Fishfiles 20,145 Posted January 7, 2021 the outer race is still in the bore , so you slice it ( cut it with the torch ) in two places across from one another , like 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock , then you are left with two pieces left , that are not connected to one another , those pieces are easy knocked right out --------I looked for a video on you tube , but have not found one yet 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted January 7, 2021 1 hour ago, _Wilson_™ said: that works ^^^^ good, done it many times myself on defrent ball bearings Why don't you try to explain to Freebo how to "slice" the race out of a bore hole , I got a bad headache today 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freebo86 291 Posted January 7, 2021 15 minutes ago, Fishfiles said: the outer race is still in the bore , so you slice it ( cut it with the torch ) in two places across from one another , like 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock , then you are left with two pieces left , that are not connected to one another , those pieces are easy knocked right out --------I looked for a video on you tube , but have not found one yet 10-4! Got it now! Hopefully I can get into the garage tonight and provide some more photos and progress. Stay tuned, if you guys care! 😄 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,563 Posted January 7, 2021 (edited) you nailed it! fish. what fish is talking about is melting the race in the bore, (cutting it just as he said!) opposite sides of the race, then it will just fall out, but it takes time to learn this skill, you can also do the inner race (on some machines) i also looked for a video, but no Luck. just a note, if you try this ... what remaining grease, will cause seeing issues as it burns away. i located one video, but the mechanic just blew out the balls, and stopped recording.... but this pic should explain what he's talking about even tho the is the inner roller bearing race. , must be catching fish, i got one bad headache myself..... sigh. Edited January 7, 2021 by _Wilson_™ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freebo86 291 Posted January 8, 2021 Guys, I’m defeated. This thing isn’t moving. I got my poor man oxy torch.. don’t think I know how to use it. I had that thing glowing red.. and it’s not coming out or apart. what do I do? I cut part of it with my dremel and still can’t collapse that inner hole to get it and the balls out to work on the outter... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,563 Posted January 8, 2021 and you had the tanks filled (plenty of gas) ? try this get some scrap metal, to practice on and fine tune the mixture, what are the gauges reading ? tank gauges, and regulator gauges ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,563 Posted January 8, 2021 (edited) youll need to grind each side of the inner race keep grinding till you cut the bearing cage, then just take a punch and knock the two halves of the race out along with balls, then we tackle the outer race. Edited January 8, 2021 by _Wilson_™ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freebo86 291 Posted January 8, 2021 Well luck was on my side. After posting that, I somehow got a good angle and solid blow on it with the hammer and destroyed the inner cage and balls. After that I used some heat, and a 1” socket and the outter race popped out of the bore. Started reinstalling some stuff. The steering and column feel rock solid now! Wow. I will have to wait a few days for one of the propeller seals to come in before I can reinstall the diff. But in the mean time I will tackle the lower shock bushing, di-electric grease all the connectors that I have clear access to and install the Lift Kit on the front until it’s all buttoned up and I can get to the back. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,563 Posted January 8, 2021 (edited) good deal! freebo, thanks for the update, now you know what works on those pita steering stem bearings, i see you did the upper rubber bushing to, good call IMO. don't forget the snap ring. Edited January 8, 2021 by _Wilson_™ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freebo86 291 Posted January 8, 2021 1 minute ago, _Wilson_™ said: good deal! freebo, thanks for the update, now you know what works on those pita steering stem bearings, i see you did the upper rubber bushing to, good call IMO. It’s actually the old one. I inspected it and it was fine surpassingly. I cleaned it up and applied grease to it liberally. Steering is almost like power steering lol! More updates in the coming days! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted January 8, 2021 Freebo', l am glad you got by that steering bearing , that can a rough job Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted January 8, 2021 Congrats on getting that bugger outta there! I gotta ask ya though.... why does the new bearing have blue dust seals on it? Is that an All Balls bearing kit? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freebo86 291 Posted January 8, 2021 3 minutes ago, retro said: Congrats on getting that bugger outta there! I gotta ask ya though.... why does the new bearing have blue dust seals on it? Is that an All Balls bearing kit? yes it is. I searched the bearing number locally and it looked the same (blue shields) even tho it wasn’t a All Balls. I did remove the seals and add grease (surprisingly this one wasn’t that low packed to begin with). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freebo86 291 Posted January 10, 2021 Made some further progress last night. Question, I have to wait on one of the seals for the front prop/driveshaft the dealer didn’t have it in stock. To reinstall this unit, does it go in front then the differtnetial or can the differential be slid back in, axles etc. and then install the prop shaft? Just looking to make headway while I wait. As well, how do the seals actually install on the prop shaft? Do they push against something? I pulled the old boots off to clean up the old dried up grease etc. but can’t see how the original seals were even installed. In other news. Pulled the front connectors off and di-electrfied greased them up. Installed the front lift brackets. Since I will be installing a light bar. The battery compartment is getting crowded and tight I decided to relocate the winch solenoid to the rear box. Re-routed the cable against the frame rails. The light came with its own wiring harness and switch, the switch portion I won’t be using as I’ll tap into the high beam as my switch/trigger wire. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted January 10, 2021 4 hours ago, freebo86 said: To reinstall this unit, does it go in front then the differtnetial or can the differential be slid back in, axles etc. and then install the prop shaft? Just looking to make headway while I wait. The driveshaft can be installed with the front diff bolted in but its a tight fit. Ya gotta stab the shaft perfectly straight (against spring pressure), else ya turn the cup seal inside out like the factory did.... may as well spare yourself a potential struggle since ya got the diff out already. 4 hours ago, freebo86 said: As well, how do the seals actually install on the prop shaft? Do they push against something? I pulled the old boots off to clean up the old dried up grease etc. but can’t see how the original seals were even installed. The seal slides over the splines and grips on the shaft. The lip on the cup seal faces out toward the front diff. If you take the shaft and insert the end of it into the diff you can see how that cup seal fits and why it is there. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freebo86 291 Posted January 10, 2021 6 minutes ago, retro said: The driveshaft can be installed with the front diff bolted in but its a tight fit. Ya gotta stab the shaft perfectly straight (against spring pressure), else ya turn the cup seal inside out like the factory did.... may as well spare yourself a potential struggle since ya got the diff out already. The seal slides over the splines and grips on the shaft. The lip on the cup seal faces out toward the front diff. If you take the shaft and insert the end of it into the diff you can see how that cup seal fits and why it is there. Yah, think I'll wait till have I have the other seal in hand before I reinstall the diff. So for both seals, the ones closer to the diff and the one towards the engine - both face the differential with their cups opening? The ones I am talking about are #47 and #48. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted January 10, 2021 The cup seals, # 47 & #48 have lips that face both directions on a 450 so they probably can't be installed backwards. 🙂 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freebo86 291 Posted January 11, 2021 So wrapped up the LED lightbar tonight, also installed the Heat Deamon Grips wife got me. Can someone tell me what these wires are for? These were tucked away behind the steering head lamp. What’s odd enough, the front brake lever has a 2 contact style switch (similar to what the rear brake lever has). But I also recall, in the rear by my regulator there is these two cables barrels that were never attached to anything. Anyone have a sweet idea what the front to cable connectors are for? Also same for the rear. Also, the PO converted the front brakes to Discs.. if that matters. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted January 11, 2021 The two wires that ya found behind the pod headlight plug into the switch (brake lights) on the front brake master cylinder. The two wires that ya found near the battery are accessory power & ground, which were provided for optional accessories. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freebo86 291 Posted January 11, 2021 8 minutes ago, retro said: The two wires that ya found behind the pod headlight plug into the switch (brake lights) on the front brake master cylinder. The two wires that ya found near the battery are accessory power & ground, which were provided for optional accessories. For brake lights? My unit doesnt have active brakes lights, ie. they do not go indicate I press/pull the brake. I just have the 2 stationary rectangle lights at the rear that that come on when my Lights are on to indicate position. So are you saying this ATV should have an actual brake light? If so, where exactly is this brake light wired to at the rear I didn't see any wiring back there for that. The accessory wiring at the back is nice, I may utilize that for hand warmers on the 2up seat. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,600 Posted January 11, 2021 What year is this thing again? The newer machines have two micro switches on the brake M/C. One is for the brake lights and the other for the "start in gear" feature. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,563 Posted January 11, 2021 (edited) 04 450, es, and I'm not seeing a micro switch on the hand brake, or the foot brake. Edited January 11, 2021 by _Wilson_™ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted January 11, 2021 Yup, I just looked at the wiring diagram for the '04 TRX450FE and I do not see any provision for brake lights. Not on a USA model anyway.... So it looks like the master cylinder was swapped from another model with the switch sub-harness included. Follow that switch sub-harness to its end and see if it is connected to anything...? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freebo86 291 Posted January 11, 2021 18 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said: What year is this thing again? The newer machines have two micro switches on the brake M/C. One is for the brake lights and the other for the "start in gear" feature. 04 450. 16 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said: 04 450, and I'm not seeing a micro switch on the hand brake, or the foot brake. This is what I am referring to. This picture is the front brake lever, it's not connected I assume the two cables in the headlamp housing go here since they match the same style as what's on the other lever for the rear brake. It has the two connections on it, they are behind a rubber boot. What is the foot brake switch your referring too? Because I think I may have this as well I've been wondering what is is and thought it's something to do with the reverse trigger? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
