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freebo86

04 Foreman 450ES - Clean up, Repair, Maintenance & Enjoy

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Pilot screw, turn out more fuel, turn in less fuel.  I'm not an authority by any stretch but if fuel is too rich the plug will be black and maybe even wet.  So I would say it looks kinda lean....

 

I'm sure somewhere you have been told on the 450 the pilot screw standard setting is 2 5/8 turns out.

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Yeah, black would be rich. Does look a little lean. Shooting for golden brown, like a grilled cheese sandwich 

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1 hour ago, bcsman said:

Pilot screw, turn out more fuel, turn in less fuel.  I'm not an authority by any stretch but if fuel is too rich the plug will be black and maybe even wet.  So I would say it looks kinda lean....

 

I'm sure somewhere you have been told on the 450 the pilot screw standard setting is 2 5/8 turns out.


Yah and I was. I’ll have to check but I think I’m turned out more than 2-5/8s right now.. 

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50 minutes ago, freebo86 said:


Yah and I was. I’ll have to check but I think I’m turned out more than 2-5/8s right now.. 

Well it's not a sure thing for every 450 but a good place to start from.  Some may need a little more or less for optimum running, all a matter of trial and error.

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Well wanted to finish off the front end. Spend a fair bit of time sanding and working my way up as I figured the front section is the one that’s mostly visible. Went down as far as #220,600 and so on till I hit 2000. Then compound and polish. The front is not shining up red like the rest of the ATV but hopefully after a few more buffs it comes out.. 

 

Once it’s all said and done, will wipe down with my ceramic coating spray this should keep the water and mud sliding off easier.. 

 

Up around the handlebar light is where the scratches are still visible, I know that will bother me.. 

 

Did a slight pass on the flares to get the color to pop out. The foot wells will need cleaning and I do need a new left side footwell as mine has a few cracks in it. 

 


 

 

 

 

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Now that things have settled a bit and the machine may be running half decent time to continue this thread. 
 

While all the repairs were undergoing and I was waiting on parts. I ended up installed a 3rd Brake light. The machine was all pre-wired for it, the PO had removed the light I guess but the switches, wires and all was in place. 
 

 

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just asking but did you ever tackle the rear brake backing plate ? i had forgot to ask about that, but have been meaning to, or is it holding for now ? 

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9 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

just asking but did you ever tackle the rear brake backing plate ? i had forgot to ask about that, but have been meaning to, or is it holding for now ? 

 

Thats a good memory. The one I "fixed" has held up for the past 500 or so miles. Brake works too lol.

 

But I am still on the hunt for one locally.

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thank you, good deal most times those rear drum brakes don't work all that good, that's one of  short comings on the 300, those dang rear drum brakes, lol. what got to thinking about was the brake light, i see you went with an led setup, i like it, can't figure why the PO took the ome off, but you've sure come along ways with this bike, keep up the repairs. 

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So I noticed the brakes on the front felt a bit spongy, so my curious self decided to open the master cylinder and see what’s going on and inspect the brakes. Well the front brakes are shot, the PO installed Disc Brakes upfront (Quadrax). The master cylinder fluid looked fairly dark and looked dirty. In the process of trying to loosen the two Phillips screws at the top I stripped one to the point it had to be drilled out to remove the cover, the other I managed to pull out barely. 
 

Got new pads off Amazon, we’ll see how long they last. The fluid I sucked up from the cylinder and cleaned it out, then filled with new DOT3 and pumped and bled the brakes till new fluid came out. Handle now feels much firmer and grabs right away. 
 

Old pads, basically none left..


The “guide pin” if we can call it that... 

 

 

Cleaned up well, applied a bit of grease over it also. 
 

 

 

For the screws I went to Home Depot, they didn’t have M4x.70 pitch in my store. Closest I found was 8x32. I grabbed a couple of those in stainless steel. Got home and used my Tap&Die set and cut the screws to a M4x.70 pitch to fit into the master cylinder. The 8x32 are just a bit thicker so there is some ‘meat’ on them to allow you to cut them to the M4 thread type. 
 


 

At this point the machine has new fluids all around. 

 

I got another update as I’m in the process of painting something I build for the ATV. We’ll see what you guys say. 

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So since I got the ATV I’ve spent a fair bit of time underneath it.. and I found it odd that the skid plate ended short before the shift motor and that the front portion wasnt really protected. After closer inspection I realized that it appeared that the skid plate wasnt quite complete and he broke part of it off. 
 

The two front mounts were ripped off (nuts gone), the OEM plate was held on by the 3 rear most bolts. 
 

So out came the grinder and some 16 gauge metal.
 

Once I get my gas back for my welder I plan on trying to reweld the two broken nuts on. For the time being this thing is held at the very front mounts and I welded on some side tabs that bolt onto where the footwell rails go. For the rear this thing slides above the OEM plate by about 2-3”. I drilled the two holes out in anticipation for when I fix the OEM mount location. 
 

The other random hole in the front end is for front diff drain. 
 

Excuse my make shift paint both. primer drying before we hit it with black. 
 

 

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Well next thing on the list that is clean out the fan motor. Going to dismantle it to whatever level it can be and clean, grease and seal it.

 

Should of done this when I had the oil cooler out but I'm hoping this fan can come out without the removal of the top plastics but just the little black side piece.

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Those fan motors are not meant to be serviceable, but I drill a tiny hole in the end of the motor housing centered over the armature shaft (you can see the bump in the tin where the shaft is centered by the bushing, drill right there) then pump a tiny bit of synthetic grease into that rear bushing. After it is greased I clean up around the drilled hole with alcohol and glue the hole shut. Step two: behind the fan blade there is a rubber lipped seal around the shaft. You can use a thin syringe & needle to carefully slide a needle in between that rubber seal & the shaft and squirt a couple drops of syn oil into that front bushing.

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1 minute ago, retro said:

Those fan motors are not meant to be serviceable, but I drill a tiny hole in the end of the motor housing centered over the armature shaft (you can see the bump in the tin where the shaft is centered by the bushing, drill right there) then pump a tiny bit of synthetic grease into that rear bushing. After it is greased I clean up around the drilled hole with alcohol and glue the hole shut. Step two: behind the fan blade there is a rubber lipped seal around the shaft. You can use a thin syringe & needle to carefully slide a needle in between that rubber seal & the shaft and squirt a couple drops of syn oil into that front bushing.

 

Interesting. I thought I saw a exploded view of it on the service manual?

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Yeah probably.... the fan blade usually pulls off pretty easily after you get the nut & washer off of the shaft. Most of your time will be spent taking the fan motor out of the bike to work on it.

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14 minutes ago, retro said:

Yeah probably.... the fan blade usually pulls off pretty easily after you get the nut & washer off of the shaft. Most of your time will be spent taking the fan motor out of the bike to work on it.

 

Is it worth the hassle you think? My fan spins by hand but its not like it keeps spinning forever once I push it, know what I mean?

 

I still need to tackle your suggestion for the air cut of valve to see the whole carb issue still 🙂

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Is it worth your time to lube them? Of course! Have you seen the cost for a new one yet?

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11 minutes ago, retro said:

Is it worth your time to lube them? Of course! Have you seen the cost for a new one yet?

 

No but I can imagine and I've already had the Honda OEM treatment on a few components as I am sure you are aware.

 

Another question I have.

Do mufflers from 300/350/400 machines fit the 450? My unit is somewhat gutted due to broken baffles. If I can source a decent unit off another machine I'd consider it as long as it fits. As all my research points to sticking to OEM for the muffler.

 

 

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None of them fit without swapping the brackets over as far as I know.

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5 minutes ago, freebo86 said:

 

No but I can imagine and I've already had the Honda OEM treatment on a few components as I am sure you are aware.

 

Another question I have.

Do mufflers from 300/350/400 machines fit the 450? My unit is somewhat gutted due to broken baffles. If I can source a decent unit off another machine I'd consider it as long as it fits. As all my research points to sticking to OEM for the muffler.

 

 

 

Mufflers are one of those "holy crap" parts when you price new OEM.

 

Buying used will probably get you a slightly less worn out part.

 

I think when things get to the point where I have to buy a muffler and a new one is $300-400, I"ll find a cheap tractor muffler and have it welded onto the factory pipe.

 

A lot of guys use the F04 muffler from Tractor Supply on the old 300's.  I don't like how loud they are, but I'd probably do that before I'd spend $400 on a new one.

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54 minutes ago, retro said:

Yup, USD$1100 for a new 450 muffler!

 

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/18310-HN0-670


yah, no thank you. Well if it’s just the mounts that are off that’s a easy fix. I can weld. I’m almost half tempted to cut mine open again and redo the baffles.. just I’m not expert when it comes to size, spacing etc. 

 

57 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

Mufflers are one of those "holy crap" parts when you price new OEM.

 

Buying used will probably get you a slightly less worn out part.

 

I think when things get to the point where I have to buy a muffler and a new one is $300-400, I"ll find a cheap tractor muffler and have it welded onto the factory pipe.

 

A lot of guys use the F04 muffler from Tractor Supply on the old 300's.  I don't like how loud they are, but I'd probably do that before I'd spend $400 on a new one.


Yah I’m trying to go as quiet as possible. 

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16 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

That's still crazy pricey. 

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