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_Wilson_™

Fire wood burners

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That Chinese carb started on the 3rd pull and ran great , split  two golf cart loads of wood 

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Here is a pic of wood split with a Chinese carb on the splitter , purred like Mike the LSU mascot -----  fifteen dollar,  no  hollar ---  LOL----  it worked on my Honda GCV 160 , but I don't recommend a Chinese carb for your Honda ATV 

 

Oh, if anyone wondered why the wood is tacked around the fire pit , that is called Coon'! seasoning of the wood , eh !!! 

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On 12/9/2019 at 6:39 PM, bcsman said:

Our governor here in Michigan wanted to add a 45 cents gas tax to fix the roads,  didn't get her way thankfully... 

all them politicians, no matter where ya live, want to add a road tax.. i doubt any of them use it to fix the roads, should/when the tax pass. just a scam.

2 cent opinion.

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5 minutes ago, LedFTed said:

all them politicians, no matter where ya live, want to add a road tax.. i doubt any of them use it to fix the roads, should/when the tax pass. just a scam.

2 cent opinion.

yea the road tax goes to whatever they want but

 sounds good...

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3 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

No political talk on my thread!! 

thanks for the heads up.

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i got a 51 model Husquvarna. got in in 2000, though its a 1999 model year. is from a dealer. still running. no bulb to prime it with, just pull out the choke, go on with it. a friend was using it to help me cut down sticker locust trees. it got hot an locked up. only thing i can figure is, maybe someone didnt mix the oil right. <<<<, meaning me. after it cooled down, you could use the pull rope to turn the engine over. i took it apart. the cylinder wall was some scored. the piston just had some melting, about the ring area, and the ring was shot. a bit of melting, and broke. everyone i talked to, including the dealer, said it was mostly shot. i could buy a new cylinder head,piston, and ring, it might work. it cost so much, i couldnt do it. i got the burrs/melts, out of the piston, find sanded/polished the cylinder wall, and bought a new ring. it cost $11.oo dollars. the saw is still running, starts like a Harley, always did. it will give you a yank, on your arm, when you fire it up. i wonder what a ring cost this days.. it did have a problem when i first bought it. the coils were bad. i had replaced 2, the guy in the back told me the problem was. the mechanic, e said i could buy a used one for $25.oo, i went for it. the saw has been running since, cept for the melt down thing, and once a fuel line went bad. she's a pretty good saw, she is.

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Those old Husky's are pretty solid, had a 55 for a few years.  not a problem finding one for sale on the arborist websites.  Does sound like you were lacking a little oil with the fuel.  As far as a fuel bulb I hate those things.....

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3 hours ago, bcsman said:

we're bad....

didnt mean to drag ya down with me, i just say what i think at the time. gotta really short memory span. sometimes the memory works, sometimes it dont. 🙂

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1 hour ago, bcsman said:

Those old Husky's are pretty solid, had a 55 for a few years.  not a problem finding one for sale on the arborist websites.  Does sound like you were lacking a little oil with the fuel.  As far as a fuel bulb I hate those things.....

yep, i didnt get upset, when it conked. even if my friend did cause a problem, i didnt think e had, i still could not be mad. i do have dufus friends more of less. that would be different.

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Actually.... You can lock one up under extreme rpms...... Easily ..... That's why i choose more power at a low rpm with a good razor sharp chain, why people say run a chain saw wide open is beyond me, that's just ignorant thinking.... And in my book old school stihl saws rule.... Lets see a pics of you wood chips ..... I cut through some green hackberry over 14 inch in diameter today, and  had no issues.....

image.jpg

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I must disagree with ya Wilson. The newer generations of Stihl Pro saws are way better saws than the old school stuff was. More torque and horsepower per CC, a LOT less weight (magnesium cases) and a lot more strength in the cases, a lot less fuel consumption, run quieter with rust-free stainless steel mufflers, are a LOT easier to disassemble, maintain and keep clean, replaceable/interchangeable splined sprockets, needle bearing clutch drums, adjustable chain oilers, air/chip separation/injection that keep fines out of the air filters, large diameter twist-lock, high flow pleated air filters that stay clean and completely dry and are easier to blow clean.

 

Chainsaw motors are specifically designed and intended to operate wide open at all times. If you feather the throttle to maintain lower RPMs than they were designed to operate the oil does not vaporize and separate from the fuel inside the crankcase readily, the main bearings and cylinder starves for undiluted lubrication and the motors fail early. Don't do that! Put a proper full chisel chain on it and run it wide open in the cut. But do your body and mind a favor and retire that old underpowered plastic boat anchor. Modern pro saws are smartly engineered machines that do more work in less time and with a lot less expense and a lot less physical effort. Which makes them safer saws to carry all day as well.

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YES! less weight would be NICE! I like some of the improments stihl has done o er the years ..... But for me..... I don't really like change, i tend to find something that works great, and I'll stick with it .... So I'll hang onto her :-)... Besides.... I've had several offers from the mechanics at my local ace hardware... Altho..... They do NOT like that short oem bar 😐 

 

 

Never had an issue cleaning the exhaust  and mine does have an adjustable chain/bar oiler , nor an issue with damp air filters nor blowing it clean, i should have been more clear, I'm  not talking feathering the throttle, but then again ... I'm also not talking white knuckle throttle ether.... but just about THERE. (With an engine load only)    She's been a great saw for over 30 years.... All factory even the sprocket needle bearing,  exceptions/replaced parts ----tank filter, air filter bar/chain, sprocket, spark plug, AND  glad you posted.... Because I'm a stickler about maintenance !!!! LOL and your post reminded me i haven't checked the exhaust sence last season, SO..... As a few minutes ago, i checked her out... SPOTLESS  also filed the bar edges, and flipped it, and YES as for chain type full skip chisel is all ill run,

image.jpg

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When running a longer bar and a skip-tooth .404 'falling saw', it's run at full throttle. The revs can be pulled down by hard feeding the saw.  Most fallers feed the saw with their knee.  Saw dogged into the tree, right hand lightly on the throttle, feeding the saw knee.  Head up looking for that 'widow maker' . . . . . 

The saw is often 'burped' (flicked throttle) when limbing downed timber. Long bar, easier on the back when limbing . . .  Fallers liked the power of the old Sthil 090, but that square saw would beat the crap out of your legs when feeding the saw in a cut. It was often said . . . square saw, built by square heads.  The 2100 Husqvarna blew the old 090 Sthil out of the water . . . 

Stay safe with your saw of choice.  🌲

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11 minutes ago, Macarena Man said:

When running a longer bar and a skip-tooth .404 'falling saw', it's run at full throttle. The revs can be pulled down by hard feeding the saw.  Most fallers feed the saw with their knee.  Saw dogged into the tree, right hand lightly on the throttle, feeding the saw knee.  Head up looking for that 'widow maker' . . . . . 

The saw is often 'burped' (flicked throttle) when limbing downed timber. Long bar, easier on the back when limbing . . .  Fallers liked the power of the old Sthil 090, but that square saw would beat the crap out of your legs when feeding the saw in a cut. It was often said . . . square saw, built by square heads.  The 2100 Husqvarna blew the old 090 Sthil out of the water . . . 

Stay safe with your saw of choice.  🌲

Dad bought some land back in the early 80's and had it select cut.  All the loggers were using Husky 2100's, and after quizzing them and doing some research, he bought one.

 

Still in the box, never been used.😂

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Never seen 090 ...... But from my looking 137 cc @  8.5 hp, and the ms 880  121.6 cc @ 8.6 hp.... Both too dang big for my deal... Lol

 

These two have my attention Ms 661 Or Ms 462 ...... Now.... I'm just looking, and in NO rush... To pick out a brand new expensive stihl, just spit balling.......

 

Still in the box, never been used.

 

 

i can't figure this ^^^^^ lol! And didn't you say he's also got a wood splitter still in it's crate ??? I do believe there's no telling what treasures y'all have, or are these all his (off limits to you) << cause i know how (off limit is) that is... Lol

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Ya those would be mighty fine gifts to someone, hint hint....

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3 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

 are these all his (off limits to you) << cause i know how (off limit is) that is... Lol

 

Nailed it.

 

Probably a good thing he hasn't let me use a lot of this stuff over the years, because when I was younger I didn't appreciate good tools and wouldn't have taken care of it.

 

But yeah, he had that 2100 that's never been used, and a 372XP that had never been used.  After I cut this tree up as much as I could using his old Homelite XL with a 16" bar, he FINALLY got the 372 out of the box and let me use it to finish up the tree.  That was only after I got to the point where the trunk was too thick for me to match cuts down either side with the 16" bar.

 

My girls are 16 and 14 now, so this was probably 6-8 years ago. 

 

 

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My go to saw is a Stihl MS261 pro series. I also have a MS193 for lighter work. I have a woodshed that holds 9 cords of wood that I work year round to keep filled. I burn about 5 cords a year. 

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I run a stihl ms 291 here, not a bad saw but I think I need a bigger one.

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What is the story of the log structure in the background of the last pic? 

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Does anyone else have a primitive enough stove to use waste oil in them? I go through quite a bit in my shop barrel stove. 

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