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Goober

QA03A 86-89 TRX350 carb

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plugs measure
0.16 inch 4.0 mm at tip

0.175 inch 4.45 mm at midbody

0.24 inch 6.1 mm base

0.33 inch 8.38 mm overall length

 

I ordered a set of passage plugs for a Gold Wing —even tho the base is about 2 mm shorter I’m sure they’ll work.

898C3777-881C-4CD7-8FEC-FA1252416B02.jpeg

Edited by Goober
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Got them all done.

just need new passage plugs in two of them. Will tune them on one machine for now, using clean spark plugs.

that one bowl has a very rough surface; like it was never polished

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4124765F-5C3C-4665-BD4B-C2FEB599707E.jpeg

059F10C9-E1D2-4DEF-BDAC-8B5B5ED52190.jpeg

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I’m going to try Honda part number

16010-371-004
K & L #18-4688

specified for 75-79 Honda GL-1000

 

these might also fit TRX300A and FW carbs—they should be same size.

Edited by Goober
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On 3/1/2021 at 9:41 PM, Goober said:

I’m going to try Honda part number

16010-371-004
K & L #18-4688

specified for 75-79 Honda GL-1000

 

these might also fit TRX300A and FW carbs—they should be same size.

as long as the inside diameter of the plug fills the plug hole ?, any plug will work. it wont matter about what sticks above the hole too much, the bowl does help press the plug down, but if the inside is tight ?, and seals ?, it will work. i do not know why these carbs even have these plugs to start with ?, other than cleaning the passage out ?, they could have made them sealed to begin with. 

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Those plugs fit perfectly. You’re right Shadetree they fit flush to the base of the passage. Snug and good for another 35 years.

i tried a #138 in the first test carb and I can’t get it tuned—i need to check the intake base and cam chain. My fuel feed line is kinda tight and pulling  the carb back a bit.

A199BE10-4CBC-41BA-B9A6-7BB17AF240C2.jpeg

Edited by Goober
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I have been troubleshooting the tuning on this carb and have narrowed it to a couple of things. 

 

first the plug was fouling pretty quickly. I know the pilot jet is good but has anyone ever heard of the standard tuning setting (1.5 turns out) being too rich? 

secondly the tuning varies with me pushing on the carb. The fuel line was hung up and when i freed it, i got the carb to seat on the insulator. but it still stumbles when i push on the carb. I think the insulator oring is bad. 

B46C05B3-4B8A-47F0-8D12-08110064DC75.jpeg

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Did you kit the carb or all original? For both where is the clip on the throttle needle set? I glanced through the posts but might have missed it First thing I would try is lowering the throttle needle

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2 hours ago, Goober said:

I think the insulator oring is bad.

 

Thats my guess too. Also check that boot over good for a crack in the rubber opening up where the rubber is over-molded onto the backer plate.

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10 hours ago, toodeep said:

Did you kit the carb or all original? For both where is the clip on the throttle needle set? I glanced through the posts but might have missed it First thing I would try is lowering the throttle needle

I installed a Shindy kit and new OEM choke valve—set everything according to the manual.  One exception. I used a #138 main jet instead of stock #142. I have been having plug fouling on it and thot I would try leaning it a bit—we are at 3100’ ASL.
I ordered some new gaskets and will inspect the insulators for cracks. Already seems like the rubber boot is worn but maybe that’s the insulator rocking.

Since I’ll be taking the carb off, I’m putting the stock jet back in—too many variables with this oldie. I need to check cam chain wear. These were bought in 1987 and have hour meters—this one showing 850? hours.  

Edited by Goober
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When yall put Shindy kits in, are you usually using the jets, or reusing the factory jets?

 

I've always put the factory jets back in, but since Shindy is usually good to go, I wonder if I should avoid using those nice shiny new jets 

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I use the Shindy jets but I usually keep all the old jets and undamaged bits in a spares bag. Usually the bit portion is worn but the jet would be usable if i lost one. Sometimes the starter jets will crack when removing so I only have a couple. 

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