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freebo86

Adjusted Valves runs and sounds poorly

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3 hours ago, freebo86 said:

What’s the front crankcase cover torque specs? Manual shows no torque values for the 13 bolts. 
 

 

Hi: See picture for your torque

Bolts.jpg

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1 hour ago, freebo86 said:

Im a little confused about the break in that I should do once this is complete. Can someone enlighten me a bit on that and oil recommendations? I guess everyone says Conventional Oil but which oil is that?

 

Conventional motor oils are refined from crude oil extracted from the earth. So are crude-based.... synthetics are polymer chains (esters generally) created by chemical processes.

 

Are you installing a new cylinder, or did you have your cylinder rebored & honed to fit an oversize piston kit?

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9 hours ago, retro said:

 

Conventional motor oils are refined from crude oil extracted from the earth. So are crude-based.... synthetics are polymer chains (esters generally) created by chemical processes.

 

Are you installing a new cylinder, or did you have your cylinder rebored & honed to fit an oversize piston kit?

 

LOL you first sentence confused me even more! But my cylinder is being bored and honed, being done today actually.

Oversize OEM Honda piston and rings.

Edited by freebo86
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I think if I were you I would stay with OEM Honda oil  

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1 hour ago, freebo86 said:

But my cylinder is being bored and honed, being done today actually.

Oversize OEM Honda piston and rings.

 

Great! Be sure to super-scrub the bore in hot, soapy water before you oil it up and install the topend.

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I am not scare to use non-Honda oil , but when it comes to washing the jug after a bore job I am scared of the grit  ,  I  fill the sink with hot water and Dawn , wash and rinse it good , blow it off with air , wash it again in the Dawn , blow if off again , then I spray part and brake cleaner on it and blow it off again , then wipe a film of motor oil on the cylinder wall 

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19 minutes ago, retro said:

 

Great! Be sure to super-scrub the bore in hot, soapy water before you oil it up and install the topend.

and make sure you rinse the soap and dry the water off and oil the cylinder pronto so you don't get any rust.

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I use Rotella T4 for break in, and then run the synthetic Rotella T6 after break in.

 

The magic words you're looking for are "JASO MA" on the bottle.  If the oil weight is in the specified range (30 or 40 weight) and it is JASO MA rated, you can use it.

 

Rotella is cheap, easy to find, and works great in all my Hondas.  The T5 synthetic blend does NOT have JASO MA on the bottle, but the T4 in the white jug, and the 5W40 T6 both do.

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2 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

I think if I were you I would stay with OEM Honda oil  

 

No faith in me? 😄 Haha.

 

40 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

I use Rotella T4 for break in, and then run the synthetic Rotella T6 after break in.

 

The magic words you're looking for are "JASO MA" on the bottle.  If the oil weight is in the specified range (30 or 40 weight) and it is JASO MA rated, you can use it.

 

Rotella is cheap, easy to find, and works great in all my Hondas.  The T5 synthetic blend does NOT have JASO MA on the bottle, but the T4 in the white jug, and the 5W40 T6 both do.

 

Thanks! Well that Rotella stuff T4 is cheaper than OEM GN4 from Honda. Almost $15 and more quantity oil for the money. If I can use this stuff for my Break-In I'd be happy save at least a couple of bucks.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/rotella-t4-conventional-diesel-engine-oil-15w40-5-l-0287930p.html#srp

 

Any issue in sticking with Conventional even after the fact or do I want to then switch to synthetic?

 

1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

I am not scare to use non-Honda oil , but when it comes to washing the jug after a bore job I am scared of the grit  ,  I  fill the sink with hot water and Dawn , wash and rinse it good , blow it off with air , wash it again in the Dawn , blow if off again , then I spray part and brake cleaner on it and blow it off again , then wipe a film of motor oil on the cylinder wall 

 

Thanks for the tip. Super washing and cleaning will happen!

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Mine seem to shift easier and run cooler with the T6.  The T4 works fine though, so pick your poison.

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Freebo ,

Not that I don't have faith in you , I just don't want something to not go right for you and the oil be a reason for bickering about it , LOL 

 

I can't believe how much you'll have to pay for Rotella up in the Great White North , that link you posted was like $37 for 5 liters , which is $7.40 a liter , I am gettingT4 for $15 a gallon , I think a gallon is about 3.75 liters , which is $4 a liter  ,  that's  1/2 price ----  What's does  Honda oil go for up there ?  ----   $10 a liter would be my guess 

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15 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

Freebo ,

Not that I don't have faith in you , I just don't want something to not go right for you and the oil be a reason for bickering about it , LOL 

 

I can't believe how much you'll have to pay for Rotella up in the Great White North , that link you posted was like $37 for 5 liters , which is $7.40 a liter , I am gettingT4 for $15 a gallon , I think a gallon is about 3.75 liters , which is $4 a liter  ,  that's  1/2 price ----  What's does  Honda oil go for up there ?  ----   $10 a liter would be my guess 

 

Hehe.

 

That Rotella is $32 plus tax for 5L. That is actually somewhat cheap for this quantity based on everyday prices. May dip ON SALE for $25/5L.

GN4 I think they want $39 for 3.78L (1gallon) - your guess of 10$/L is close.

 

Keep in mind this is Canadian funds I'm referencing. This is the land of cheap Medicare not oil or gas.

 

Side note; dropped the cylinder off should have it hopefully later this week. Shop is too busy for a quick turn around.

Edited by freebo86

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I'll pay you the difference to run Honda oil , so I don't have to hear it , if , heaven forbid , it fails , LOL 

 

You better stock up on oil , cause I think it is going to make a dramatic price increase  in the not too far future , might be a better investment than gold , buy a 18 wheeler full !!!!  ----  The Green New Deal is coming to a Providence near you soon 

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1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

I'll pay you the difference to run Honda oil , so I don't have to hear it , if , heaven forbid , it fails , LOL 

 

You better stock up on oil , cause I think it is going to make a dramatic price increase  in the not too far future , might be a better investment than gold , buy a 18 wheeler full !!!!  ----  The Green New Deal is coming to a Providence near you soon 

 

Your stressing me out! I'm so excited to fire this thing up, but at the same time frightened to what actually occurs.

 

is GN4 Synthetic or Conventional?

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4 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

I'll pay you the difference to run Honda oil , so I don't have to hear it , if , heaven forbid , it fails , LOL 

 

You better stock up on oil , cause I think it is going to make a dramatic price increase  in the not too far future , might be a better investment than gold , buy a 18 wheeler full !!!!  ----  The Green New Deal is coming to a Providence near you soon 

 

2 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

conventional, same as rotella t4. both are great oils.


Maybe just go with Rotella then? I’ll be able to get 2 changes out of that 5L jug. Price seems right, @Fishfiles is a believer. @retro hasn’t seen anything yet on oil might be a touchy topic for him! 

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i wouldn't be worried about using rotella at all, i just went with gn4 ... because of habit, but rotella goes in every other 4 stroke i have both diesel and gas engines, i would imagine rotella would be a located at a much cheeper price, and many other locations then gn4 would be. i get gn4 at little Johnny's cycle shop, the only other place, is cycle athority in columbia, or order it online, where as rotella is carried by most automotive,stores  and truck stops, plus Wally World. 

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6 hours ago, freebo86 said:

@retro hasn’t seen anything yet on oil might be a touchy topic for him!

 

Actually Rotella (both T4 & T6) are the only 4 stroke motor oils that I buy and keep in stock. I run Rotella in every 4 stroke motor that I own. I didn't want to knock your choice of motor oil though.... so I kept my mouth shut. :-)

 

FYI, I run red synthetic oils in all of my two-stroke motors. Two different oils, both are red, both are the same brand name. :-)

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After closing inspection of the Rotella link I posted the T4 does NOT have JASO MA on the bottle...

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40 minutes ago, freebo86 said:

After closing inspection of the Rotella link I posted the T4 does NOT have JASO MA on the bottle...

 

Here we go , an oil thread !!!! Going to pop some corn , BRB !!!! 

 

Wish I had the link to my synopsis of oil labels ,  the code is about money , pay the $10 a liter and that code will protect you and me !!! 

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3 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

 

Here we go , an oil thread !!!! Going to pop some corn , BRB !!!! 

 

Wish I had the link to my synopsis of oil labels ,  the code is about money , pay the $10 a liter and that code will protect you and me !!! 

 

No no. Were keeping this a fixing thread lol not Oil. I gotta fire this thing up! 

 

Checked the official Shell website. It's good. Plus WallyWorld is $24 for that same jug. So Rotella it will be. Gotta save some funds these days.

image.png

Edited by freebo86
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When @Jeep said the Rotella had markings ^^^ , I didn't say anything , I know it use to not have the code , thought maybe they were added in recent times ----  forget about the code , Shell has to pay for those codes to be on their bottle , re-certified  every year which makes the price go up , they have many blends , so one of their blends will have the codes , doesn't mean that other blends don't meet the standards , Rotella  works ---- down here 90% of the people you talk with use Rotella  

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1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

When @Jeep said the Rotella had markings ^^^ , I didn't say anything , I know it use to not have the code , thought maybe they were added in recent times ----  forget about the code , Shell has to pay for those codes to be on their bottle , re-certified  every year which makes the price go up , they have many blends , so one of their blends will have the codes , doesn't mean that other blends don't meet the standards , Rotella  works ---- down here 90% of the people you talk with use Rotella  

 

When I started using it, the T4 said it was JASO MA rated.  The T6 did also.  The T5 syn blend did not, but guys over on the BITOG forums said it too is good to go, but not marked as such.

 

As you said, they have to pay to certify their oil, so they might not do it every year for every oil.

 

Of course, the scary part of that is, what if they change the T4 where it's not longer JASO approved, and we just assume it's deleted off of the bottle to save them money, when in reality it is no longer wet clutch safe?

 

Just figured I'd further muddy the waters in the always-entertaining oil debates.

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