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freebo86

Adjusted Valves runs and sounds poorly

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Yes, heads all interchange.


Did you mic the lobes on that cam?  Looks good, but while you're sitting around waiting on parts.......

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14 hours ago, bcsman said:

Yes from memory you dont turn the slotted part, there should be a small screw head down inside there...

 

When fully retracted it should lock in place so the chain can be installed , then release for the tension...

 

I forget quick evidently.

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I can't recall who I shipped mine to to get it bored out. It came with the gasket kit, if i recall...which was head gasket and other gaskets needed. I might be wrong. 

 

With how far you have it torn down...you'll need a full gasket kit anyway. May as well just buy a full kit Only one you likely won't need is the central case gasket if you don't split it.

 

 

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1 hour ago, freebo86 said:

I did just stumble on this. What's the experts say for the condition of it?

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-TRX-450-S-Foreman-Engine-Cylinder-Head-Culas-Assembly/224260806448?hash=item3436fc5730:g:MLkAAOSwdytfxySA

 

EDIT: Nm. for 60$ more I just ordered a brand new head.

 

 

 

It is amazing how much the parts swing around in priice. Some think they have gold, some sell reasonable.

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2 hours ago, freebo86 said:

I did just stumble on this. What's the experts say for the condition of it?

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-TRX-450-S-Foreman-Engine-Cylinder-Head-Culas-Assembly/224260806448?hash=item3436fc5730:g:MLkAAOSwdytfxySA

 

EDIT: Nm. for 60$ more I just ordered a brand new head.

 

 

Good move not going with that head , the studs on that e-bay head are messed up 

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So cleaned the front crank case cover. Loosened and lubed up the clutch adjusting screw.

 

Anything else while this stuff is apart I can clean, blow air through etc? I cleaned out the oil filter area, and blew air through where the oil cooler lines connects too. Cleaned up the two o-rings and will add some o-ring sealant to those as well prior to reinstallation everything.

 

I've cleaned the gaskets on both the bottom end for the jug, the case gasket is removed both from engine side and cover side.

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man, i'm not even going to back read to see if i even posted in this thread ?..lol. i read enough to make me just tell you this: pull the front cover ( drain the oil first ! ) , remove the pull starter from the back so you can get at the 17mm bolt on the pull starter cage. remove the site plug from the right hand side of engine, its a allen head plug. remove the fuel tank, heat shield , remove both valve adjustment caps to access the intake and exhaust valve rockers. if the engine is still in the frame ?, this work will be a tad longer and harder to see parts. so i am guessing engine is in frame ?. with front cover off, look at the top of the cam sprocket, above it, you will see a triangle section of the case pointing down, now look on the cam sprocket, it has a punch mark stamped near the outside of the teeth. ok, now go to the rear with a 17mm socket and ratchet, look at the pull starter cage, notice it has a line running from the front to the back towards the engine on one of the tangs ?, right behind the starter cage on the cover, there is raised triangle with a point facing the center of the cage, rotate the starter cage until the line on the tang lines up with the triangle on the engine case, it may want to flip on way or the other ?, this is normal, because you have the piston on TDC. once this is done, go to the front of the engine, and look at the cam sprocket punch mark, it should be lined right under the triangle part of the case pointing down ?, also look to see if the cam chain is stretched ?. if all this is good ?, go to the sight hole ( allen head cap hole ), with a flashlight, look inside the hole to the edge of the flywheel, you should see the letter T stamped on the flywheel right inside there ?, now make sure this letter T is lined up to the line in the threads of the hole ?, every one of these marks i am telling you is a timing mark..they ALL must line up !, if they do not ?, chances are, your cam chain has jumped a tooth ?, or stretched ?, or the keyway is sheered on the flywheel ?. if you are in the states ?, pm me, give me your cell number, i'll walk you through this..DO NOT POST YOUR CELL NUMBER OUT IN THE OPEN IN THREADS !.

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On 2/26/2021 at 6:06 PM, jdlmodelt said:

Or have a machinist install a new seat. I wish you were out here. my guy does stuff for way too cheap.

 

you can not buy valve seats for these, you have to buy a whole new head. now..valve guides you can buy/replace..but not the seats.

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read that you found a bad seat, problem solved so far !. still follow my post ^^ on how to set, check timing.

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6 hours ago, shadetree said:

you can not buy valve seats for these, you have to buy a whole new head. now..valve guides you can buy/replace..but not the seats.

He's already sourcing a replacement head so, yep, read a few posts back to get caught up. lol! I know, it sucks to read back through them when it is this long after roughly a month of dialog. But half of what you spent time writing was old news. I'm giving you some joking Mr. Moderator. 🙂

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11 minutes ago, jdlmodelt said:

He's already sourcing a replacement head so, yep, read a few posts back to get caught up. lol! I know, it sucks to read back through them when it is this long after roughly a month of dialog. But half of what you spent time writing was old news. I'm giving you some joking Mr. Moderator. 🙂

haha..no worries. least now i know where i chimed in on huh ?..lol.

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Lol! This posting has been a constant whirlwind! I went back and read them all just to make sure I was caught up. He will have a good runner when He's done. I was dissapointed in how much I had to replace on my old 88 TRX350D after purchasing from the orriginal owner. Made me wonder what service he even had done on it over 33 years. It runs great now, but, I was getting pretty concerned when certain parts were not even available new for it anymore. No more ATV's over 20 years old from now on.

 

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It wa a whirlwind of back and forth lol! I’m nervous but also excited to fire this thing up when it’s done to hear and feel the difference!
 

Well new DID chain arrived today, compared it to my existing one. Same length so mine didnt really stretch. Tomorrow hoping to start assembling the front portion where chain, cam, clutches are to close the front cover back. 
 

Have a feeling that end cylinder head will take a while to arrive.. 

 

 

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Update.. haven't been able to get out to start assembling its been real cold the past few days.

 

Hoping that maybe Sunday the front crank cover and components can be put back in place.

 

 

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good question, should be  some good answers,  i only use honda oem filters myself. always have, always will. 

Edited by _Wilson_™

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Figured I ask as with the engine rebuild imagine id be doing one or two oil changes more frequent than usual 

Edited by freebo86

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Today cam, chain and all else front portion is going back on. Hopefully I set the timing right lol

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I buy Donaldson oil filters for $5 they come with the large o-ring  , lucky to have a dealer in New Orleans where I go for equipment filters ,  if I run low on stock , I have bought Honda filters local the dealership , but I have never bought  a quart of oil from Honda in my life , Shell Rotella T4 is all I use in everything I own 

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What’s the front crankcase cover torque specs? Manual shows no torque values for the 13 bolts. 
 

 

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For break in period, I use cheap oil filters then switch to OEM or K&N

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8 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

I buy Donaldson oil filters for $5 they come with the large o-ring  , lucky to have a dealer in New Orleans where I go for equipment filters ,  if I run low on stock , I have bought Honda filters local the dealership , but I have never bought  a quart of oil from Honda in my life , Shell Rotella T4 is all I use in everything I own 


You use Diesel oil in the ATV?

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17 minutes ago, freebo86 said:


You use Diesel oil in the ATV?

What makes you think Rotella is only for diesel engines 

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