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Jemmons467

Replacing oil seal behind control motor

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Accidentally posted in wrong forum earlier. But here it is.

 

I have a 2000 Foreman 450 es and like they seem to do, its not shifting. I did some trouble shooting and realized the angle sensor was full of oil.

There was no grease at all where the reduction gears are just oil. So I think I've narrowed it down to the oil seal on the gear shift spindle for the angle sensor is leaking and it is pushing oil into the sensor, shorting it and not shifting.
Now my question, how hard is that seal to change? I need to take a better look at it but I belive thats what is going on. I would appreciate any help. I've owned this fourwheeler for a few months and have had nothing but shifting issues.
I also screwed up and pulled the control motor all the way put and am now having a hard time getting the brushes and springs to stay in place while I put it back together, so any pointers with that would also be great.

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I deleted your first post in the questions and answers so we dont have double threads...

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Welcome to the forum .... I am not an ES guy , @retro is the Guru of them , but have read about them , don't know if this paragraph will help you or not :

 

Using alligator clips to hold the brushes is a great help,however when putting the housing on it'll suck the armature right out!! After about 3 times of this happening ,,I GENTLY applied vise grips to the gear on the end of the armature to hold it into the brush housing,,BINGO ! Slid the housing over the armature and got the bolts in.

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I don't have a 450 ES , I have 450 foot shifter , but looking at this finche , #30 looks like the oil seal , I would drill or punch a hole with an awl into the seal , screw in a wood screw and pull it out with a slide hammer or vise grips 

image.png

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34 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

I don't have a 450 ES , I have 450 foot shifter , but looking at this finche , #30 looks like the oil seal , I would drill or punch a hole with an awl into the seal , screw in a wood screw and pull it out with a slide hammer or vise grips 

image.png

I found this also and was think of doing the same thing. At first I wasn't sure if it was going to be a bigger job than that, but by the looks of the seal, it appears I can just pull it out and put a new one in. Thank you for your help.

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If you don't have alligator clips handy, you can cut a couple of little strips from an old credit card or insurance card or similar to hold the brushes in - see pic:

 

EE74255A-8FC0-4E26-8091-2D4B9F79ECC1.jpeg

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5 hours ago, Jemmons467 said:

I found this also and was think of doing the same thing. At first I wasn't sure if it was going to be a bigger job than that, but by the looks of the seal, it appears I can just pull it out and put a new one in. Thank you for your help.

Yep I just did this, its an easy job, I just pried mine out with small flat tip and oiled the new new one and pressed it back in with small socket

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3 minutes ago, AKATV said:

Yep I just did this, its an easy job, I just pried mine out with small flat tip and oiled the new new one and pressed it back in with small socket

Thank you for the info. Yah I managed to break my control motor so I am now waiting for a new one to come in as well. What kind of grease did you use after? I have a multipurpose moly grease. This is what it looked like when I pulled the motor, zero grease.20210102_115137.jpg

20210102_144536.jpg

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I just use the same-some moly grease that I had on hand
That old factory stuff in there is like tar when it hardens
Mine shifts well down to below zero temps, so I think you'll be good
A lot of people seem to like white lithium grease too
Either someone cleaned your gears already or the oil leaking in washed the old gunk away
Let us know how it all goes

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 I read that post too, and I agree it is excellent information for any ES owner

 

For me so far, I have tried all 3 grease types- synthetic, moly,  and lithium grease, in the reduction gears on ES models  ( only early Rancher 350 and Foreman 450)

My thought were in hot riding condition, the greases would not gum up shifting but would be thin out a bit and not be an issue

I figured the biggest stumbling factor, especially in cold climate riding, would be any thickening or slight hardening of the grease in extreme cold temperature
I tried them in Winter temps here in Alaska at temps ranging from 30 degrees F down to -20 F
No differences at all..... although they all shift a little slower once you get below 10 degrees, no hangups or missed gears though
At low temps its always wise to let things warm up and make sure  the battery is in good shape (and charging system)
Once you clean out that old original factory Gunk/Tar,  I think whether you use moly, lithium or synthetic-is  your own personal preference
If I had to wager a guess I bet SOME of the ES shift problems are also due to a weak, battery especially in colder temps, from my experience people dont want to spend 100+ on a new battery 
One other thing that really pays off, is to disassemble  the shift motor, clean it well, lube armature ends, and clean armature contacts- really makes a good difference on an old internally dirty shift motor
For me- a good battery with clean moly grease and I have had no issues whatsoever for both 00-03 Rancher 350ES and Foreman 98-04 450ES models
 Just my .02....
Me , I went with Walmart Moly grease-LOL..

I should ride with SuperTech stickers all over my machines...

Edited by AKATV
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I have noticed a slower shift when I am plowing and its cold, I live in Maine. The previous owner put this battery in and I feel it helps. Even on cold days my Foreman starts right up without issue. I just read through that writeup and will put it to use. I never thought of going through all the electrical connections wit dielectric grease.

20210102_172828.jpg

Edited by Jemmons467
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