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sled_22

Everything chainsaws!

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Got rippin into my free 041AV tonight and confirmed the hot saw shut down I’m afraid. I’ll have to see how much rings and piston is gonna be before I see if it’s worth rebuilding or parting out. 😞 

she’s a dirty girl. Cylinder is scored a little too. But otherwise it’s not in bad shape. 

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1 hour ago, LedFTed said:

i havent seen a piston scored like that.

The air filter was pretty dirty and not seated correctly on the intake so i'm guessing she sucked quite a bit of debris.

I have a new Hyway piston assembly coming along with carb kit, fuel lines, air & fuel filters, and flywheel puller so on christmas break i'm hoping to get the ol' gal cleaned up.

Hopefully the cylinder will clean up. I see a lot of people use muratic acid to clean the cylinder. Hopefully I can find some of that at a reasonable price locally.

I'm about $45 into the saw so I'm hoping this fixes everything up good.

 

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hard to believe the previous owner didnt check the air filter more often, as a rule i check mine every day, not really to clean it but (maybe) just be sure it's not vibrated loose, etc. 

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The editor posted the pictures but not the text.

 

This is the saw that I just bought at the local pawn store.  Stihl 028AV super with 20" bar, 250 plus tax and it runs and cuts pretty well.

 

The running joke is that I run my saw less time than most of you guys spend filing the saw.  I bought this to replace a hard starting Craftsman saw that probably isn't worth fixing.  It will sit in the garage for months at a time,  but I hope it will start each time by the 5th pull 

 

I am not sure what fuel/oil ratio is because i can't find any labels on the saw.  My brother and a buddy that clears trees on the powerline run theirs 50:1.  Would I be OK with that or would a little more oil be better?  I plan to run 30wt oil for bar oil.

 

The 20" bar is fine, but I am curious what the biggest bar is that this saw will handle well.  If I run across a deal on a longer bar I would buy it if it would work.

 

Thanks for any help or insights.

Steve

 

 

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On 12/17/2020 at 4:13 AM, sled_22 said:

The air filter was pretty dirty and not seated correctly on the intake so i'm guessing she sucked quite a bit of debris.

I have a new Hyway piston assembly coming along with carb kit, fuel lines, air & fuel filters, and flywheel puller so on christmas break i'm hoping to get the ol' gal cleaned up.

Hopefully the cylinder will clean up. I see a lot of people use muratic acid to clean the cylinder. Hopefully I can find some of that at a reasonable price locally.

I'm about $45 into the saw so I'm hoping this fixes everything up good.

 

The muriatic acid is used to remove the aluminium build up (q-tips-h2o rinse), won't do much for scratches.  It is readily available and cheap at most hardware stores.

Edited by CamKnouff
self correct didn't self correct.
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6 hours ago, Pampas56 said:

The editor posted the pictures but not the text.

 

This is the saw that I just bought at the local pawn store.  Stihl 028AV super with 20" bar, 250 plus tax and it runs and cuts pretty well.

 

The running joke is that I run my saw less time than most of you guys spend filing the saw.  I bought this to replace a hard starting Craftsman saw that probably isn't worth fixing.  It will sit in the garage for months at a time,  but I hope it will start each time by the 5th pull 

 

I am not sure what fuel/oil ratio is because i can't find any labels on the saw.  My brother and a buddy that clears trees on the powerline run theirs 50:1.  Would I be OK with that or would a little more oil be better?  I plan to run 30wt oil for bar oil.

 

The 20" bar is fine, but I am curious what the biggest bar is that this saw will handle well.  If I run across a deal on a longer bar I would buy it if it would work.

 

Thanks for any help or insights.

Steve

 

 

All Stihl saws, at least the older ones which the 028 Super is, has the same 50-1 mixture recommended.  My thinking is a 20" bar on that saw is about max what it can reasonably handle.  Most would run a 16" for the power that saw generates.  Anything larger than the 20" is just gonna lag and make you cut at a very slow pace.  Of course any saw and blade combination works best with a sharp chain.....

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2 hours ago, CamKnouff said:

The muriatic acid is used to remove the aluminium build up (q-tips-h2o rinse), won't do much for scratches.  It is readily available and cheap at most hardware stores.

Yeah I need to get the cylinder off and have an inspection. Hopefully it’s just build up and not any deep scratches. It still ran when disassembled so there’s hope it’s not too dinged up. 
 

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8 hours ago, Pampas56 said:

The editor posted the pictures but not the text.

 

This is the saw that I just bought at the local pawn store.  Stihl 028AV super with 20" bar, 250 plus tax and it runs and cuts pretty well.

 

The running joke is that I run my saw less time than most of you guys spend filing the saw.  I bought this to replace a hard starting Craftsman saw that probably isn't worth fixing.  It will sit in the garage for months at a time,  but I hope it will start each time by the 5th pull 

 

I am not sure what fuel/oil ratio is because i can't find any labels on the saw.  My brother and a buddy that clears trees on the powerline run theirs 50:1.  Would I be OK with that or would a little more oil be better?  I plan to run 30wt oil for bar oil.

 

The 20" bar is fine, but I am curious what the biggest bar is that this saw will handle well.  If I run across a deal on a longer bar I would buy it if it would work.

 

Thanks for any help or insights.

Steve

 

 

That’s a fine saw you have there. The supers were always good runners. I have a 290 that’s a little smaller than that 029 super and I run a 20” bar. Good sharp chains and she’ll eat 20” without much struggle. Just don’t lean on it. 
I wouldn’t recommend much more than a 20” though. 
50:1 is what you’ll want in that saw. You can go as high as 40:1 and be ok too. 
as for bar oil. I would run something thicker. Especially with the 20” bar. I just buy the stihl bar oil. It’s less than $10 typically. 

Edited by sled_22

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3 hours ago, CamKnouff said:

The muriatic acid is used to remove the aluminium build up (q-tips-h2o rinse), won't do much for scratches.  It is readily available and cheap at most hardware stores.

 

Out of curiosity, you just qtip a little acid on the cylinder, let it eat, and then wash it off? 

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Basically, that's it.  work on the Aluminium build up/deposit.  Do not leave on too long Q-tip rubbing (rubbing,rubbing), rinse, repeat more times than you would like.  Works well,  common practise on two stroke snowmobiles, which I have a lot.

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041 rebuild tair down. Cylinder is salvageable. No rod play. Just a cooked piston I believe. 

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it's not as bad as i thought it would be, now just that pesky delay on parts ? i meant to ask, how does the air mount with screws, or ? I'm not too familure with that model. 

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thx! the reason i asked was because you had mentioned ^^^ it wasn't sealed properly via the previous owner. looks like she's in good hands now! 

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Here’s the crank case. Cleaning up nicely. I’m just glad the bottom end is good. 
I shouldn’t be too surprised I guess.  It did run prior to disassembly. It just quit after 15 minutes. 

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Any of u guys use this premix fuel? I was mixing my fuel with the little bottles to 5 litres of fuel. By switching over to the pre mix, I can actually start the MS250 1 pull quicker! Sounds crazy but true..

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i never have, wheeler, but my small engine guy Brian / bryan (how ever he spells it) brags on stihl pre mix, but it's a pre pay special order at my local ace hardware , and very pricey, but, I've been tempted to give it a go, but haven't pulled the trigger yet. 

image.jpg

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5 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

i never have, wheeler, but my small engine guy Brian / bryan (how ever he spells it) brags on stihl pre mix, but it's a pre pay special order at my local ace hardware , and very pricey, but, I've been tempted to give it a go, but haven't pulled the trigger yet. 

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exactly the responses I’ve heard. The ones who swear by it brag it up. All I can say.. went from a total of 6 pulls to 5 pulls & starts.. that proves to me something...

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That premix stuff around here is $20 a gallon...oh heck no I'm not paying that much for gas.  I buy ethanol free gas for $2.69 a gallon and mix it with Amsoil Saber 2 cycle oil at 100:1 with awesome results.  And my spark plugs last for years.

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@01RUBY500 ya I guess it depends on how much a guy uses his saw... I only use mine for camping so I don’t mind.. if I burnt wood at home like I used too.. be too expensive & not worth it.. 

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that to was a factor in why i don't use it, but i sure would like give it just one shot, and see the defrence, sparkplug is always has a tan tip with no carbon build up, you can't beat a NGK plug. 

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On 12/21/2020 at 3:30 AM, Pampas56 said:

The editor posted the pictures but not the text.

 

This is the saw that I just bought at the local pawn store.  Stihl 028AV super with 20" bar, 250 plus tax and it runs and cuts pretty well.

 

The running joke is that I run my saw less time than most of you guys spend filing the saw.  I bought this to replace a hard starting Craftsman saw that probably isn't worth fixing.  It will sit in the garage for months at a time,  but I hope it will start each time by the 5th pull 

 

I am not sure what fuel/oil ratio is because i can't find any labels on the saw.  My brother and a buddy that clears trees on the powerline run theirs 50:1.  Would I be OK with that or would a little more oil be better?  I plan to run 30wt oil for bar oil.

 

The 20" bar is fine, but I am curious what the biggest bar is that this saw will handle well.  If I run across a deal on a longer bar I would buy it if it would work.

 

Thanks for any help or insights.

Steve

 

 

Run a synthetic oil at 32 to 1. That's an old saw and you are running a worn cylinder.......it's gonna need all the help you can give it. Also run bar chain lube only!!!!!!!! It is very thick and tacky. You will wear out your bar, chain and both sprockets prematurely.

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i have always used stihl synthetic 50:1 mix, plus stihl bar oil, but the major defrence was tossing that champion plug. knock on wood, not a single issue fuel, or engine wise from new.... now when it comes to pinched bars ... yeah, I've had to replace a few (4 sence she was purchased new two by me, that's why i don't loan my stuff out!!)  lol, the latest was not pinched but was bent because i didn't  count on a sudden gust of wind, so that's on me, I'm just glad i was able to straighten the bar, and the wind gust was to my back. 

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