

First videos sound didn’t work. Re-uploaded. 

Edited by sled_22
  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
18 hours ago, sled_22 said:

I ended up just getting a 180 on a bundle deal. Nice light little saw. Pretty gutless compared to what I’m used to but I’ll definitely keep it around for light stuff. 

 

 After running my 346XP, the MS 180 was about like trying to use a Dremel. 

 

That said, I probably don’t have $50 in it and everything works perfectly on it now, and it was a good learner saw for me to tinker on.

 

I now have a beater\loaner saw too if I need it

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Back in the fall, I bought a new 180 with the regular recoil starter, not the easy start.  It's not meant to be on par with  the bigger saws.  I use either my ms290 or 029 Super for regular firewood chores.  But for cutting smaller trees, limbs etc, I much prefer the 180.  It's so light it doesn't wear you out.  If you switch the stock .043 gauge bar to a .050 gauge it will cut so much better.  The thinner stock bar gets pinched way too easy and can be frustrating.  The wider one tends to chug on through.  I also put the metal dogs on it - it already had places to screw them on.

Edited by slowindown
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

It’s funny. I talked about the 180 then all of a sudden today I sold it. My uncle asked about it and he said he needed a little pruning saw. So he bought it. And I swong the 462 all day. 
helped my grandparents make some firewood and cut down dead ash trees in their yard. 

 

8585E90A-5797-4B6E-8DDE-145E10F7CB72.jpeg

B9C9ECA6-90C8-4DDE-B948-9BFC18217C4E.jpeg

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
On 4/10/2021 at 10:20 AM, slowindown said:

Back in the fall, I bought a new 180 with the regular recoil starter, not the easy start.  It's not meant to be on par with  the bigger saws.  I use either my ms290 or 029 Super for regular firewood chores.  But for cutting smaller trees, limbs etc, I much prefer the 180.  It's so light it doesn't wear you out.  If you switch the stock .043 gauge bar to a .050 gauge it will cut so much better.  The thinner stock bar gets pinched way too easy and can be frustrating.  The wider one tends to chug on through.  I also put the metal dogs on it - it already had places to screw them on.

 

Yeah, that's probably a good mod to look at doing.  Need to swap out the sprocket too to run a wider chain?  Happen to have links/part numbers to what you used?

 

I gotta say, I like it a lot more now that I got rid of that easy start crap.  I HATED that, but then I'm used to regular saws.

 

What "metal dogs" are you referring to?  I haven't done any chainsaw work at all other than swapping crankcases on this MS180, so I'm not up on the chainsaw parts descriptions.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
26 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

Yeah, that's probably a good mod to look at doing.  Need to swap out the sprocket too to run a wider chain?  Happen to have links/part numbers to what you used?

 

I gotta say, I like it a lot more now that I got rid of that easy start crap.  I HATED that, but then I'm used to regular saws.

 

What "metal dogs" are you referring to?  I haven't done any chainsaw work at all other than swapping crankcases on this MS180, so I'm not up on the chainsaw parts descriptions.


Dogs: (it came with 2. I can send you the other one if you want it. I think it had 2 sets of screws too) https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N0IJAD2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

bar and chain (this bar and chain works with the original sprocket-its only wider)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IDJW9GM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

Edited by slowindown
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
13 minutes ago, slowindown said:


Dogs: (it came with 2. I can send you the other one if you want it. I think it had 2 sets of screws too) https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N0IJAD2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

bar and chain (this bar and chain works with the original sprocket-its only wider)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IDJW9GM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

 

Huh, mine already had the metal dogs on it.  Weird.

 

And ordered the bar.  We'll see how it does.  Thanks for the links!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

the 99.huquvarna 51 has been sitting in the basement. for more then a few years i didnt feel like working on it. just needed to replace the chain. i had a chain sharpened. so, the other day i replaced it. i wasnt gettin oil to the the chain. the bar had been sitting for a longer time., different chain, i needed my older bar. this thread helped me., i did research on different forums, and found i needed to clean out the end of the bar, where the star is, an oil that. its got a different name, i just call it that. well, it worked.

 the difference between the varna and the red max... varna 13lbs roundabout, red 7lbs. [without bars/chains]..

Edited by LedFTed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
5 hours ago, LedFTed said:

 found i needed to clean out the end of the bar, where the star is, an oil that. its got a different name, i just call it that.

'Ted , do you know about shooting grease into the bearing at the tip of the bar , there is a tool that looks like a hyper-dermic needle to do the job 

 

image.pngimage.png

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
13 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

'Ted , do you know about shooting grease into the bearing at the tip of the bar , there is a tool that looks like a hyper-dermic needle to do the job 

 

image.pngimage.png

i didnt.., i know now. ya know how fond i am of needles an bearings. i used zoom oil., quality turbine oil, so they say. i like it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Well; just realized i been mixing the gas, 1 bottle per gallon for the past 2 maybe 3 times.. the red max's didnt smoke too much, that i noticed. except at start.. i was wondering why that bottle was so tall. turns out its for 2 gallons. 😁😁

i'm gonna blame it on the strokes for now, or the Fuchi thing, from china. [definitely n. china]..

besides,, i cant read the x-tra small print!! hahaha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

You did good LedFted, 50:1 mix is an EPA only thing and it's not enough oil.... in Europe the same saw models that are sold here are spec'd for more oil, 32:1 generally. I pay no attention to the EPA, I run 32:1 synthetic oil/gas mixes because 14,000 RPM two-strokes won't survive long term on 50:1 EPA mixes.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

guess i'll have to go synthetic. if my red max's like 25/1, who am i too complain. 😀

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Hey look at the bright side... 24:1 is a great break-in mix! You'll like the high-end, high-dollar synthetics, They don't smoke, don't leave any carbon deposits on the piston or inside the exhaust port (no risk of broken piston rings) and most of them have no strong odors either, so you can run fat oil mixes that your saw requires without consequences. Other than higher oil cost that is.... I like red oil, formulated for 15,000+ RPMs, an ester-based synthetic that burns clean. This one in fact. :-)

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
17 minutes ago, retro said:

Hey look at the bright side... 24:1 is a great break-in mix! You'll like the high-end, high-dollar synthetics, They don't smoke, don't leave any carbon deposits on the piston or inside the exhaust port (no risk of broken piston rings) and most of them have no strong odors either, so you can run fat oil mixes that your saw requires without consequences. Other than higher oil cost that is.... I like red oil, formulated for 15,000+ RPMs, an ester-based synthetic that burns clean. This one in fact. :-)

 

where do you get it.. the closest i could find was California..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...