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sled_22

Everything chainsaws!

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Yeah AS is riddled with ads now. Haven’t been there since it was bought but a couple times. 

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7 hours ago, TBRider said:

So apparently VerticalScope has bought Aboursite. They are getting their fingers into everything now.


They’re a pox on the interwebs

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6 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

@bcsman did you see / know about this ? ^^^^ i think you visit that site don't you ? I've been there a few times myself. 

 

 hank you for the heads up @TBRider

I know ownership has changed awhile ago but honestly I'm not aware who owns it now.  But it would not surprise me if it was VS.....

 

The website says it's owned by Johnson Management Inc. a Colorado corporation.  So is this a side corp for VS?  Don't know....

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Sounds good, I'm hoping to get a new oiler for the 61 today, still have to wait for the snow to melt off the wood pile

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Got the old 1978 Husqvarna 162se finished up today, ran about a tank through it fine tuning, for a 44 year old saw it still rips with a 20" bar and full chisel chain on it. I did a muffler mod on a cheap aftermarket one I got for the 61 I was rebuilding, then decided to put it on the 162. Tuned up the carb a bit more again, and she purrs nicely. I have no idea if this saw cut wood since the late 80 or not. I think the piston is a little bit scorned , noticed it with the muffler off, but once it goes I might put a 272 top on it and make it a real runner. Probably have the same plans for the 61 that's on the bench now, parts should be here next week, then I'll have two 62cc saws here, 1-55cc and a 30cc.

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I need to get out and cut some wood off my trails around the farm before spring hits.  I'm running out of time fast.

 

Couple of decent sized oaks down that aren't in the way, but I hate to let them sit and rot, and since I have the Father in Law's SXS, I can load the bed up with the wood to get it home.

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1 minute ago, 01RUBY500 said:

Are you using your standard crosscut chain or a rip chain?  

I bought a couple of these to try. Seemed to cut that oak pretty decent. 

image.jpg

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18 minutes ago, sled_22 said:

I bought a couple of these to try. Seemed to cut that oak pretty decent. 

image.jpg

Good deal, a ripping chain would cut better.  

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well I bit the bullet this weekend. Got a lot of production to pay for this little piggy. 

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I have 40 yo Craftsman 16 inch. Lasts forever if ya don’t use em LOLs.
No, blessed FIL (RIP) put an 18 inch bar and chain on it. I put it back original and will try to get some more work out of it.

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I have a 6 year old Stihl MS261 Pro saw that has been great. The only time I ever had trouble with it was when new and and hot and humid outside I couldn’t get it started when the saw was hot and I’d shut it off to refuel. I learned that it was ethanol fuel that it didn’t like. I have bought none ethanol fuel ever since. Lately this old starting problem has come back this summer.  Is it possible the station I’m buying my gas from has added ethanol to their gas even though it isn’t listed on their pump?  
Or any other ideas why it won’t start in this hot weather?  It starts great when the motor is cooled down. 

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Maybe excessive  heat is vaporizing the gas ---- or maybe when it is hot the compression is effected 

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54 minutes ago, 01RUBY500 said:

I have a 6 year old Stihl MS261 Pro saw that has been great. The only time I ever had trouble with it was when new and and hot and humid outside I couldn’t get it started when the saw was hot and I’d shut it off to refuel. I learned that it was ethanol fuel that it didn’t like. I have bought none ethanol fuel ever since. Lately this old starting problem has come back this summer.  Is it possible the station I’m buying my gas from has added ethanol to their gas even though it isn’t listed on their pump?  
Or any other ideas why it won’t start in this hot weather?  It starts great when the motor is cooled down. 


although the ethanol when hot doesn’t help, at this point in your saws life there could be other ignition issues starting to occur. I would start with a new plug. If that doesn’t help, your coil could be starting to go. Typical of them when it’s hot. The only other thing would be a loss of compression. Once the saw is hot it doesn’t have enough compression to restart easily. Take the muffler off and inspect the piston and cylinder for alum. transfer and scoring. 
 

 

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New spark plug was the first thing I tried. Also going to find ethanol free gas from another station 

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7 hours ago, 01RUBY500 said:

I have a 6 year old Stihl MS261 Pro saw that has been great. The only time I ever had trouble with it was when new and and hot and humid outside I couldn’t get it started when the saw was hot and I’d shut it off to refuel. I learned that it was ethanol fuel that it didn’t like. I have bought none ethanol fuel ever since. Lately this old starting problem has come back this summer.

 

I have a 3-year old  (latest version) MS261 with conventional carb, non-Mtronic and I think the only differences between the early version and latest are mostly cosmetic, fuel efficiency improvement and weight saving parts design. The internal motor parts are the pretty much the same parts. Both motors are piston-port designs.

 

The MTronic ignition option adds complexity that can affect starting though, if your saw has that. So if your saw has the MTronic ignition option then at the first sign of trouble you should always perform the MTronic reset/relearn procedure before doing anything else to it.

 

First question I have is does the motor idle good? Is the idle robust and does it idle down at a normal slow (about 2800 RPM) speed?

 

Idling performance tells ya a lot about the condition of a two-stroke motor.... because as the motor ages and wears over time the idle performance becomes less robust and eventually ya gotta compensate for weakening idle by increasing the idle enrichment slightly and increase the idle speed to keep the motor running while idling. Wearing motors begin to start much harder as they age too, that's normal behavior because two-strokes must be able to support (& maintain)  higher-than-atmospheric pressure inside the crankcase through the duration of the power stroke. Excessively worn motors fail to completely fill the crankcase with fresh air/fuel and they also leak some of the inadequate volume of high pressure gases from the crankcase while running, that's why poor idle performance and increasing difficulty in starting are the first two things ya notice as a two-stroke motor wears and ages.

 

Another condition that will affect poor idling and starting performance is a restricted or plugged up exhaust port and/or a plugged up muffler. The exhaust port and muffler will get carbon deposits built up inside them over time if the fuel quality is poor, the fuel mixture is adjusted too rich, and/or if the premix oil quality is poor. So always use a decent quality of gasoline, non-ethanol, with at least an 89 octane rating (or 91/92 if you can get it at the pump). Premix oil quality varies greatly by brand and application so it's important that you choose the best that you can buy. For instance, the factory recommended Stihl premix oil is one of the worse oils you can buy for your saw.... extensive testing shows that Stihl oil burns incompletely (smells bad too when ya mix it at safer, higher performance, wear limiting ratios above 50-1- that odor is your first clue ya got garbage oil in it) and carbon builds up very fast inside exhaust ports. Stihl oil is so bad for your saw motor that they wear out much faster because excessive, gritty carbon emissions chew up the piston, rings and cylinder lining. Most saws that consume Stihl or other cheap oils require periodic carbon deposits removal in the exhaust port.

 

So take the muffler off and with the piston near TDC carefully remove all of the carbon from the exhaust port and muffler outlets before ya go any further. You can reuse the original metal muffler gasket by putting a thin coating of automotive silicone gasket maker on both sides of that gasket.

 

Finally, you must increase your oil premix ratio to 32-1 if you are currently following the EPA regulation of 50-1. The EPA (factory adheres to EPA regs) recommended oil mix ratio decreases the service life of the motor greatly (roughly a three-fold decrease in life expectancy) and the low ratio of lubricating oil causes the rings, piston and the crankshaft seals to seal poorly while the motor is in operation - which contributes to and initiates poor idle performance and hard starting. Higher oil premix ratios also raise the boiling point (the temp where liquids turns to vapor) of gasoline which aids in restarting a hot motor and aids in producing a more robust idle.

 

It's attention to the littlest details that add up to contributing the most in two-stroke performance and service life, especially a good saw motor like a Stihl... since the MS261 free-revs at more than 14,000 RPMs and cuts most efficiently at about 12,500 RPMs loads, a good saw motor requires the best modern oil formulation that money can buy. Switch to a good, proven in testing synthetic oil formulated for extreme RPMs duty and mix it at 32-1. One of the best in testing Premix oils (tested the best in class in a 2016 trial of all major performance brands) is Maxima Formula K2. Back up your opinion of premix oils with proven data and pay the price, it's worth every cent in a $600 saw!

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Yes my saw idles great and is still very robust at idle. I will take your advice and pull the muffler off and check that as you mentioned. I have always used what I consider the best 2 cycle oil on the market from independent lab tests and my own 40 years of experience and racing 2 strokes and that is Amsoil’s 2 cycle oils and mixed at 100:1 as Amsoil recommends. I seldom have any carbon buildup from using this oil but like you said worth checking when I get a chance later this week. 
And I do have the Mtronic carb. 

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6 hours ago, 01RUBY500 said:

best 2 cycle oil on the market from independent lab tests and my own 40 years of experience and racing 2 strokes and that is Amsoil’s 2 cycle oils and mixed at 100:1 as Amsoil recommends.

 

Your hard starting issue probably never had anything to do with the gas you buy, but insufficient oil. You been had by Amsoil's outrageous fraudulent marketing claims. Firstly those "independent lab tests" were revealed to be completely fraudulent. If I remember right there was a lawsuit filed against them for their false claims too, I can't remember what the settlement ended up to be. Secondly, ya gotta put a sufficient volume of lubricating oil in the gas... 100:1 ratio = 1.28 ounces of oil per gallon of gas. That's 1% oil by volume... barely enough volume of lubricant to prevent the piston from seizing up, so you been fortunate so far that it hasn't seized. I doubt you'll find any carbon buildup in the exhaust port... there is no such thing as a super-natural magic oil that performs so wondrous in 14,000 RPM two-stroke motors that ya don't even have to supply but a couple drops per minute. I'm not belittling you at all... got no bad intent... its simple, you were fooled by a "marketing claim" and now you likely have worn moving parts to deal with. I'd mix up a batch of 32:1 (not amsoil) and see if that fixes the starting issue.

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I've been using the Amsoil two stroke synthetic in my Echo backpack blower and Husqvarna saws with no issues whatsoever.   I do mix it a little heavier than 50:1.  My thoughts are if you go to the 50:1 line and pour the oil in, some stays in the container.  I usually go about half way between 40 and 50.

I'm also using E10 in everything I own.  The Echo is 8 yrs old, the biggest one they make and gets used quite a bit.  I just finished my 11th quart of oil and the Echo has used 95% of that gas.  That's close to 120 gallons of fuel through that blower.   My wife loves that thing.  

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7 hours ago, retro said:

 

Your hard starting issue probably never had anything to do with the gas you buy, but insufficient oil. You been had by Amsoil's outrageous fraudulent marketing claims. Firstly those "independent lab tests" were revealed to be completely fraudulent. If I remember right there was a lawsuit filed against them for their false claims too, I can't remember what the settlement ended up to be. Secondly, ya gotta put a sufficient volume of lubricating oil in the gas... 100:1 ratio = 1.28 ounces of oil per gallon of gas. That's 1% oil by volume... barely enough volume of lubricant to prevent the piston from seizing up, so you been fortunate so far that it hasn't seized. I doubt you'll find any carbon buildup in the exhaust port... there is no such thing as a super-natural magic oil that performs so wondrous in 14,000 RPM two-stroke motors that ya don't even have to supply but a couple drops per minute. I'm not belittling you at all... got no bad intent... its simple, you were fooled by a "marketing claim" and now you likely have worn moving parts to deal with. I'd mix up a batch of 32:1 (not amsoil) and see if that fixes the starting issue.

Well we will have to agree to disagree on the AMSOIL, like I said I have had 40+ years of experience with it never had an issue even when I was racing two stroke dirtbike‘s in motocross 125, 250, and 500cc.  never had a ring failure in all that time and never had to rebuild with new rings and pistons like other guys in the racing circuit that did it quite frequently because they were using the Dino two cycle oil and I always mixed it 100:1, these motorcycles were high rev motors 14k rpm’s especially in the 125. I had such good luck with the Amsoil products that I became a Amsoil dealer 30 years ago I don’t know about your claim about a lawsuit, being an Amsoil dealer all these years I’ve never heard anything about it. 
A very close friend of mine owns a logging business and they run Stihl and Husqvarna chainsaws and he has been using AMSOIL his entire career (30+ years) in all of his companies saws and never had a failure related to oil.  I did call him this morning to talk to him about this issue he thinks it is probably the coil so I will replace that he did tell me that because they are running saws all day long at high RPMs he mixes his oil ratio with Amsoil at 80:1, so I may try that. Thanks 

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Also this explains exactly my issue, so definitely a new ignition coil is in my future.

 

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