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freebo86

04 Foreman 450ES - Clean up, Repair, Maintenance & Enjoy

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On 1/11/2021 at 9:30 AM, retro said:

Yup, I just looked at the wiring diagram for the '04 TRX450FE and I do not see any provision for brake lights. Not on a USA model anyway.... So it looks like the master cylinder was swapped from another model with the switch sub-harness included. Follow that switch sub-harness to its end and see if it is connected to anything...?

 

I did last night actually, the cables for both sides come together and run down the column and tuck up just under the fuel tank at the front corner and plug into a white connector of sorts. Looks pretty OEM setup, the connector is even fastened to the frame to hold it in place so it doesnt move.. I'll snap a pic of it tonight.

 

It's tucked away right here.

 

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The switch on the left handlebar lever is the reverse switch. Yours does not look right to me though.... is this 450FE a Canadian model?

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3 minutes ago, retro said:

The switch on the left handlebar lever is the reverse switch. Yours does not look right to me though.... is this 450FE a Canadian model?

 

Yes, this 2004 Foreman 450ES (TRX450FE). It is Canadian, even has a thing by the battery compartment that says it meets Canadian Spark/Ignition Regulations or something of that kind.

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Well, its either for brake lights or for start in any gear. You get to discover that.... cause I don't have a Canadian wiring diagram. 🙂

 

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10 minutes ago, retro said:

Well, its either for brake lights or for start in any gear. You get to discover that.... cause I don't have a Canadian wiring diagram. 🙂

 

 

I'll tell ya right now, it won't start in any gear. Has to be in Neutral. If that is what you mean by start in any gear?

 

So what's interesting.....

 

-When I got the bike it was missing that back little cargo box below the rear rack.

- Also there was this black switch almost like a plunger near the foot brake (just a bit back) as well. I had no idea what it's for. It's still there, I figured it had something to do with going into reverse..

 

So I just googled "Foreman Brake Light" stumbled on quite a bit of stuff.. the below came up..

 

That switch I have by my footbrake looks exactly like that top thing I circled below.. a plunger. Also, that OEM Light assembly looks like it may go exactly where the rear cargo box typically is.. which explains why mine was never there.. but I also didn't have a light..

 

So looks like this bike is wired for brake lights! Just missing the actual Light? So perhaps the two wires by the voltage regulator are for the actual brake light itself then? If so, that is sweet! Because I actually wanted to do a MOD like this to show when I am applying brake etc. 

 

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Edited by freebo86

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Yup ya got a brake lights model. Congrats!

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2 minutes ago, retro said:

Yup ya got a brake lights model. Congrats!

 

Well this is sweet! Now question is, whose done this and where did they install the actual light? I dont want to get rid of that back little cargo box.

 

Should be easy enough to source a LED light off Amazon.

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Since it is a factory brake lights system you can just put the OEM parts back on it, no point in cobbling any china crap onto it.

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By the way the OEM rear brake light mounts onto the rear carrier rack, not the toolbox. The OEM brake light has a small bracket that bolts onto the carrier on the left side next to the hoop. Look on the rack and you'll see a small bracket welded into it with a hole drilled in it.... 🙂

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Take a look at this.  Might give you some ideas.

 

Do you have one switch or two on the MC?  If you only have one, you could add a newer brake MC with two switches and you should be able to rig up a start in gear feature as well.  On the newer machines, you can start them in gear, but only while holding the right brake lever back.

 

Those are both for 300 and 350 Ranchers, but the basics should be the same for any Honda from that era.

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42 minutes ago, retro said:

By the way the OEM rear brake light mounts onto the rear carrier rack, not the toolbox. The OEM brake light has a small bracket that bolts onto the carrier on the left side next to the hoop. Look on the rack and you'll see a small bracket welded into it with a hole drilled in it.... 🙂

 

Checked, that OEM light is $55 lol. I think the China crap may win this one 😞 I'll keep it tasty and clean. Maybe recess the light into the lower portion of the 2up seat?

This clean? 😄 https://www.amazon.ca/Light-Universal-Motorcycle-Brake-Running/dp/B07V26NPYN/ref=asc_df_B07V26NPYN/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335356525817&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12171816789527666982&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20123&hvtargid=pla-850764292983&th=1

 

36 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Take a look at this.  Might give you some ideas.

 

Do you have one switch or two on the MC?  If you only have one, you could add a newer brake MC with two switches and you should be able to rig up a start in gear feature as well.  On the newer machines, you can start them in gear, but only while holding the right brake lever back.

 

Those are both for 300 and 350 Ranchers, but the basics should be the same for any Honda from that era.

 

There is 1 switch per lever with 2 contacts on every switch. So a total of 2 switches on the front end.

Edited by freebo86

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3 hours ago, freebo86 said:

 

 

Checked, that OEM light is $55 lol. I think the China crap may win this one 😞 I'll keep it tasty and clean. Maybe recess the light into the lower portion of the 2up seat?

This clean? 😄 https://www.amazon.ca/Light-Universal-Motorcycle-Brake-Running/dp/B07V26NPYN/ref=asc_df_B07V26NPYN/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335356525817&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12171816789527666982&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=20123&hvtargid=pla-850764292983&th=1

 

 

There is 1 switch per lever with 2 contacts on every switch. So a total of 2 switches on the front end.

Ok, so those are both for brake lights.

 

You could probably mod your existing tail lights to something like I did on that 300 tail light.  Was cheap and easy.

 

 

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it mounts like this, (3rd, and last pic)  the one posted in your pic is for some sport modes, (1st pic)  those brackets welded on, are for reflectors, should be four of the rear rack, (on each corner) and two on each side of the front rack. (2nd pic) 

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So the other seal is in for the front prop shaft. I still am trying to understand how this seal sits and if its on the ridges of the shaft and what is meant by the "so it doesn't turn inside out"

 

image.png

 

This isn't my photo. But is the left seal supposed to be outside the boot? LOL..

 

image.png

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Should have clarified; do the seals get installed on the shaft and then the shaft gets installed? Or do they get installed on the diff and the other end towards the engine that has like a massive tube on it and then the shaft gets put in. 

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21 minutes ago, freebo86 said:

Should have clarified; do the seals get installed on the shaft and then the shaft gets installed? Or do they get installed on the diff and the other end towards the engine that has like a massive tube on it and then the shaft gets put in. 

I done away with my stock shaft and diff on my 2nd gen 450 and went 424 , but I did have to still deal with them cups , seem to remember  I put the cup on the groove on the shaft and rolled it back over itself , got it in place then rolled the boot back over and into place 

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2 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

I done away with my stock shaft and diff on my 2nd gen 450 and went 424 , but I did have to still deal with them cups , seem to remember  I put the cup on the groove on the shaft and rolled it back over itself , got it in place then rolled the boot back over and into place 


Man I am totally lost, I can’t understand what you did? Are we talking the bigger rubber boots? That look somewhat like axle boots but not ribbed?

Edited by freebo86

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  • Take the rubber band retainer off of the outer boot and slide it back toward the center of the shaft
  • Slide the rubber boot back toward the center of the shaft.
  • Pull the old cup seal off of the shaft by pulling it out of its retainer groove and slide it over the splines.
  • Clean all parts thoroughly with solvent and dry them completely.
  • Slide the new cup seal over the splines and push it back toward the center of the shaft until it snaps into its retainer groove just beyond the splines.
  • Coat the splines and the cup seal with MOS2 grease and pack a liberal amount of MOS2 grease in the depressed area between the lips of the cup seals.
  • Slide the clean rubber boot back over the installed cup seal until it snaps into place in its' retainer groove.
  • Roll the rubber band over the groove in the rubber boot carefully until the rubber band snaps into its groove around the circumference of the rubber boot.
  • Use a finger to grease the female splines inside the pinion joint of the front diff and coat the smooth pinion joint bore with MOS2 grease.
  • Use a finger to coat the splines & o-ring on the output shaft on the motor and the splines on the motor end of the shaft.
  • Insert the driveshaft carefully into the pinion joint of the front diff. You'll need to push the shaft in straight while keeping it centered up with the pinion joint. Wiggle the shaft (and watch) as you push the shaft in to insure that the lip on the cup seal does not get snagged on the edge of the  chamfer on the pinion joint bore and get turned inside out.
  • Slide the front diff back toward the motor and stab the driveshaft onto the output shaft splines. Make sure the driveshaft is slid all the way onto the output shaft. The o-ring seal on the output shaft should not be visible when you are done.
  • Put the front diff mounting bolts back in and tighten them up.
  • Celebrate. 🙂
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Got it put in. Wasn’t as bad. Took a bit of wiggling to get the shaft into the diff but it got on and everything lined up. Put majority of the machine back to there, drained the diff fluid and refilled to proper level. Pushed the ATV back and forth with no odd sounds coming from diff. 

 

 

 

Installed the front lift for Perfex and had to modify the brackets slightly to work with my 450 as the kit was for a 500 Rubicon. 
 

With the new shock mounts in order to line up lower shock bolt with this bracket it makes the shock sit on the a-arm. Would this be a issue? 
 

 

 

 

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do i see zip ties in place ? guess that would work. instead of the rubber bands.

Edited by _Wilson_™

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image.png

I don't like the looks of those brackets, I think they should have had more meat on them , at least enough to cover the head of the bolt and not even have that second unused hole ---- I think I would rip that shock clean out that mount the way I ride --- 

 

did that shock slide right in and the hole line up perfect with the a-arm hanging all the way down  , or did you have to raise the a-arm up or pry the shock to retract it for the bolt to line up 

 

also in one pic , it looks like the shock bracket is rubbing against the tube of the shock 

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