04 Foreman 450ES - Clean up, Repair, Maintenance & Enjoy

[freebo86 291]

14 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

 zmbe-039-c3 doesn't come up on  searches  ------ 

You got a few letters backwards there, it says; ZWBE-029-C3

[retro 4,048]

The -C3 on the end of the part number denotes the clearance specification. C3 means that the bearing is clearanced as loose as possible which means that the bearing is cheaply made and is two spec numbers looser than the Honda bearing specification. Basically what I am sayin' is, THOSE ARE CHINA GARBAGE.

[Fishfiles 20,145]

28 minutes ago, freebo86 said:

You got a few letters backwards there, it says; ZWBE-029-C3

I wrote it wrong ,  but searched it right , comes up as the University of Buffalo, LOL 

[jeepwm69 7,599]

Maybe the ones I got, that were actually All Balls bearings, were done during the transition from the old Pivotworks to the new chinese pivotworks.

 

But Retro's bearing knowledge is what you need to know.  Send them back, order OEM Honda bearings.

 

If you go to the big bearing store, you can choose Koyo bearings in most common sizes.  Koyo is what Honda normally uses.  I've found that OEM Honda bearings are usually as cheap or cheaper from RMATV than Koyo bearings from bearing supply houses.

[freebo86 291]

Send those pivotworks bearings back. 
 

Well can someone point me in the direction how my to wire the FAN to work on a switch? I would like to keep the wiring to a minimum. My FCU is kaput I don’t feel like baking it in the oven every 2 weeks. It works intermittently on the dash that the little red light comes on during key ON. 
 

If I wire it to a switch does the FCU remain or do I have to remove it from the bike? Can someone  help out?

Edited May 24, 2021 by freebo86

[shadetree 5,877]

33 minutes ago, freebo86 said:

Send those pivotworks bearings back. 
 

Well can someone point me in the direction how my to wire the FAN to work on a switch? I would like to keep the wiring to a minimum. My FCU is kaput I don’t feel like baking it in the oven every 2 weeks. It works intermittently on the dash that the little red light comes on during key ON. 
 

If I wire it to a switch does the FCU remain or do I have to remove it from the bike? Can someone  help out?

wiring the fan to come with a switch is easy, but the oil temp light will always stay on , this is because of the oil temp sensor.

[freebo86 291]

9 minutes ago, shadetree said:

wiring the fan to come with a switch is easy, but the oil temp light will always stay on , this is because of the oil temp sensor.

Gotcha. So is it as easy as putting a switch inline with the two wires that are near the fuel tank that run to the fan?

 

When switch is flipped you ground those and the fan comes on demand, leaving the switch in the off position basically retains the FCU operation to trigger it like OEM? That’s when FCU works.. 

Edited May 25, 2021 by freebo86

[shadetree 5,877]

8 hours ago, freebo86 said:

Gotcha. So is it as easy as putting a switch inline with the two wires that are near the fuel tank that run to the fan?

 

When switch is flipped you ground those and the fan comes on demand, leaving the switch in the off position basically retains the FCU operation to trigger it like OEM? That’s when FCU works.. 

the way most folks do it, they run power from a power source, install an inline switch between it and the fan motor. myself ?, i leave everything stock. why are you wanting to install a fan switch ?, most times when the fan does not come on, its because of the oil temp sensor switch. when these sensor switches work right, they tell the fan to kick on.

[freebo86 291]

38 minutes ago, shadetree said:

the way most folks do it, they run power from a power source, install an inline switch between it and the fan motor. myself ?, i leave everything stock. why are you wanting to install a fan switch ?, most times when the fan does not come on, its because of the oil temp sensor switch. when these sensor switches work right, they tell the fan to kick on.

My oil temp sensor is brand new, OEM. It’s the FCU controller that’s actually toast. The unit sometimes flashed the light briefly when I turn the key, other times it doesn’t. If I bake the controller in the oven then the controller works fine. 
 

K don’t follow your wiring idea. So where do you tie the other end of the switch? 
 

 

[freebo86 291]

4 hours ago, shadetree said:

the way most folks do it, they run power from a power source, install an inline switch between it and the fan motor. myself ?, i leave everything stock. why are you wanting to install a fan switch ?, most times when the fan does not come on, its because of the oil temp sensor switch. when these sensor switches work right, they tell the fan to kick on.

 

Why would you run power to the switch? Can't you simply ground the blue wiring using a switch? Kind of like the service manual indicates to test the fan operation?

[shadetree 5,877]

49 minutes ago, freebo86 said:

 

Why would you run power to the switch? Can't you simply ground the blue wiring using a switch? Kind of like the service manual indicates to test the fan operation?

you could, but why not just stay around the fan for power ?.

[freebo86 291]

10 minutes ago, shadetree said:

you could, but why not just stay around the fan for power ?.

 

Sorry, not following you? stay around what fan power?

 

https://www.hondaforeman.com/threads/manual-fan-switch.65456/

Edited May 25, 2021 by freebo86

[shadetree 5,877]

16 minutes ago, freebo86 said:

 

Sorry, not following you? stay around what fan power?

 

https://www.hondaforeman.com/threads/manual-fan-switch.65456/

a keyed power source, as in, when you turn the key on, you have 12 volts, this would be rigged inline to fan to turn it on and off. 

[shadetree 5,877]

5 hours ago, freebo86 said:

My oil temp sensor is brand new, OEM. It’s the FCU controller that’s actually toast. The unit sometimes flashed the light briefly when I turn the key, other times it doesn’t. If I bake the controller in the oven then the controller works fine. 
 

K don’t follow your wiring idea. So where do you tie the other end of the switch? 
 

 

myself, i would just buy a new fan control unit, be done with it, i don't like '' hacking '' into my wire harness unless i am tapping into a hot lead to wire a mini rocker switch to operate a winch.

[freebo86 291]

 

4 minutes ago, shadetree said:

a keyed power source, as in, when you turn the key on, you have 12 volts, this would be rigged inline to fan to turn it on and off. 

 

Just now, shadetree said:

myself, i would just buy a new fan control unit, be done with it, i don't like '' hacking '' into my wire harness unless i am tapping into a hot lead to wire a mini rocker switch to operate a winch.

 

Gotcha. But taping into the blue wire lead, it would still be keyed and only function if bike is on. Because grounding the blue wire out the fan wont run unless you have key ON?

 

[jeepwm69 7,599]

You have a green wire (ground) and a blue wire (hot) on the fan.  On my 500's the temp sensor grounds when it reaches a certain temperature, cutting on the fan, so the hot wire is always hot on the fan, and the ground wire grounds to turn the fan on.

 

So you would wire a switch into the ground wire, with one side going to fan, and the other going to ground somewhere.  That should allow you to shut it on and off manually.

 

Before you do that, let one of the electrical gurus (Retro, Melatv) come along and verify.  I'm pretty much a hack when it comes to electrical stuff.  I can usually get it to work , but it might not be right LOL

[freebo86 291]

5 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

You have a green wire (ground) and a blue wire (hot) on the fan.  On my 500's the temp sensor grounds when it reaches a certain temperature, cutting on the fan, so the hot wire is always hot on the fan, and the ground wire grounds to turn the fan on.

 

So you would wire a switch into the ground wire, with one side going to fan, and the other going to ground somewhere.  That should allow you to shut it on and off manually.

 

Before you do that, let one of the electrical gurus (Retro, Melatv) come along and verify.  I'm pretty much a hack when it comes to electrical stuff.  I can usually get it to work , but it might not be right LOL

 

That was my intended idea and understanding of it. I wouldn't cut into the existing wiring either I would just simply put a switch inline and add those barrel connectors and potentially the switch could be removed from the equation in the future with the exception of where the switch gets mounted and a hole drilled, lol. @retro

[freebo86 291]

5 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

You have a green wire (ground) and a blue wire (hot) on the fan.  On my 500's the temp sensor grounds when it reaches a certain temperature, cutting on the fan, so the hot wire is always hot on the fan, and the ground wire grounds to turn the fan on.

 

So you would wire a switch into the ground wire, with one side going to fan, and the other going to ground somewhere.  That should allow you to shut it on and off manually.

 

Before you do that, let one of the electrical gurus (Retro, Melatv) come along and verify.  I'm pretty much a hack when it comes to electrical stuff.  I can usually get it to work , but it might not be right LOL

 

That was my intended idea and understanding of it. I wouldn't cut into the existing wiring either I would just simply put a switch inline and add those barrel connectors and potentially the switch could be removed from the equation in the future with the exception of where the switch gets mounted and a hole drilled, lol. @retro or @Melatv thoughts?

[retro 4,048]

1 hour ago, freebo86 said:

That was my intended idea and understanding of it. I wouldn't cut into the existing wiring either I would just simply put a switch inline and add those barrel connectors and potentially the switch could be removed from the equation in the future with the exception of where the switch gets mounted and a hole drilled, lol

 

Yup, you and Jeep are doing it the most straightforward and logical way. The FCU kicks the fan on and off by switching the negative ground leg for the fan motor. The positive supply is fused and switched by the ignition, so its best to leave that leg alone. Just run a negative ground through a switch to the negative leg on the fan motor and you're done.

 

Personally, I would not drill a hole in the plastics to mount a fan motor toggle switch either, I would clamp a switch bracket to the bars temporarily. Someday you'll want to fix that fan up right.... either with a stock FCU, or one of the programmable FCU gizmos that are in development.

 

[freebo86 291]

Sealed up the airbox joints and decided may as well put a new filter in it. 
 

Top lid o used like a electric grease filled the void and then put the cover on. 

I don’t intent to go into water to that level but it never hurts. 
 

Also scored a OEM FCU from a 02 450 for dirt cheap that actually works! So that’s installed also. 

 

[freebo86 291]

Can someone tell me what the purpose of the O-Ring is that’s under the valve cover where the oil delivery happens from down below up into the head?

 

Trying to understand why is there a o-ring there, isnt the whole point to deliver oil up into the head so what is the o-ring sealing?

 

[retro 4,048]

Flip the valve cover over and you'll see oiling dripper holes centered over each of the valve stem tips. The o-ring seals the oiler supply galley to the valve cover so oil is provided to the drippers which lubricates the rocker arms & valve stems.

[freebo86 291]

12 hours ago, retro said:

Flip the valve cover over and you'll see oiling dripper holes centered over each of the valve stem tips. The o-ring seals the oiler supply galley to the valve cover so oil is provided to the drippers which lubricates the rocker arms & valve stems.

So with a bad o ring what occurs? The rocker arms don’t get the oil they need? You burn up the oil down the valve seals?

Edited June 13, 2021 by freebo86

[retro 4,048]

Yeah, drippers lube the Rocker arms where they contact the valve stem tips and/or the rocker arms pushrod cups and/or the rocker arm shaft & bearing/bushing, to minimize friction and wear and maximize cooling, depending on the design of the motor. So using your example of a leaky o-ring seal between the supply galley to the valve cover drippers, all moving parts that depend on that oil for lubrication and cooling will suffer and soon fail.

[freebo86 291]

The 450 runs like a top these days. Really dialed in! Putting some serious mileage on it. 
 

Noticed one of the inner axle boots is starting to show stretch marks and the rubber is deteriorating. Can someone tell me what grease can I put in these when the boots replace? Reason I ask is I have a boot on hand already and wondering if odd the shelf grease can be put in?

 

Noticed my rear brake plate the JB weld is coming off so I’m going to have to source a good used one to replace.