Goober 1,555 Posted March 19, 2021 (edited) I rode mine around in first or second gear for about 10 minutes To get the fan to come on. wear your ear plugs! Edited March 19, 2021 by Goober 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freebo86 291 Posted March 19, 2021 17 minutes ago, Goober said: I rode mine around in first or second gear for about 10 minutes To get the fan to come on. wear your ear plugs! Good point! I'm honestly not concerned about the fan, the fan worked and the fan comes on and off. My temp switch wasn't in spec before, so the fan operation wasn't running when maybe it needed too. With the new switch it's going to be within spec and will come on just sooner rather then later, I'm pretty confident on that already. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tim-ANC 202 Posted March 19, 2021 Loosening that tight exhaust valve can't hurt. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freebo86 291 Posted March 19, 2021 19 minutes ago, Tim-ANC said: Loosening that tight exhaust valve can't hurt. I did that last night, set the exhaust to .007, intake .006. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,566 Posted March 19, 2021 7 hours ago, freebo86 said: Fresh Oil + new Filter how did the old break in oil look ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freebo86 291 Posted March 19, 2021 2 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said: how did the old break in oil look ? Oil looked dark. No metal shavings, checked the filter over too looked good. Replaced it just to be safe. Filled it back up with Rotella again last night. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,566 Posted March 19, 2021 good deal, so now we know there's nothing wrong with engine, except the exhaust valves changing, which you've corrected, so a couple more things off the list 7 hours ago, freebo86 said: The carb is is the correct number, I had it crossed with @retro and confirmed it's the right VE #. It's a few pages back. Internals were rebuilt with a new Shindy kit. Well fired it up last night, runs like a top of course. Took it around the block, no issues. Story of my life, but again it was cool. I can't really stretch its legs or get it to super operating temps good without trailering it to trail access. Which it was getting late last night so I didn't have a chance. I don't want to just let it sit there and IDLE forever as I know it's not good for it just to get it to temp. you don't have to go for a ride to bring the engine up to running temps without having the engine idling you could just start it, and feather the throttle no more rpm then you would do riding, plus sitting still the engine would warm quicker, that's how i do my 97 when it's super cold out, also would give a chance to make another video. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tim-ANC 202 Posted March 20, 2021 I think today is Freebo's big ride. Fingers crossed. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goober 1,555 Posted March 20, 2021 I read about a similar problem that @retro helped solve; the OP replaced the large fuse and problem hot start stopped 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,566 Posted March 20, 2021 i believe @Jemmons467 but it was a es shifting problem, but still electrical, looks to me like it would act up hot or cold if it was a fuse, or fuse holder, he ended up getting it fixed, but to test before the repair he pulled the fuse and put in back in, and it started shifting again, turns out it was a bad fuse holder. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted March 21, 2021 Calling @freebo86 , How did that test ride go yesterday ? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tim-ANC 202 Posted March 21, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, Fishfiles said: Calling @freebo86 , How did that test ride go yesterday ? Hope he's not stranded in the woods. Or maybe he impressed that lady friend with his badass 4 wheeler and, well, otherwise engaged this morning 😆 Edited March 21, 2021 by Tim-ANC 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jemmons467 179 Posted March 21, 2021 On 3/20/2021 at 11:25 AM, _Wilson_™ said: i believe @Jemmons467 but it was a es shifting problem, but still electrical, looks to me like it would act up hot or cold if it was a fuse, or fuse holder, he ended up getting it fixed, but to test before the repair he pulled the fuse and put in back in, and it started shifting again, turns out it was a bad fuse holder. Just spent the day taking down a 20x32 above ground pool so I am too tired to read the whole thread haha. Yes I did figure out me electrical issue for shifting. It ended up being the large fuse right off the battery, it would get hot, expand and not work. I replaced the fuse and it has been shifting great since. Currently sitting on jackstands due to a flat but still shifts haha. 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freebo86 291 Posted March 22, 2021 (edited) Haha! I went out with two other buddies so I was coming back with a bike or without it. Good news, I'm 99.9% sure I solved my issue.. . Read the below carefully, maybe even twice to understand whats going on and what actually solved it. To recap. Thursday night I loosened the exhaust valve to .007. As I stated a few posts earlier I grabbed a chinesium carburator from a colleague (for testing purposes). I adjusted the valves, and installed the Chinese carb and the machine fired up (machine was cold). It ran okay, if I let off the throttle it would fart and burp out the exhaust. I figured its the air/fuel setting on the carb as I found out that Chinese carb was actually for a 400 machine.. Anyways.. I left the bike that night be as it was getting late. Friday I came home from work and figured, no point in keeping that Chinese carb on there. Going to reinstall my own OEM one, need to put all the other plastics back on for Saturdays trip. As I am taking the Chinese carb off.. I noticed the the choke (my OEM) on my machine had seen better days, I compared it to the Chinese one that came with the Chinese carburetor that I left still in the box because I was too lazy to swap the choke plunger Thursday. I noticed the chinese choke plunger had a much better condition o-ring.. I figured what the !. I'll take the chinese choke plunger, install it on my cable inside my carb. Connected it all up, machine was cold, I figured ! its going to crank over. Crank crank no fire. So I'm standing there now with the exact same symptoms with a cold machine like I've had when its warm. What the !! 😭 What's different? I'm looking over the bike, try to crank again no luck. Thinking to myself what did I change... AHHHH! The chinese choke plunger. I figured I'll unscrew the plunger out completely from the housing to see what happens, and the bike fires on the first instant, runs like crap but it fired. Hmm.. I take the plunger put it back in into the housing.. no fire. If the plunger is in the housing and if the choke is pulled in or out it won't fire. If I remove it from the carburetor it fires. After closer examination the chinese plunger is slightly different than the OEM one and it didn't even really fit correctly inside my carb. So I thought what' the chances of my OEM plunger actually being faulty? Because I am seeing the exact same symptoms now with a cold machine as I did with a warm one. Called the dealer saturday morning before my trip, they had the plunger in stock. Went and bought it, $90. 😡😱 At this point.. whats another $90. Came home, installed the new OEM plunger, after a bit of feathering with the throttle and playing with the choke knob of how far its pulled in or out I realized how sensitive the choke is - bike started up and ran great. Loaded the bike and off we went, I've put over 100miles in the last two days (the weather was 7 Celsius and 12 Celsius), with numerous pit stops (turning the bike off) and the bike started every single time. Not a single hiccup. every single time we'd stop I thought to myself this is the end of my trip, it won't fire when were ready to leave.. NOPE it started. So the whole starting when warm issue I believe was my plunger. It was not seating/sealing and working as it should regardless of the actual knob position (IN or OUT). Conclusion when the bike was cold it was a lot more forgiving on starting with the old OEM plunger even thought it operated poorly and incorrectly. However, when the bike warmed up.. the choke had a much more important role to play and as it wasn't properly working/sealing so it wouldn't allow the the bike to start. After some more miles, I will pull the valve cover again and set the exhaust side to .006 to prove my theory. But I think it's safe to say its the plunger, because the bike wasn't starting Friday after I swapped the plungers (Chinese and OEM) even thought it was cold engine with the .007 gap on the exhaust so the plunger was affecting it. Edited March 22, 2021 by freebo86 10 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,566 Posted March 22, 2021 congrats on finding the issue! i don't recall how many people mentioned maybe a choke issue, but would explain the wet soot colored spark plug, glad she's fixed now, fresh rebuilt engine, starting issue fixed, your all set to ride. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcsman 1,382 Posted March 22, 2021 You da man freebo, so happy you have it running and starting.... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheeler 2,525 Posted March 22, 2021 Congrats buddy. Glad u did what u did. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tim-ANC 202 Posted March 22, 2021 (facepalm) choke plunger. @freebo86 excellent troubleshooting! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
THH 295 Posted March 22, 2021 Congrats @freebo86, Great job not giving up and figuring it out!! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted March 22, 2021 Good deal ! I am proud of you ---- We call that " Resilience " down here .... Never give up no matter how bad it seems !!!! --- 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goober 1,555 Posted March 22, 2021 👍🏻 to be fair you accomplished quite a bit—you were all in on this one. when I rebuild a carb I always replace the choke valve and the primer plunger. I’m very protective of that primer channel which is why i don't soak my carbs. If you didn’t replace the primer plunger, you might squirt a little trash in your carb next time you use it. Well now did you ever do the rest of the service? Here’s my bud’s rig up on my bike lift getting new brake fluid 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tim-ANC 202 Posted March 22, 2021 Freebo, pics of the ride please. I've been shut in wrenchin all winter. Want to see the fruits of someone's labor. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,605 Posted March 22, 2021 Awesome news. No better feeling than finally figuring it out! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freebo86 291 Posted March 22, 2021 3 hours ago, Goober said: 👍🏻 to be fair you accomplished quite a bit—you were all in on this one. when I rebuild a carb I always replace the choke valve and the primer plunger. I’m very protective of that primer channel which is why i don't soak my carbs. If you didn’t replace the primer plunger, you might squirt a little trash in your carb next time you use it. Well now did you ever do the rest of the service? Here’s my bud’s rig up on my bike lift getting new brake fluid Hmm, brake fluid never crossed my list! The PO installed Disc Brakes in the front, may be worth to replace the fluid. 3 hours ago, Tim-ANC said: Freebo, pics of the ride please. I've been shut in wrenchin all winter. Want to see the fruits of someone's labor. @Tim-ANC I'll direct you to this thread of mine which was started in ambition originally until the mechanical failures started to take over lol! The last thing I did was about a month ago trying to refreshed the plastics.. turned out okay. But looked like they fade away again 😞 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
