Fire wood burners

[TBRider 1,406]

We have both 18v and 20v batteries here, just 1 more AA battery in the little case between the two....

[87Iroc 344]

5 hours ago, Turbo Twister said:

Yeah, I don't like the lack of noise start up like a patrol saw, I actually thought there was a problem with it initially as it won't start up when the chain brake is on, not even a noise! It's a bit bulky on weight with a flexvolt battery but it lasted nearly an hour with cutting which to me, is impressive.

 

18v here is the same as your 20v there, just named differently.

 

The battery life is truly impressive I agree. The saw has its place and I would own one if I was looking for a small light duty saw.

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

6 hours ago, Turbo Twister said:

As mentioned before on a page way back in this thread, I have petrol saws for their place, I got this one for site work as we cannot use petrol saws on some sites. I cut some beech beams with it yesterday and it was cutting quite well. It is great for anything up to about 6 inch diameter. 

 

looks like turbo is limited  to what he can use on the job. so I'd say this one he picked has its place already, IMO not bad for a six inch diameter, plus lasting an hour ? I'm not impressed easy, but i am on his choice. 

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

sled you had inquired about dragging logs last night, this an older pic of a tree split in half at the end of my drive, that i drug up a loose gravel drive way (never mind the chain hanging on the rack that's not how i drug them, lol) and those tires are Carlisle 489, with those new mudlites your putting on you shouldn't have any issues, i never have with my other 300, even when crossing certain spots on the cave spring branch, she's a tad high in this pic . 

[sled_22 845]

Never showed you guys my old Elroy WI wood furnace I have in the garage. 25 deg F  outside and 65 in the garage 28x35 garage with insulated walls but no insulation in the ceiling. 

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

nice sepup!

 

i see what you were talking about last night, the bigger squirrel cage fan on the back, i must have missed that pic, that smaller one on the front looks like a dayton, kind of like mine,  i had the damper flap snap off, had my other one for parts which came in handy, just had to change out the housing, been working great every sence then. 

[sled_22 845]

10 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

nice sepup!

 

i see what you were talking about last night, the bigger squirrel cage fan on the back, i must have missed that pic, that smaller one on the front looks like a dayton, kind of like mine,  i had the damper flap snap off, had my other one for parts which came in handy, just had to change out the housing, been working great every sence then. 

Ohh sure. Yeah I need to figure something out with the housing in the front. The stove took some learning to figure out. I can dampen it down and it’ll burn for 12 hours but doesn’t put out much heat. But if I open it up it’ll heat like ! but can burn a big pile of wood in one day

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

it automatically air drafts via that opening on the blower fan, i take it that's what your talking about ? or not enough air ?

 

my wood furness started to run away when that fan damper flap stop snapped  off, thankfully, i noticed it in time before it got even close boiling. 

[sled_22 845]

Kind of. The blower housing in the front which is blown into the fire box of my stove just has one side open so it didn’t draw allot. I think I need to open it up or add a fan on a thermostat. The blower in the rear that blows around the fire box basically runs nonstop just to circulate air in the garage. 
It works good enough for a garage but could definitely be dialed in. 

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

adding a thermostat control for the circulating fan, and the fire box fan could be done, it's a good idea  IMO, mine works slightly defrent , it measures the water temp, but the idea would be the same just a higher rated thermostat would be needed for direct contact with the fire box, something like this. i believe this model is a completely mechanical. 

Edited November 15, 2020 by _Wilson_™

[sled_22 845]

Here’s my round oak parlor stove that we have in the cabin. Been many a times the bottom ring has been glowing cherry red. Cabin is all fixed up ready for the big gun hunt next weekend. 

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

that's a nice one, i can tell by the bottom color she's been hot! 

[sled_22 845]

10 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

that's a nice one, i can tell by the bottom color she's been hot! 

Yeah the old girl could use a little restoration. When the tree hit it knocked the stove pipe down, which lead to a lot of rain water going down the stove pipe. Rusted the top elbow out completely inside and did some damage to the stove. It still works fine for the 2 weeks a year she sees fire but being such a neat old stove i wish i had time to restore it somewhat.

 

[sled_22 845]

So @_Wilson_™ has me thinking about my wood furnace in the garage. I looked into those little thermostats and they are pretty cheap. I am no controls expert, how would you go about wiring this up?

I'm assuming i'd put that thermostat on/through the outer shell of the furnace but how do you get that transfered to the blower fan? Right now i just plug it into the wall.

I think i'd need to get a relay of some sort right? and then splice into the power cord of the blower fan to break/complete the loop from the relay with the thermostat being the on/off to the relay?

 

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

thank you, you had mentioned wanted it to be fine tune controlled  and i just got  to thinking how my wood boiler works, all manual thermo controlled I'd check with @SlammedRanger @jeepwm69 has a very nice heating system, he also might be of some ideas @bcsman is also a good one to check with. 

[jeepwm69 7,600]

5 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

thank you, you had mentioned wanted it to be fine tune controlled  and i just got  to thinking how my wood boiler works, all manual thermo controlled I'd check with @SlammedRanger @jeepwm69 has a very nice heating system, he also might be of some ideas @bcsman is also a good one to check with. 

 

My system is hot water floor heat with a circulation pump.

 

The thermostat is in the room, and is wired to the circulation pump, so when the temp drops below the set temp on the thermostat, the circulation pump comes on, pushing hot water into the floor pipes.

 

That said, it's electric (thermostat and circulation pump) so I'm no help on a mechanical setup.

 

For an electric setup you should be able to just wire up a regular thermostat where power is supplied to the fan when the temperature drops below the set temp on the thermostat.

[sled_22 845]

Right but i'm not as concerned about the temperature in the room as much as i am with the stove's internal temp. Basically like a safety so the blower will run when it needs to and not just all the time. It would also help with fire efficiency. Here's my setup minus the thermostat and relay. Those are what i have in questions right now. Is this even possible to do from an electrical standpoint? Basically a thermostat that turns the blower fan on at say 150 degrees and turns it off at 100 degrees.

And then ultimately, once i get the blower fan dialed in, then i could add a little blower to the fire box run off a separate thermostat. which would be reverse, on at 120 degrees, off above 150 and below 100? idk for sure yet the temps but thats the idea.

Edited November 16, 2020 by sled_22

[jeepwm69 7,600]

1 minute ago, sled_22 said:

Right but i'm not as concerned about the temperature in the room as much as i am with the stove's internal temp. Basically like a safety so the blower will run when it needs to and not just all the time. It would also help with fire efficiency. Here's my setup minus the thermostat and relay. Those are what i have in questions right now. Is this even possible to do from an electrical standpoint?

 

Typing as I think about this.  Kinda like 87 and 87A on a standard Bosch relay

 

Hypothetically, could you add a Y to the outlet on the blower exhaust ducting, when stove temp exceeds X degrees AND the room temp is > thermotstat temp it opens a flapper directing heat out through an exhaust duct leaving the building.?

 

If room temp is < thermostat then flapper would direct heat into the room. 

 

There are guys her who have forgotten more than I'll ever know about this kind thing.  Might be an easier way to do it, but that would allow you to have a thermostat control the temp in the room, and keep your wood stove from overheating. 

 

Only problem is, you'd waste a lot of wood venting heat to the outdoors once the room reached the temp on the thermostat.

 

 

[jeepwm69 7,600]

Maybe have the fan on anytime the stove temp reaches X degrees, and have a manual flapper to direct heat outside so you don't roast yourself out.  Might be easier to flip a lever when you start getting hot.  Obviously much simpler setup that way too.

 

[sled_22 845]

32 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Maybe have the fan on anytime the stove temp reaches X degrees, and have a manual flapper to direct heat outside so you don't roast yourself out.  Might be easier to flip a lever when you start getting hot.  Obviously much simpler setup that way too.

 

It's a big garage/shop. If it's 80 degrees in there when i'm not, no big deal. If i'm in there working and it gets too hot, then i just open the overhead door for 5 minutes and it'll be comfortable.

 

The main goal here is to keep air moving across the firebox to keep it "cool" (dissipate heat) when i'm not around to babysit it.

currently it operates such as: build fire, stove gets hot, i plug in blower and it warms shop. I then unplug blower and stove gets hot (not really the fire box but the sheetmetal housing does hence the heat marks on the side of it pictured before). So then i have to go plug the blower back to dissipate more heat. You see my cycle here.

Then if i want to leave the garage, i basically have to plug the blower in and let it run until i return.

 

Maybe this relay hooked up to a thermostat like wilson posted earlier???

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-Aube-RC840-Electric-Heating-Relay-w-o-Transformer

Edited November 16, 2020 by sled_22

[_Wilson_™ 6,564]

just tossing this idea out there, but how about a heavy duty light timer, if temp the of furness skin, and box is the concern , then a thermo setup for the firebox blower fan ? to regulate the amount of word the heater uses. just thinking of ideas. 

[SlammedRanger 1,556]

I would just get an adjustable thrmo-disk type thermostat (120 or 240 depending on what the blower runs on) that i would mount directly to the sheet metal so it can get heat soak off it. Then i would run that inline with the main power to the blower so it keeps the blower running anytime the metal is hot. But would cycle off if the metal cooled off. Atleast thats what im grasping your trying to do? Keep the metal from getting real real hot?

 

 

[SlammedRanger 1,556]

Well this is what i get for not going back and reading previous posts. Seems me and @_Wilson_™ are cut from the same cloth lol. I think we literally showed you the same exact picture even. But to answer your question on wiring. These are a hot wire thermostat. So you would put it inline with your hot power wire. Not the neutral. You would have to confirm your blower runs on 120 or 240. They make both just would need to confirm. These type of thermo disks are used on dryers and furnaces. So if you maybe saw one at a scrap yard or something they could be found even cheaper.(Free)

[sled_22 845]

30 minutes ago, SlammedRanger said:

Well this is what i get for not going back and reading previous posts. Seems me and @_Wilson_™ are cut from the same cloth lol. I think we literally showed you the same exact picture even. But to answer your question on wiring. These are a hot wire thermostat. So you would put it inline with your hot power wire. Not the neutral. You would have to confirm your blower runs on 120 or 240. They make both just would need to confirm. These type of thermo disks are used on dryers and furnaces. So if you maybe saw one at a scrap yard or something they could be found even cheaper.(Free)

Ohk I was thinking these wouldn’t handle 120vac. Which is why I assumed I needed to use a relay. Well if I just need to break the hot Wire on the blower then this will be an easy setup. 

[SlammedRanger 1,556]

Oh yeah they make them for 240. Actually about every single electric dryer has a similar one on the side of the heating element. Running inline with the 240 heating element. In that application it is a cycling thermostat. On and off as the clothes dry. If you cant already tell i did appliance repair for about 20 years of my life. Now im in hvac. So your situation falls directly in my wheel house lol