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Jemmons467

2000 Foreman 450 es no shift

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30 minutes ago, Jemmons467 said:

Yah ill have to read through it again. I want something more aggressive than stock for all terrain riding but can get in the mud if need be

 

That was exactly what I wanted so I went with sedona mud rebel rt 26/9/12 and 26/11/12.  1 1/8" lugs

 

Lots of really good recommendations in that thread too.

 

E75F804D-A063-4FEF-8352-489F1FA0278F.jpeg

Edited by slowindown
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1 hour ago, slowindown said:

 

That was exactly what I wanted so I went with sedona mud rebel rt 26/9/12 and 26/11/12.  1 1/8" lugs

 

Lots of really good recommendations in that thread too.

 

E75F804D-A063-4FEF-8352-489F1FA0278F.jpeg

I know I'm getting off topic with tires but how do those ride?

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Seem pretty good to me. They don’t slide to the side when your in off camber situations nearly as bad as the stockers. They grip well. Go through wet stuff good. Clean out good. Ride pretty good since they’re radials. 

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20 hours ago, Jemmons467 said:

Yah ill have to read through it again. I want something more aggressive than stock for all terrain riding but can get in the mud if need be

 

i favor the mudlite at never had an issue hauling wood and they handle the mud / i see here pic (. right you are slow, theres a wealth of knowledge ... and many defrent opinion's , just depends on what terrain you'll be riding on. 

image.jpg

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UPDATE

So I took the front plastics off and found a zip tie a bit to tight which was pulling on the choke cable when I would turn. Took the tie off and no more stalling.

 

I reconnected my winch to the battery and took it for a ride and it is shifting great. So I dpnt believe it was the winch just a coincidence. Thanks again everyone for the help.

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thanks for the update, like it's been said ... one of the best descriptive .. diagnoses threads ... just shows details and more details is the only way to go. 

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Soooo, its not shifting again. I haven't riden it in a few days and it has been cold. I let it idle for a little bit and drove see if that might give it a charge. Ima take that battery out later and bring it inside and also check the voltage. 

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I am concerned with the china shift motor drawing excessive current and eventually frying the ECM. I would shop for a used shift motor and tear it down for a prep before installing it. Ain't gonna get any sleep 'till ya do....

 

EDIT: Check the shift motor fuse socket again to see if the fuse connectors have gotten hot and loosened up their grip on the fuse spades? A china shift motor may cause that to happen.

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1 hour ago, retro said:

I am concerned with the china shift motor drawing excessive current and eventually frying the ECM. I would shop for a used shift motor and tear it down for a prep before installing it. Ain't gonna get any sleep 'till ya do....

 

EDIT: Check the shift motor fuse socket again to see if the fuse connectors have gotten hot and loosened up their grip on the fuse spades? A china shift motor may cause that to happen.

I will take a look at it. So I have put 30 miles on it since I put the new angle sensor, shift motor and cleaned and greased every connection I could find. I was excited that ! thing was running and shifting great too. 

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I had one awhile back that had a bad voltage regulator and once the battery voltage dropped to certain level it would still run great -just stopped shifting

I checked battery voltages when ATV was off  and when it was running and voltage regulator was not working.

I put new one in and it has shifted great ever since. These ES machines like to have good batteries and voltage regulators for sure

Edited by AKATV
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Ok I put the battery back in and checked the voltage.

12.65v battery in and not on

12.53v key on not running

14.65v at idle

14.30v revving engine 1/4ish throttle.

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Thanks for the details

your voltage regulator looks like it’s operating properly so that’s definitely not the issue although I would expect it to be higher at 1/4 rev than at idle?

Is it still not shifting properly with a fully charged battery at this time?

Keep in mind what retro said about above excessive draw using a cheap China shift motor It would be a shame and expensive to burn up the ECM

If it’s possible, see if you can measure the draw when using the shift motor

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6 minutes ago, AKATV said:

Thanks for the details

your voltage regulator looks like it’s operating properly so that’s definitely not the issue although I would expect it to be higher at 1/4 rev than at idle?

Is it still not shifting properly with a fully charged battery at this time?

Keep in mind what retro said about above excessive draw using a cheap China shift motor It would be a shame and expensive to burn up the ECM

If it’s possible, see if you can measure the draw when using the shift motor

I tried shifting it and nothing. I did hit the shift buttons up and down while holding the voltmeter on the battery and there was no change. 

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I agree with AKATV, your charging system is working fine and your battery is probably OK too. I would look for a bad connection again beginning with the motor fuse. Then check the shift switches & plug in case those are not working. Then open and close harness plugs one at a time (beginning with the ECM connector) looking for one that may be unreliable. This shift issue seems to be repeating intermittently and since the first go 'round left ya wondering what was the cause, may have to yank the fenders off again. Measure shift motor amps draw at the shift motor fuse socket once ya find the fault.

 

 

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21 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

that's not oem ... must be something the PO added, i would check see where the wires tap in to oem wire harness. 

Thank you, I unplugged the fuse and it started shifting again. I will trace the connections and get rid of it

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Boy that is good news 

I really wonder what that fuse goes to now and why it was there

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20210124_153001.jpg20210124_153013.jpgThe black and white wire is where the original owner had the winch switch wired to for power, I removed the wire awhile ago when I put my new winch in. Does the current connection look OE to you? 

Edited by Jemmons467

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glad to help, yeah, I'd like to know too. that's a strange one. glad it's back shifting again, this is what burns me about people hacking into the wire harness , and not knowing what there doing!!! 

Edited by _Wilson_™
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Ok, the fuse goes into the large red/white wire in the main relay on one end and the positive side of the starter solenoid.

20210124_170330.jpg

 

 

Now do these red wires look like they should? From the 30 amp fuse one wire splits into two, one running to the positive battery terminal and the other split goes into the fuse box. The second none split looks like it goes right to the wiring harness.

20210124_171022.jpg

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3 hours ago, Jemmons467 said:

The black and white wire is where the original owner had the winch switch wired to for power, I removed the wire awhile ago when I put my new winch in. Does the current connection look OE to you?

 

Yes, that is an OEM Connector coming from the accessory fuse in the fuse box and going to the accessory socket. Pull that open & dielectric grease it. Also permanently seal & insulate the bare wire section of that wire so that oxygen & moisture/water cannot corrode the copper wire.

 

The inline fuse is definitely your shift motor problem. That Red/White wire is suppose to come from the shift motor fuse in the fuse box and go to that engine relay where it continues to the ECM, supplying power for the shift motor. See the section of the wiring where orange arrows are pointing. Rip that foolishness out of there and put that big wire back to stock using a soldering iron to permanently repair that high current carrying wire.

 

Congrats that ya finally found your problem!!! :-)

 

shift-motor-supply.png

 

 

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47 minutes ago, retro said:

 

Yes, that is an OEM Connector coming from the accessory fuse in the fuse box and going to the accessory socket. Pull that open & dielectric grease it. Also permanently seal & insulate the bare wire section of that wire so that oxygen & moisture/water cannot corrode the copper wire.

 

The inline fuse is definitely your shift motor problem. That Red/White wire is suppose to come from the shift motor fuse in the fuse box and go to that engine relay where it continues to the ECM, supplying power for the shift motor. See the section of the wiring where orange arrows are pointing. Rip that foolishness out of there and put that big wire back to stock using a soldering iron to permanently repair that high current carrying wire.

 

Congrats that ya finally found your problem!!! 🙂

 

shift-motor-supply.png

 

 

Thank you. I have some heat shrink tubes I'll use on the black and white wire.

Ok, so the red white should not be attached to the starter solenoid at all? Ok great.

Now it needs to be removed from it and attached to the shift motor fuse, now where is that located? I know the black box with the lights and ignition and what not, but not the shift motor fuse. I prob do but can't tell from the diagram. Again thank you for the help.

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You're welcome! I'm pretty happy that ya found that mess! The shift motor fuse is inside the fuse box. The fuse is labelled "Motor" (look inside the fuse box lid) and it's a 30 amp. You'll have to take the fuse box off and flip it over to find that wire exiting the bottom of the box.

 

If the Yellow/Red wire going to the ECM from the engine relay is cobbled up you'll have to fix that as well. Hope ya have some soldering equipment so you can do quality permanent repairs. You can seal your solder joints with silicone gasket maker then slide shrink tubing over them. Oxygen is corrosive so ya gotta seal 'em up tight.

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