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Tim-ANC

Polaris axles

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My son's 2007 500 Sportsman rear axle failed. The inner CV housing is held together by a spring clip retainer (second pic). This retainer is worn out and will not retain the knuckle. They are after market heavy duty installed by a PO. No markings on them at all, hence I can't find the correct re-build kit for them.

 

First pic, I bought a used axle off another Sportsman. It too is non-OEM. This knuckle is retained by stakes in the housing. The knuckle is not removable without grinding out the stakes. Which method is better? How does Honda retain the knuckles? I've not had a Honda axle apart.

 

20210129_055123 (2)_LI.jpg

 

20210129_055309 (2).jpg

 

Edited by Tim-ANC

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I have never seen anything done like that before -- but I have seen the retainer spot welded to hold it in place -- they are very costly to replace

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There is a groove inside the housing the ring is supposed to sit in under tension.

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On 1/29/2021 at 7:48 PM, Tim-ANC said:

There is a groove inside the housing the ring is supposed to sit in under tension.

old post here, but on most axles, inners will come apart, outside cv parts will not come apart.

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That housing with stakes actually had a spring clip on the shaft securing it to the knuckle. Had to beat the ! out of it with my rivet gun to get it to pop.

 

The axle with the clip holding the balls also came apart on the outboard end. Spring clip on the shaft. Wish I knew the brand to avoid. Poor design.

 

Edit: good to see ya Shade

 

Edited by Tim-ANC

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48 minutes ago, Tim-ANC said:

 Had to beat the ! out of it with my rivet gun to get it to pop.

 

 

 

Do you mean a air hammer and not a rivet gun ???? ---- 

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Rivet gun. Much more sophisticated than an air hammer.

 

 

20210320_084543.jpg

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16 hours ago, Tim-ANC said:

Rivet gun. Much more sophisticated than an air hammer.

 

 

20210320_084543.jpg

That's what I call a air hammer , this is what I call a  rivet gun image.png

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This rivet gun is used to install aluminum solid rivets in aircraft structure. With a die in the gun you place it firmly on the head then a bucking bar on the tail. Tap the head and the bucking bar smashes the tail. This fastens sheets of metal together. The gun is adjustable so you can vary the force. More for larger diameter rivets. Less for smaller. I'm an airplane mechanic and started my professional life pounding rivets.

 

I believe an air hammer is not adjustable but has more punch. Never used one because I've always had this.

 

What you have pictured is a blind rivet puller. They can also be pneumatic. 

 

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Bit of a long winded article:

 

https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraft-building/BuilderResources/while-youre-building/building-articles/metal/rivet-gun-notes-and-riveting-tips

 

"Selecting Your Rivet Gun
If you don't already own a suitable rivet gun and are in the market for one, check around with other builders before you buy. Be sure you get the type of gun you need. Don't goof and be fooled into buying an air hammer or air chisel just because the price is enticing. Although the thing might look like a rivet gun, and sound much like one, too, a rivet gun it ain't. The problem with an air hammer is that it simply hits too hard and too fast. If you try using it as a rivet gun, you will stand a good chance of denting and damaging the soft aluminum skin around the rivet you are attempting to drive (set).

A rivet gun's blows, on the other hand, are typically slower and you can exercise far better trigger control over its impact rate."

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It came apart. The outboard end was not removable. Changed both boots and slammed it back together.

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