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hawk

Rancher display swap

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I've acquired a deal I couldn't pass up on a 2002 Rancher (TRX350EF2).

 

The digital display is destroyed... cracked, rusted,  flooded with rain water over time.

 

The display is too expensive for me to replace and I can't find a used one.

 

Can i swap in a basic dash piece off an FM model?  Anyone done this?

 

thanks.

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Welcome to the forum!

As you have found, your machine will operate/shift with out the display being functional, so

I would imagine you could just put the FM style dash with reverse/neutral/oil lights on there

You will have to tie into the wiring harness for the ground inputs for each light, as they are wired into the speedometer for the LED lights

The FM style dash lights would be 12 volt bulbs versus the LEDs on speedometer which are 2.2-3.3 volts but those voltages are created within the speedometer

All the inputs from oil, neutral and reverse are switches that go to ground, so if you ran 12vdc to new lights on dash they would work fine

But with that being said I can most likely repair your speedometer or get a used one together for you

Post a few pictures if you want to give it a shot, if not I can tell you what wires are for each light

I sent you a message with my contact info as well

 

 

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Welcome to ATV Honda hawk! AKATV can fix ya up with a good display, you can see some of his work here:

 

 

And while you have your Rancher apart for a display repair is a good time to prep the ES system to make that trouble free for the next 20 years or so. Every Honda ES requires this:

 

 

Have fun!

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Hawk, glad you found us and yes the info given you will get your Honda in tip top shape.  

 

If you have time some evening we have a chat where we discuss all sorts of topics, feel free to stoop by.....

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Thanks guys.  I appreciate all the help.  AKATV,  I replied to your message before reading the posts.  If you have a used meter let me know the cost,  but most likely I will attempt to wire in the FM style to keep my cost down.

 

Regarding the ES, that is the last thing to fix.  The ES shifts sometimes.  When I disassembled the Honda down to the chassis I inspected the shift motor and the sensor.  The sensor was bad.  Rotating the knob yielded erratic changes in resistance.  But, I just kept rotating it back and forth to full range and it began to read correctly.  Saving a buck I installed it back in the Honda.  The shift motor just sounded weak when shifting, so I replaced it with an Amazon special. Of course, I did that before reading all the forum info.  So, i realize that could be lost money on the way to a Honda OEM motor down the road.  I pulled the gears behind the shift motor and inspected them.  Gears were good, but bearings in the small removeable case were very rough.  I had low confidence in my ability to remove the bearings from the shift plate.  So, I installed a new one along with the new shift motor.  Neither were Honda OEM parts.  With the bike in the air (Each wheel lifted (to avoid damage to the CV joints), I ran the bike on the lift.  The shift motor worked perfectly, but the left handle shift switches seem to stick.  I tried cleaning it, but there was no real improvement.  So, I left it working and went to next problem.  Then, I had to rebuild the front end.  I had to wait a while for some parts so the bike sat up for three weeks before finishing.  After sitting up all that time, the bike did not want to shift again.  So, I'm hoping the problem is either the sensor and/or the handlebar sticky switches.  I got both of those parts today (both Honda OEM).  However, my son is visiting and I'm helping him with a clutch swap-out (plus other parts in the trans and differential) on his car.  So the ATV is pushed to the side for a few days.

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Hawk just be aware you said it was sitting for 3 weeks then it would not shift properly again.  From experience you need a good battery well charged to make it work.  Depending on how good your battery is after sitting that long the charge may be below what the shift parts need.  Something to check before you go into anymore tracing.....

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Understood, thanks.  I kept watch on it.  It holds solid charge,  Stator charges well too. 

 

I pulled the sensor today while waiting for parts on my son's car.  The sensor ohm readings didn't even move this time until near the stop when it jump a little. Definitely not smooth.  Bad sensor for certain.    Oddly though.  I opened the Honda bag to put the new sensor on it.  Tested it for comparison and got.....wait for it...nothing.  ???  I'm reasonably qualified to handle this as I've been wrenching for 30 years.  The Honda sensor doesn't have a "stop" rotating in either direction like the bad sensor I took off.  No matter what scale I'm on there is never a reading besides "full resistance" or "1"     Yes, I even checked each pair to be sure my old eyes were wrong.  I went to three multimeters I have.  I double-checked it and triple checked it.  Then, ordered a cheap Amazon sensor 10min ago.  I'll call Partzilla in the morning to have them send out another Honda part. 

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Oddly, after ordering the new sensors I went back outside to look at the old broken one.  I sprayed electrical cleaner in the tiny hole while twisting it aggressively back and forth from stop to stop.  I blew it clear with compressed air.  I checked and it acted about 85% normal.  I did this about three more times and the readings were normal for a good sensor.  I put it back in the Honda and it shifted like a new one...go figure... 

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