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04 Foreman 450ES - Clean up, Repair, Maintenance & Enjoy

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in this case .... i would check any, and all connections close to a heat source, any  sign of the wire harness being over heated ( dis colored  ) ? 

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I’ll have to check some thing. 
 

So I got out tonight to start with the valve adjustment as this think could use a tune up just by the sound of it. I don’t think this valve cover was ever removed by the feel of the bolts. 
 

needless to say I was able to fit a .013/.014 feeler in there.. so it was quite out of whack. Set it down to .006. 
 

here is a screenshot of the spark plug if it gives away hints to the experts. This is a new plug I install 200miles ago. 

 

Half tempted to pull the carburetor and clean? Thoughts? Or leave for another time! 
 


 

 

 

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On January 15, 2021 at 7:13 PM, freebo86 said:

I can go in it’s gonna fire instantly. Wait a week or two - same thing fires away.

 

i might would delay the carb build .. do the valves , and figure out why when it's warm it won't start, but when it's cold it will, the plug is a tad rich looking.... so I'd clean it, or put a new in run it, then check down the road. 

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So , does it sound and run better since the valve adjustment ? 

 

I think I would stick a new plug ( or like mentioned clean it ) , then monitor the plugs  burn , maybe since the valve adjustment was so ( out of wack as you put it ) , it could have  had an affect on how that plug looks right now , which might not look  too bad for a engine so far "Out of Wack "  --- in other words do a second diagnosis 

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Lol is the tolerance not that bad then considering the gaps were at .014 vs. Spec at .0006? Haven’t buttoned it back up to try was getting late last night. Will do today. And report back.
 

Took this video last night before starting the valve adjustment. Here is the screen reset I mentioned. Took a video as it’s worth more than my explaining.

 

 

Edited by freebo86

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How tall are your factory shocks?  MIght be able to use something from another model to level it out.  Honestly the front of the perfex isn't any different than any other lift.  It's the back that smooths out the ride.

 

Point being you could put slightly longer shocks up front and level it out, and it shouldn't sacrifice the better ride.

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So buttoned things up tonight, it started fine. Mind you the battery after yesterday’s cranking read barely 12V. I took it to the store today it load tested good but needed a charge to I trickle charged it while I finished with the valve stuff.

 

Put it all together it started good, but there is a pinging/clanking now when I give it throttle. What could cause this? I missed the part of the compression stroke being at TDC so how do I determine that? This may be my issue?
 

Tried to check the idle using the inductive meter and it was low, so I adjusted the idle adjustment screw now the stupid thing revs up like mad I can’t even turn it back down. Almost has a mind of its own.  

 

 

Edited by freebo86

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2 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

 

Thanks. I was using those instructions but totally missed the TDC at compression word. I could have been on this stroke or not, I'll have to recheck tonight. Guess that happens happens with lack of sleep, lol.

 

So easiest way to find compression is to stick finger the spark plug hole and watch for cylinder to come up, once that occurs check the flywheel and watch for the T to show and line it up?

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So took another stab it. I’m pretty sure I was at compression last night too. But I’m double checking it. 
 

so I pulled the starter rope and the wheel turns, it gets easy and then turns a bunch on its own with no real resistance. Then it gets harder, piston raises. TDC mark lines up. Rocker arms have some wiggle room back and forth. I set it to .006.. 

 

is this correct?

 

both lobes are down, valves springs up. I can see the cylinder in the spark plug hole. 
 

50756F2E-4FC5-47A2-944B-96B2BA116907.jpeg

 

41F14766-620F-4ADA-B225-A3DC3FE8E54C.jpeg

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Also, at the other TDC mark the rockers are super tight, no play. I’m assuming this is exhaust stroke?

 

 

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At a loss here. Start the ATV it fires up. But the idle is all over the place. If I tap the throttle I either feel like I have to power or the idle jumps to like 3800 and stays there. 
 

The engine just isnt running. No clue what’s going on now as I did t touch anything else. 

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On 1/18/2021 at 6:31 PM, freebo86 said:

At a loss here. Start the ATV it fires up. But the idle is all over the place. If I tap the throttle I either feel like I have to power or the idle jumps to like 3800 and stays there. 
 

The engine just isnt running. No clue what’s going on now as I did t touch anything else. 

 

Sounds like a vacuum leak from the last description.

Check the boot between carb and intake. Also the carb again... is something sticking? Choke?

 

On your valves,

Personally I have had issues getting them quiet using feeler gauges and feeling tends to work better for me.

When you wiggle the valve it should move but not hammer. Hard to describe...

Maybe give setting them by eye/feeling a try and see if they quiet down.

 

The starting when cold but not hot deal could be valve too tight related.

Choke being stuck would also cause that symptom.

 

Edit: Saw the other thread... already on it 🙂

Edited by oh400ex

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Well to provide an update on this thread. As most have read, I tried to pinpoint this noise, ended up cleaning and redoing the carb twice maybe three times even. Got it starting good now and runs good, tick/chatter whatever we want to call it occurs after engine warms up (more on this later). 
 

Took the Cherry Bomb (ATVs Name) out Friday night for a test with the carb and see how it runs.. well few hours into it.. gear indicator flashing etc.. more can be read in the actual thread - but Electric Shifter motor grenaded itself.

 

While I wait for the replacement electric shift motor that’s @Fishfiles was kind enough to donate. I decided to remove the rear seat and box and clean up the plastic and bring some color back. 
 

First two photos were before I started. Then after sanding, started with #600, 1000, 1500 and then 2000.

 

going to hit it with my DA and Compound, Polish and see what can be done. Last photos the plastic is still wet.

 

 

 

 

 

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This is what I started with tonight after it had dried. There is some imperfections in the plastic that I would have to sand till I’m blue in the face but I started with the rear to see how it goes since 75% of this is covered by the back seat anyways. 
 



 

After applying Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish a lot of the scratches disappeared but, topped it with Wax at end it and it looks alright. Better than before. The plastic is absorbing the wax so the shine is not there. Need something to make it shine!
 

Thinking of topping this off with linseed oil and paint thinner? Thoughts? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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It looks like that fender needs some more super-fine wet-sanding and another buffing/polishing to follow. Once all of the sanding scratches are gone you can make that fender look better than new though!

 

I like to use a Wipe-New Recolor kit to bring out a deep, clear coat shine on ATV plastics and provide long term protection from the sun. You can buy the Wipe-New Recolor kits at Walmart or online at Amazon, eBay, Home Depot, etc. Each kit comes with 3 microfiber applicator wipes, nitrile gloves and a 2 ounce bottle of product. You just wipe down your plastics thoroughly with Acetone to remove all wax, grease & dirt, then wipe on a single wet coat of product and let your plastics dry for 24 hours in a warm place where there is no moisture or sunshine. It's really easy to use and one kit is enough to coat all of the plastics on any ATV.

 

I coated my Rancher 3 seasons ago and it still looks as good as the day that I completed it. I'm sure you'd like the deep shine ya get from it!

 

rancher-spring-2020.png

 

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I saw that thread of yours in the rancher, nice work, machine looks superb. 
 

And just as expected the plastic absorbed the wax overnight so the plastic is still somewhat dull. Will do another pass of wet sanding and then try that recolour. Ever use linseed oil and paint thinner?

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Have some free time this weekend so work continued on cleaning. The black flares I’ll address at another time. 
 

Went back and sanded the rear some more. Think it turned out better then expected afterwards. Also tackled the side plastic, these were actually in a decent condition so the sanding didn’t have to be as vigorous. 

 

Oh and the bike received new decals. As the PO decided to de-badge the entire thing. 
 

On today’s schedule is the front portion. She’s rough looking. Rack painting is in the spring, unless I can get myself to get the garage up to temperature and cover everything and spray inside. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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@Wheeler what you got to say about this idea

 

quote freebo86  " unless I can get myself to get the garage up to temperature and cover everything and spray inside." 

 

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Yup, this spring I may have to try the Wipe New if I’m not happy with the polish I did...

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23 minutes ago, Wheeler said:

Yup, this spring I may have to try the Wipe New if I’m not happy with the polish I did...

Does  that Wipe New have any vapors , can you do it in a heated enclosed space in the dead of winter ? ....  

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If I spray in the garage I wear a 3M mask. Lol I’ve learned my lessons..also that shine I didn’t use WipeNew that stuff seems to have been discontinued in Canada.. or at least around me. 

 

Can someone tell me, for the pilot screw turning it IN vs. OUT, which one increases fuel? Ie. richens the mixture?

 

Pulled the plug from the last trip (the one where shift motor crapped out) this is how the plug looks. Appears a bit too white, so I’d say too lean? 
 

4F83163A-2E1A-4943-A0F3-BE29857A4DDC.jpeg

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